2019 Make Nine Results

It's been quiet in my little corner of the blogosphere.  I'm here and sewing, just not talking much about it here.  

The last post was on my 2019 Make Nine plan.  It's fitting (hah!) to make the first post since then on the same topic.  Cheers for continuity? =)

The results:

(I don't know why some pictures are weirdly cropped.)

 

I finished 5 of 9 and worked to some degree on 8 of 9.  Not bad, eh?

COMPLETED 

• Burda 11-2017-106 (#2):  Love it and wore it a few times this year.

• McCall's 7429 (#3):  I made two versions of this dress and wore them both a few times.

• Blue Calla Boronia Bowler (#5):  After eight months, I finally finished this bag.  This probably deserves a separate blog post because whilst it wasn't difficult to sew, it took forever and required me to unpick the entire thing more than once.  Oof.

• Jalie Éléonore (#6):  I made two more versions of this and wear them all of the time.  I seriously love this pattern for its ease in construction and wear.

• Butterick 6388 (#8):  Love this dress and intend to make at least one more.

ABANDONED

• Burda 9-2006-104 (#1):  After losing a fight with the interfacing, I gave up.  I still want a trench coat with piping detail, but it's not happening with this fabric.

• Ottobre 5-2012 #7 (#4):  I really tried to make this work, but the fabric was too stiff and the collar was abnormally large.  I corrected the collar and tried to make this pattern two more times.  Both were fails.  I don't think I'll try this a fourth time; there are just too many patterns out here to be fussing over this one.

• Burda 5-2011-113 (#7):  This is the only pattern I didn't make or muslin.  I still like it, though have no immediate desire to make it.

• Ottobre 5-2010 #11 (#9):  I made a muslin back in September and it looked promising.  I didn't make the coat because there is no back neck facing and I didn't feel like making one.  I don't understand coat patterns that are lined to the neck.  It has front facings, but no back facing?!  Why would you do that?  What is the advantage?  I really want this pea coat, so either I have to make a back facing...or...make a back facing.

I enjoyed working through the challenge this year.  Even though I sewed way more than nine garments, I liked having a goal of working specifically on patterns that I've wanted to make for some time.  I intend to participate in 2020 Make Nine and have a tentative plan ready to go.

L

MakeNine 2019 progress

Despite the radio silence on my MakeNine 2019 plan, I have made some progress.  Of the nine items, I completed/worked on seven.  

COMPLETED 

• Burda 11-2017-106 (#2):  Love it and wore it a few times this winter.

•  McCall's 7429 (#3):  I made two versions of this dress and wore them both a couple of times.

• Jalie Éléonore (#6):  I made two more versions of this and wear them all of the time.  I seriously love this pattern for its ease in construction and wear.

• Butterick 6388 (#8):  I really like this dress, but I've yet to wear it.  Hmm...

STALLED

Blue Calla Patterns Boronia Bowler (#5):  I am *this* close to finishing the purse.  The problem is trying to find a zipper that opens from center to end.  First I ordered the wrong zipper from Wawak.  Then when I ordered the correct zipper, they mistakenly sent me the same wrong zipper from before.  Now that I finally have the right zipper, the two zipper pulls are not the same and it annoys me.  Waaah! 

So the purse sits in all its unfinished glory.

ABANDONED (for now)

Ottobre 5-2010 #11 (#4):  I swapped this pattern out for Ottobre 5-2012 #7 (shown below).

The collar is somehow too wide and extends beyond the button band.  I have to fix the collar pattern piece before I resume working on the shirt. The likelihood of that happening any time soon is pretty low. =/

Burda 9-2006-104 (top row #1):  I had high hopes for my second trench coat.  I even went all out and made my own bias tape and piping.  What ultimately tanked this project was the fusible interfacing.  I used an off-white lightweight interfacing thinking it would be better than the black weft interfacing that I love so much.  I was so wrong.

The interfacing puckers and separates with just a hint of steam.  This looks so bad and I have zero motivation to finish it.

Uggggh.  The pockets looked even worse with interfacing.

I really want to make this coat, but I'll have to start over with better interfacing.  And so begins the search for light pink twill!

