16 January 2020

2019 Sewing Year in Review

It feels like I sewed more in 2019 than in 2018.  But when I compared sewn yardage, the totals are about the same.  I think the difference may be in the style and quality of the garments I made this year.  I seem to be picking more frilly/ruffly styles and patterns that have more-involved and/or new-to-me techniques.

[not pictured:  Jalie 2908 (jeans), 1 version of Burda 3-2009-131 (men's shirt)]

I made 28 wearable garments for me, 3 shirts for the dude, and a purse.  I've worn everything pictured at least once except for the distressed knit top (too baggy) and a bouclĂ© skirt (too small).

The Statistics

 
 Apparently, I really like making and wearing skirts.

 
Compared to last year, I sewed the exact amount of non-stash (purchased in 2019) fabric and about 10 more yards of stash (purchased before 2019) fabric.  If I sew more non-stash than stash, then I need to re-evaluate the stash and do a serious purge.  Or stop buying new fabric.  Or both.

 
Like last year, Jalie and Burda were clear winners.  The drafting for both companies is good, consistent, and works for me.  I didn't make as many muslins this year because I know my Burda/Jalie size and the adjustments needed for fitting.

Having documented my sewing over the years, I see that I definitely gravitate to a handful of companies.  I haven't sewn or bought a Vogue pattern in YEARS and rarely do I sew Butterick.  Again, this tells me I need to purge some patterns if I'm not going to use them.

Favorites

McCall's 7906:  When I saw this pattern making rounds in the sewing community, I had to have it.  It's got so many nice features:  pleats, button front, and pockets! 


A size-18 muslin showed that the waist was a bit too big.  So I removed 1/4" from the front pleats and added 1/2" as a full-seat adjustment.


The fabric and buttons were both purchased at Fabricville in Canada.  

Burda 6425:  I bought this pattern on a whim since it was on sale.  It's not my usual style, but something about the sleeve ties and elastic hem drew me in.  


  

I cut a straight 16 and didn't make any alterations as there was plenty of wearing ease.  I loved the top so much that I made two!  

I have never been a 'girly' girl, but something has changed in the last few years.  I want ruffles and ties and frills and pink.  Who is this person?! 

Burda 6426:  Again, this is a pattern that didn't initially catch my attention until I saw Maggie Elaine's version on Instagram.  It's a simple darted top with collar stand and collar. But it has tiny ruffles on the sleeve hem!  Aaaaaaaaaah!  

Here I'm wearing the shirt with McCall's 7906.  It was my favorite summer outfit!

New Look 6831 (top) & Burda 3-2007-117 (skirt):  What started out as a questionable purchase turned into my most loved outfit made this year.  Both fabrics were purchased secondhand at a local nonprofit fabric sale.  When I showed my friend Anne the floral fabric (a wonderful rayon challis), she said it didn't 'look like me.'  In other words, she didn't see it as something I would normally buy.  She was right, though I couldn't let it go and I'm so glad I didn't.  

The dude said the print looks like some granny's couch.  o_O  What does he know? =)


I also picked up New Look 6831 at the same fabric sale and decided this was the perfect fabric-pattern marriage.  I traced a size 16, made a 3/4" FBA and converted the darted front to shoulder princess seams.  I used six 1/2" buttons to close the front.
 
The sleeve hem is gathered with 3/8" elastic and that the necktie is part of the collar.  I can't get enough of this shirt! 
 
The skirt is made from a stretch wool crepe with the most beautiful hand and drape.  It's hard to see in the picture that the front has a large ruffle that connects to the front panel.  The pattern is form-fitting and hugs my hips in all the right ways.  L.O.V.E.

I made my usual full seat adjustment and followed the tips in this review for construction.

Honorable mention

Simplicity 8470:  I'll be honest:  when I finished this coat, I hated it because the front doesn't close in a way that conceals the zipper tape.  It's not clear in this picture, but when I wear it, the front pulls apart most horribly.  It's not a fit issue, it's a the-front-overlap-isn't-wide-enough issue.



So the coat lingered in my closet until October.  When the weather turned cold, but not cold enough for a down coat, I decided to give this coat a try.  And you know what?  I wore it every single day!  The front gape isn't as bad...well...actually it is pretty bad.  I just stopped worrying about it. =)  This coat is so warm and the gigantic hood keeps my head nice and toasty.  I guess it pays to let garments sit in the magic closet to marinate a bit.

