Burda 6426: chambray shirt

This pattern moved to the top of the to-sew list as soon as I saw Maggie's (@maggieelainediy) version on Instagram.  I'm glad she shared her version because the pattern envelope is not inspiring at all.

As a basic button-up shirt, it's perfectly fine.  But I would have not given this a second thought were it not for Maggie posting a few pictures of her shirt.

Oof.  Don't mind the collar and back photo.  It looks much better in person. =)

The fabric is cotton chambray from the stash.

I muslined a straight size 42 (16).  I didn't need an FBA, but I removed 1/2 inch above the bust and in the waist area on both the front and back.  I think this is an alteration I'll have to make with most Burda woven shirts.

To ensure the sleeve length remained the same, I removed 1/2 inch before and after the shoulder seam, tapering to nothing at the sleeve hem.

When I tried on the top, I was disappointed to see the shoulder seam was SOOOOOO long.  When I looked at the pattern envelope again, I noticed the shirt actually has dropped shoulder seams.  D'oh!  The line drawings don't accurately show this, though you can sort of see it in the printed top on the model.

I'm not too big on dropped-shoulders because the style makes it appear as if the shirt is falling off of me.  My fabric has nice drape, so it doesn't look too bad. 

Ruffles!  I love this little sleeve detail.

You're supposed to sew a buttonhole through multiple thicknesses on this tiny band.  Uh, no.  I opted to save my sanity and use snaps instead.

In all I like the shirt and will definitely wear it.  It's not a difficult pattern to sew and can be made rather quickly.  The dropped-shoulder has to grow on me, though.

This is the second top completed for my mini wardrobe plan:

Tops

• Jalie 3245 - black & beige distressed knit (done)
• Burda 6426 - grey cotton chambray (done)
• Burda 6456 - white cotton burnout (maybe)
• Burda 6425 - yellow rayon challis (next)

Bottoms

• Burda Style 4-2019-113 - black denim (done)
• McCall's 7906 - grey, white, yellow, black cotton (almost finished)

Jacket

• Kwik Sew 3558 (done)

Dresses 

• Simplicity 8907- grey & white linen
• McCall's 7465 - black and white striped rayon knit
• Simplicity 8834 - yellow tencel

I am really close to finishing McCall's 7906.  I realized late yesterday that the pockets are pressed and stitched in the wrong direction. *facepalm times 100*  I have to unpick the understitching and regular stitching to re-do this area.  

After this, I need to sew the buttonholes and hem.  More later!

L

Burda Style 4-2019-113: skirt

Leave it to Burda to take a simple A-line skirt and make it fabulous.  When I saw this pattern in the April issue, I knew I wanted to make it.

 (line drawing credit:  Doctor T Designs)

Let's look at the details:

• loads of topstitching
• in-seam pockets
• functional and removable pocket bag
• belt loops - integrated and separate
• back invisible zipper
• cuteness overload!

I cut size 44 and made a 3/4" full seat adjustment.  I added a 1" hem but removed it after trying on the skirt.  Usually I don't add a hem allowance to Burda skirts or tops, but this looked a little short.  I ended up not needing the extra length.

This is really easy to sew and the instructions aren't terrible.  Mind your markings and definitely follow the instructions!  I ended up picking every single topstitched seam because I glossed over some details.

For example, the area where the belt passes under the panel is only on the right side.  This is clear in the line drawing and implied in the instructions.  Somehow, I missed that until I was nearly finished.  *facepalm*

Also I topstitched the center back seam before finishing the waist.  Yeah, don't do that.  Once the waist is finished, the topstitching helps to secure the facing (or petersham in my case) to the inside.  I wondered why Burda waited until the end to do this topstitching; now I know.

Can we talk about the belt and pocket loops?

Each rectangle is 1 1/8 inches wide.  You're supposed to stitch the long sides right sides together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and turn right side out. Even though I was using a light weight denim, there was no way to turn this tube right side out.  I tried using a bodkin, fasturn, safety pin, prayer - nothing worked.

So instead, I re-cut the rectangle 1/4" wider, turned the long edges in, pressed, and topstitched from the outside.

So much easier!

I used petersham to face the waist - my preferred method for skirts.  I actually cut and attempted to use the facings, but following the instructions left me with an area that was really bulky. 

I didn't include the tab on the pocket bag or the inseam pockets.  I used a snap as the closure, but I will make a functional buttonhole instead.  The button looks out of place just sitting there.

I really like this skirt.  It's part of a mini wardrobe I got going on right now:

• Tops:  Jalie 3245 (done), Burda 6426 (next)
• Bottoms:  Burda Style 4-2019-113 (d0ne), McCall's 7906
• Jacket:  Kwik Sew 3558 (done)
• Dresses:  Simplicity 8891, Simplicity 8834, McCall's 7465

I muslined Burda 6426 and it looks promising. Hopefully I can get this sewn in the next couple of days.

L

Jalie 3245: raglan top

Me and the blogging thing seem to be on an indefinite loop of "excited to share" and "ugggh."

Initially I started to write a super long post summarizing my sewing hits and (mostly) misses over the last couple of months.  The task proved to be daunting and I quickly lost interest.

So instead I'll try to write smaller, shorter posts on the things I've sewn since March.  We'll see how this goes. =) 

First up:  Jalie 3245.  

This has been on my radar for a while.   Jalie usually fits me with minimal adjustments and the simplicity of the top makes it an easy sew.

Unfortunately, the expansion of my gut doesn't make this a flattering look.  It looks okay from the front and back, but that side view is just begging for someone to ask me when I'm due.  =/

I cut a size Z and made a 3/8" FBA for a bit more width and length.  I rotated the dart to the raglan seam.  There were no issues sewing this seam as there was plenty of stretch to accommodate for the extra length.

I have always struggled with knit neckbands.  Sometimes I'll sew them decently; most times, not so much.  Kyle (@vacuumingthelawn on Instagram) uploaded a video of how she attaches knit neckbands.  It's such a good method and, save for user error, works perfectly.

It takes some practice to gauge how much to stretch the neckband, but minor differences in tension are barely noticeable. This is the probably the best neckline I've sewn.  Check out Kyle's highlights for the process.

The fabric is a distressed knit that I picked up recently in Canada.  It's a combination of regular jersey and mesh knit.  This combo did not respond well to straight basting stitches at all.  So I sewed all seams with a small zigzag stitch first and finished them together with the serger.

I didn't bother hemming the shirt.  The unfinished hems sort of "go" with the distressed look.

Really I was just being lazy. =P

The shirt not a total fail, but I don't know that it'll get much wear.  I'll revisit it again in about 10 pounds. =)

L