STILL PART OF THE PLAN

Burda 5-2011-113 (#7):  I still like this jacket even though I have nothing to wear with it.  Maybe I'll make a leather skirt or something.

Ottobre 5-2010 #11 (#9):  I hope to start this pea coat some time in September.  We shall see!

Even if my first MakeNine challenge isn't completely successful, I will likely do it again next year.  I find it a good motivation to put some focus on patterns or projects that I have wanted to sew for a long time.

L

What month is this?

March, right?  

February was all kinds of hectic and stressful.  I was sick for over two weeks.  Thankfully I am better now, though I was scared for a moment.

Needless to say, not much sewing went on. I made eight garments in January; I half-finished one shirt in February. 

About that shirt...

Continuing with my Make Nine challenge, I started working on the Ottobre shirt, well a similar shirt. 

 Ottobre 5-2012-7

The horizontal bust darts were converted to shoulder princess seams for better fit.  The pattern doesn't have back darts, but I added them for waist shaping.

The bottom half and button band are both cut on the bias and this is my first time working with plaid.  Except for the two weeks I was sick, I put a lot of time into making this shirt. 

So why is it only half-finished?  Two words:  the collar.  UGH.

The collar stand is cut on the fold, right?  So why did I add a seam allowance to the fold line?  SMH.  I didn't even realize it until after I cut, interfaced, and sewed it to the neckline.

Okay, so I remove the collar/collar stand situation and re-cut the stand without the seam allowance.  Problem fixed?

Well...let's see.

Hmm...this looks okay.  The edge of the collar seems mighty close to the edge of the collar stand.  Let's see how the other side looks.

LE SIGH.

Why does the collar extend beyond the button band?!  Did I add a seam allowance to the foldline of the collar too??

Suffice it to say this shirt is currently residing in Area 51.  While I have enough fabric to re-cut the entire collar situation again, I am sorely lacking in patience right now. 

Plus the fabric is really stiff and I am not as enthused about dealing with it anymore.

I really like the pattern and intend to work on it again - just not right now.  I need a sewing win and this shirt is not going to deliver.

What's next?  I have a pair of jeans cut out and ready to sew and am starting the Boronia Bowler bag (another Make Nine challenge piece).
 

I hope this bag comes out as nice as I envision.  We shall see!

L

January Wrap-Up

After nearly 12 years of blogging, I don't think I've ever done an end-of-month wrap-up.  At least, I can't remember having done one.

This month I made...wait for it...EIGHT garments.  This is approximately 1/3 of what I made in all of 2018!  That's some Dressmaking Debacles-level sewing right there. =) 

How I managed to sew this much during a busy month is a mystery, though it did feel like January had 83 days.

Totaling 15.75 yards of stash sewn, I made:

• 3 Dresses:  McCall's 7429 x2 and Butterick 6388
• 1 Jacket:  Kwik Sew 2895
• 2 skirts:  McCall's 6654 and BWOF  11-2017-106
• 1 coat:  Simplicity 8470 (post forthcoming)
• 1 activewear:  Jalie 3674

I've worn everything except the dresses and the coat.  It's too cold to wear the coat; Michigan winters are not for looking cute and the coat is just not warm enough for -12F (-24C).

 

If I had to pick a favorite, it would be Kwik Sew 2895.

 

 (skirt:  BWOF 11-2017-106)

I have four versions of this jacket and love wearing each one!  There is definitely a fifth version planned for later.

I'm glad the Simplicity coat is finished, but it's not as exciting as I first imagined.  I'll wear it for sure, though I can't in good conscience recommend this pattern to anyone.

I made McCall's 7429 twice and will retire the pattern.  The front drape is wonky by design and I can't think of a way to fix it.  I will wear both dresses and look for other options if I want to make a dress like this again.

The problem isn't as noticeable in the navy rayon version, but it's still annoying.

For February, I intend to keep working on garments from my Make Nine plan.  Right now, I'm working on a button-up shirt from Ottobre, though it's not the same one from the plan.  I had already cut out a muslin for a different shirt and decided to run with that.  The muslin looked promising, so we'll see how it goes.

