New Look 6644: When Wrong is Right

I checked off another pattern from the "want to sew" list:  New Look 6644. I don't remember when it was released, but I do remember really wanting to make both the top and cargo pants. I made a muslin of the cargo pants, but got distracted and never followed up with making adjustments.

Despite wanting to make the top, I was intimidated by the v-neckband construction. Sometimes the smallest details stop me in my tracks. I got interested in it again after recently viewing a sewing YouTube video of someone making the top. It didn't seem that hard at all, so I pulled out some fabric and got to work.

 

 

I also figured if I struggled with sewing the v-neckband, then it's okay because I wasn't too happy with the fabric. More on that in a bit. First the short details:

Fabric & Notions:

• 1.5 yards rayon/poly/lycra heathered brushed sweater knit (2022)
• strips of SewkeysE 1/2" knit stay tape 
• regular sewing and serger thread
• 80/12 stretch needle

Size and Adjustments:  I cut a straight size 16 and added 2 inches to the bottom (front and back) as a cheater FBA. The top looks a little short on the model, so I didn't mind the extra length overall. The fabric has a lot of vertical movement and makes the top hang weirdly. I'll see how it wears and decide then if the extra 2 inches was necessary all around.

 

Construction Notes:  I fused knit stay tape to the shoulder seams and around the front neckline. My first attempt at making the top using this fabric was a mess because I think the neckline stretched out. The knit wasn't particularly stable so that didn't help.

 

Determined to not give up, I cut a new front and back and stabilized the area first. 

 

The rest of the construction was very straightforward. I attached the neckband with my sewing machine and finished the edges and all other seams on my serger.

 

I didn't get the neckband seam aligned properly with the V, but that's okay. I'll work on it and do better next time.

 

 

When Wrong is Right:  When I first bought this fabric, I was disappointed with the texture because what I originally thought was the right side turned out to be the wrong side. The public side is very fuzzy and looks like it already pilling.

 

 

Yeah, no. Not a fan.

I really tried to overlook it, but eventually I just couldn't; I knew I wasn't going to be happy with it. Plus I had a few cuts of this fabric in different colors, so I wanted to find a way to like it - before giving it away.

The wrong side of the fabric has a completely different texture. It's still soft, but has no fuzz. Like I said, initially I thought it was the public side. So you know what? I used the wrong side as the right side and I like it so much better. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the two:

left:  original public side (fuzzy)

right:  original wrong side (not fuzzy)

 

Another comparison:

 

 

The wrong side is darker, but I don't mind. I'd rather have that than the potential messiness of pilling.

 

An upside to swapping right with wrong sides is the fuzzy side is close to my skin which should make this comfortable to wear in cooler weather. I may come to regret this if it makes me sweat too much.

 

Conclusion:  I like the pattern and am no longer afraid of sewing the v-neck. I think the pattern might work better in a less fragile knit, so I'll search the stash and try it again sometime. In the meantime, this top will be worked into the fall rotation.

This is the...hmm...fourth top I've made for my fall nautical wardrobe. I have two more tops to make then I need to start working on bottoms. I'll share progress pics in the next post...I hope.

Thanks for reading!

L

 

 

 

 

The Many Versions of Simplicity 9385

When this pattern was released last fall, I knew it was going to be popular. It's got sleeve, neckline, and bodice variations and makes for a great layering piece or main upper garment if the fabric is heavy enough. I made five versions of view C (third image from top on the pattern).

 

Fabric & notions:

• 1.5 yards of 60"-wide fabric
• 1/2-inch strips of fusible interfacing to stabilize the shoulder seams
• serger thread

Pattern:  View C uses 6 pattern pieces:  front, back, sleeves, lower band, collar, and sleeve cuffs.

 

Size:  I cut a straight 14 for each version. After making and wearing the first one (cream rayon lycra), I found myself always tugging on it. So be aware that view C is very short. 

 

I did a cheater FBA by adding one inch to the center front. I also lengthened the top an additional two inches. In the picture below, you can see the center front is extended three inches, tapering to two inches at the side seam. I suppose I could just cut the view with the longer length, but I like the look of the band and I think the longer version with the band might be too long.

The sleeves on this version are a bit long on me, so I removed an inch on versions 2 - 5. 

 

Construction:  I sewed each top completely on my serger. From cutting to finishing with no mistakes, this top can be completed in a couple of hours.