Wadders/UFOs
  • Ottobre 5-2012-7  (tried three times; there will not be a fourth any time soon)
  • Burda 6426 (started a second version; fabric is too heavy)
  • Burda 9-2006-104 (pink trench coat with disaster interfacing is out for recycling)
  • Burda 5-2005-120 (love the pattern; major issues sewing the ruffles)
Menswear

For the first time, I made three shirts for the dude.  I normally do not sew for anyone else, but he's a keeper so he gets a pass.

The pattern is Burda 3-2009-131 and fits him nearly perfectly.  I made a 3/8" broad back adjustment (he swims a lot) and gave him a bit more width in the upper chest area.  He really likes them and is happy with both versions. I also made him a short-sleeved version of this pattern, but don't have any pictures. 

 2020 Sewing Intentions
  • reduce fabric buying:  I have enough and don't need more.  I intend to be more conscious of fabric purchases and return to tracking spending.  Overall I am purchasing less fabric compared to ten years (!!) ago.  Still, I can be more mindful and use more of what I have.
  • continue to use more stash:  This is always a goal.
  • Make Nine 2020:  I had so much fun with the challenge last year, I'm in again.  I have two plans in the works and need to settle on one.
  • Boob Camp:  Bra-makers Supply host a 5-day workshop on making bras.  While I successfully made a bra two years ago, I want to get better and make some of their other styles.  This is my sewing splurge for the year.
  • just sew it:  This has helped me to keep the sewjo going.  If I don't get too worked up about fit, I feel more relaxed and eager to sew.
  • just let it go:  Sometimes I feel bad about wasting fabric and supplies.  But when something isn't working and I've lost motivation, there's no point in trying to make it happen.  I intend to try a few times, but at few + 1, I'm done.
That's it for 2019.  Personal life often forces blogging about sewing to the end of the to-do list.  Time and energy permitting, I hope to continue to share my sewing adventures with the community.
 
I offer sincere thanks to all who stop by.  Happy new and peaceful new year.

L

24 December 2019

2019 Make Nine Results

It's been quiet in my little corner of the blogosphere.  I'm here and sewing, just not talking much about it here.  

The last post was on my 2019 Make Nine plan.  It's fitting (hah!) to make the first post since then on the same topic.  Cheers for continuity? =)

The results:

(I don't know why some pictures are weirdly cropped.)
 
I finished 5 of 9 and worked to some degree on 8 of 9.  Not bad, eh?

COMPLETED 
  • Burda 11-2017-106 (#2):  Love it and wore it a few times this year.
  • McCall's 7429 (#3):  I made two versions of this dress and wore them both a few times.
  • Blue Calla Boronia Bowler (#5):  After eight months, I finally finished this bag.  This probably deserves a separate blog post because whilst it wasn't difficult to sew, it took forever and required me to unpick the entire thing more than once.  Oof.
  • Jalie ÉlĂ©onore (#6):  I made two more versions of this and wear them all of the time.  I seriously love this pattern for its ease in construction and wear.
  • Butterick 6388 (#8):  Love this dress and intend to make at least one more.

ABANDONED
  • Burda 9-2006-104 (#1):  After losing a fight with the interfacing, I gave up.  I still want a trench coat with piping detail, but it's not happening with this fabric.
  • Ottobre 5-2012 #7 (#4):  I really tried to make this work, but the fabric was too stiff and the collar was abnormally large.  I corrected the collar and tried to make this pattern two more times.  Both were fails.  I don't think I'll try this a fourth time; there are just too many patterns out here to be fussing over this one.
  • Burda 5-2011-113 (#7):  This is the only pattern I didn't make or muslin.  I still like it, though have no immediate desire to make it.
  • Ottobre 5-2010 #11 (#9):  I made a muslin back in September and it looked promising.  I didn't make the coat because there is no back neck facing and I didn't feel like making one.  I don't understand coat patterns that are lined to the neck.  It has front facings, but no back facing?!  Why would you do that?  What is the advantage?  I really want this pea coat, so either I have to make a back facing...or...make a back facing.
I enjoyed working through the challenge this year.  Even though I sewed way more than nine garments, I liked having a goal of working specifically on patterns that I've wanted to make for some time.  I intend to participate in 2020 Make Nine and have a tentative plan ready to go.

L

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