I also want to finish the Boronia Bowler before March; I hope to carry it to an event planned for the end of the month.

That's all for now.  I have a lot to say about the Simplicity coat and need to get to writing that post. =)

L

 

 

 

McCall's 7429 (knit dess)

I can check off another pattern from my infinitely long want-to-sew list.  

I can't remember who I saw make this pattern first, but when I did I knew I had to have it.  Twist front, mock wrap front, sleeves, and collar?  Score!

I read several reviews on PR and knew that the instructions for the twist were iffy.  So I watched Brittany Jones' video on YouTube first to get an idea of what to do.  The key to sewing this area is making sure all of the markings are clear, marked, and accurately sewn.  After watching the video, the instructions made sense.  It's hard to describe in words, so if you make this dress, definitely check out her video.

Fabric & Notions:

• 2.5 yards of polyester ITY 
• stretch needle
• wax tracing paper for markings
• sewing machine and serger

Size:  I traced size 14 in the neckline, shoulder; 14/16 in the armhole; and size 16 everywhere else.  

Alterations:  I did not do an FBA.  Whaaaat!  The front pattern piece looks like an amoeba and I didn't feel like trying to figure out where to draw the alteration lines or what to do with the dart. I wasn't particularly over the moon about the knit, so if the dress didn't work I wasn't going to be upset.

I made a swayback adjustment by taking out an inch from the back (from side to side).  I added the inch back in the hip area as a full seat adjustment.  

Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick (SBCC) wrote a post on the swayback adjustment.  While it's true I often have fabric pooling above my waist, I'm also short.  So the adjustment I make kind of (maybe?) solves two problems:  a too-long back-to-waist length and swayback.  It's an interesting read that I have to think about more.

Anyway...back to this dress.

Construction:  I used a small zigzag stitch (width 1.5, length 2.0) and serged the seams after they were sewn.

Sewing the dress takes some time because there are a few areas that need narrow hems and precise matching and sewing.   It's important to not skip or be lazy with these steps because the dress won't come together easily or as it should.  Aside from that and the twist, construction isn't too bad.

 

I gave zero thought to matching the "stripe."  Oddly enough, the back matches pretty well.  I bet if I had tried to match, it would be off somewhere. SMH

 

 

Even though I like it, the front wrap annoys me.  The concept is good, but the execution needs help; I hate how the wrap folds to the outside.  In a solid, this wouldn't be such a big deal.  But in a print where the wrong side is clearly different from the right side, this is very eye-twitchy.

 

I don't know if this is a result of bad sewing or bad design.  I looked at every review on PR and only saw one image where the front flipped out like this.  It's not the worst thing and the dress is wearable, but still.  Eh.

I didn't make any changes to the length and hemmed at the suggested allowance.  I think it looks good.

I already have fabric (navy rayon) ready to make a second version and I might make one more in animal print.

This is the third item from my MakeNine2019 plan.  Woot.  Three down, six to go!

I took a break from the MakeNine to make a pair of exercise pants.  My last pair could not be patched any more and needed replacing. 

I finally got a matching zipper for the Simplicity coat.  I am so close to finishing, but this coat is really trying my patience.  Grrrr...

I think the next thing I'll work on is the button-up shirt.  I want more dress shirts and I think this could be a good pattern with which to start.

Things are a little stressful 'round here so hopefully I will get back to sewing a little more often soon.

That's all for now.  Peace!
 
L

Butterick 6388 (knit dress)

I finally got around to making this dress after having it rotate in and out of the queue for a couple of years.  It's so quick and easy to sew; I don't know what took me so long to make it.

There's so much to like about this pattern:  it's a knit, has pockets, some waist shaping, and a collar that nicely frames the face.  Love!

I cut and sewed this in about four hours - not including the muslin. 

Fabric & notions:

• 2 yards dark pink scuba knit (I think)
• 80/12 stretch needle
• steam-a-seam for all hems
• serger, sewing and coverstitch machines

Size (edited):  I cut a size medium everywhere.  Since I have the bad habit of working on more than one project at the same time, I confused the details of this dress with McCall's 7429.  Ooops. =)

Alterations:  I added a 3/4" wedge to the center front as a cheater FBA.  I didn't want to do a real FBA because I didn't want to have to deal with the dart.