Fabric:  I used three different types of fabrics:  rayon lycra, medium-weight ribbed knit, and polyester brushed sweater knit.

cream rayon lycra

 

For me, the pattern is just okay in a light-weight fabric. The drape is nice and I would only wear it under a jacket, cardigan, or sweater.  Also sewing this was a bit of a pain. Don't get me wrong, I like rayon lycra, but this project in that fabric was annoying. Incidentally, one of my many 2021 fails was a second rayon lycra version of this pattern. 😏

medium-weight ribbed sweater knit

 

These are definitely my favorites of the bunch. The ribbed knits hold their shapes well and are quite warm without additional layers. I've worn both tops with skirts and jeans.

polyester brushed sweater knit

Using the brushed poly sweater knit was a happy medium between rayon lycra and the heavier ribbed knit. The fabric has almost the same drape as the lycra but with the structure of the ribbed knit. Sewing these versions was way less frustrating.

The camouflage knit feels lighter in weight and poorer quality than the animal print. So I guess not all poly brushed sweater knits are the same. I wore the camouflage top on Wednesday and it felt fussy. It also catches lint very easily; I suspect this version will pill and degrade quicker than the others.

Summary:  This is a great pattern to add to the wardrobe. It's not difficult to sew and has lots of variations and potential. I have a scrap remnant of purple Merino wool knit that I intend to color block with scraps of black Merino wool. I'll cut the bodice out of purple and use the black fabric for the cuffs, band, and collar.

I also might try some of the other versions. Some sewers mention a mistake with the sleeve pattern for version A (too long or something). Versions A and C use the same sleeve pattern. If I make the version with the extra long cuffs, I'll definitely shorten the sleeves some more.

That's all for now. I'm in a sewing rut at the moment. I have things that I'd like to sew, but energy and motivation are on the low end. I'll keep working on building the 2022 MakeNine. I have seven patterns, but don't see anything else that I'd like to add right now. Maybe the other two slots should be fabric. Hmm...

L

Jalie Isabelle x 5

It's been a minute since my last post. I hope everyone is safe and healthy.  

On Wednesday, 11 March, my job informed all of us that we were working from home for the foreseeable future. The transition to remote work was not without its hiccups. I quickly learned that my very basic computer set up was inadequate and had to make some adjustments. I don't do a bunch of computer stuff (despite minoring in computer science and programming) so I did not see the need for what most people probably already have:  web camera, microphone, teleconferencing software, and a working monitor (well...a monitor that didn't take 30-60 minutes to turn on). o_O In the monitor's defense, it was old (in computer years) and probably wasn't expecting all of this extra usage.

Suffice it to say sewing once again took several back seats. I tried to squeeze in some time here or there in an effort to preserve my sanity and take a break from work. 

I wanted more workout pants because (1) one pair was too small (grrrrr...) and (2) the other three pair were in heavy rotation.  Before the shutdown, I was at the gym 3 times per week and sweaty workout gear needs regular washing. 

 

Having made the Jalie Isabelle four times already, I knew I could get these sewn pretty quickly. 

I batch-sewed all but the middle (purple) pair. My serger had black thread and my minor OCD would not allow black serger thread with solid purple knit. =P

I cut the pieces for each pair  and assembly-line pinned, sewed, serged, and coverstitched all at once. I didn't keep track of how long it took to do this, but it wasn't that long.

The first pair (left) is sooooo comfortable. It's an activewear knit from JoJos that I bought specifically for this pattern. I wish I had bought more of this knit at the time.

The last three pair use printed knits from a local nonprofit scrap store. The knits were about 1 yard long and maybe 12 inches wide - not big enough to make anything except a scarf. But for Isabelle, the size was perfect. As long as there is four-way stretch, you don't need a big piece of fabric to cut the contrast panels and waistband inset.

 

For the second pair (red), I used a two-way stretch knit from Fabric Mart. Do not use two-way stretch knit! There must be vertical stretch or the pants will be hard to put on and will not stay up. Ask me how I know. This pair might be good for biking, but nothing that involves any other movement.  Eesh!

Hopefully it will be safe to bike once the weather warms. Quarantine life got me looking most chunky and I need more exercise. I mean...sure I didn't need to eat the whole Costco-sized container of chocolate-covered raisins. But I couldn't let all those raisins go to waste.

***

I updated my MakeNine 2020 plan because I'm not really feeling much of the patterns anymore. I finished the skirt (total meh) and started the tote bag (currently in month-long timeout). Everything else is just...eh. I'll post on that next.

Stay safe everyone!

L