I removed 1" from the side seam to the center back for the swayback adjustment.  Since I usually have to adjust for trunk junk, I added 1" from the side seam to the center back in the hip area.  This helped to keep the front and back side seam lengths the same.

I also added 3" to the hem.  As drafted, the cut edge ends an inch above my knees.  Errr...that's pretty short and I'm only five feet tall.

Despite my love for the collar, it's too tall at the center back.  I shaved 5/8" from the top and bottom, tapering to nothing at the center front.  This helped a little, but not enough; the collar still hits the back of my hair. 

The collar also could benefit from a bit of interfacing to keep it from collapsing.  

Construction:  I finished the edges of the knit with my serger and pressed the major seams open.  I didn't want the bulk of a seam pressed to one side because the fabric was rather thick.  I know knits don't ravel, but my mind wouldn't let that edge go unfinished. =)

Usually I sew knit seams with a straight stitch and then serge over it to maintain stretch.  Since I didn't serge the seams together, I sewed each seam with a  small zigzag stitch (width 1.5, length 2.0).

I didn't add the pockets because...um...I just didn't.  I still like them though!

 (ooof...bad lighting)

The only thing I'm mildly annoyed about is the lower sleeve seam.  I pressed and topstitched it in the wrong direction, so the stitching points upward instead of down.  Waaaaaah.  Meh, I am not redoing it. =)

Overall I'm happy with the dress.  I don't have any immediate plans to make it again, though I can see at least one more version some time in the future.

This pattern was part of my MakeNine2019 plan. 

Two down, seven to go.  Yay!

L

 

2019 Make Nine Challenge

I've seen this challenge around the internets and on the 'gram for a few years.  The challenge seems simple:  commit to making nine things within the year.

There are some other considerations, but I'm going to do my own thing.  More information about the challenge and its history can be found here:  The Make Nine Challenge.

I'm not setting any specific rules.  This isn't a capsule wardrobe or a quest to fill holes in my closet.  These are projects that I've put on hold (for no good reason) or garments that I've made before and enjoy wearing.

Here are my tentative plans:

Top Row

• Burda 9-2006-104:  I made this in 2015 and wear it religiously during spring.  For the second version, I want to go all out and include contrast piping on the pockets, collar, lapel, gun flap, sleeve tabs, and epaulettes.  This will be an epic project, but I'm excited about it.
• Burda 11-2017-106:  I made this in 2017 and really like wearing it. 
• McCall's 7429:  I'm making this as part of the Sew Twists and Ties challenge. The neckline looks a little choker-ish.  We'll see how far I get with this one. 

Middle Row

• Ottobre 2-2006 #5:  I need more classic button-up shirts.  This one has horizontal and bust darts that I can use to convert to shoulder princess seams.
• Blue Calla Boronia Bowler:  Ever since following Kyle's construction of this bag, I have not been able to get it out of my mind.
• Jalie Éléonore:  Been there.  Done that.  Doing it again.

Bottom Row

• Burda 5-2011-113:  Something about this jacket intrigues me.  I have zero use for it and would probably have to make a skirt or pants or something to go with it.  I want it anyway. =)
• Butterick 6388:  My friend Anne and I have talked about sewing this dress ever since it came out two (three?) years ago.  It's time for me to stop talking and start doing.
• Ottobre 5-2010 #11:  I used to have a gray pea coat that I wore all of the time.  Now that it's too small and I can sew, seems fitting that I should make a replacement. 

With the exception of the Burda skirt and the Jalie pull-on jeans, none of these projects will be quick sews.  It'll probably take me all year to work through the list.  Sometimes I get bored with a project and have to set it aside in favor of doing something else.  I'm not pressuring myself or setting any deadlines.

I'm almost finished with the skirt and washed fabric for the McCall's dress.   So far, I'm off to a good start.  We'll see about the rest. =)

L