Burda Style 4-2019-113: skirt

Leave it to Burda to take a simple A-line skirt and make it fabulous.  When I saw this pattern in the April issue, I knew I wanted to make it.

 (line drawing credit:  Doctor T Designs)

Let's look at the details:

• loads of topstitching
• in-seam pockets
• functional and removable pocket bag
• belt loops - integrated and separate
• back invisible zipper
• cuteness overload!

I cut size 44 and made a 3/4" full seat adjustment.  I added a 1" hem but removed it after trying on the skirt.  Usually I don't add a hem allowance to Burda skirts or tops, but this looked a little short.  I ended up not needing the extra length.

This is really easy to sew and the instructions aren't terrible.  Mind your markings and definitely follow the instructions!  I ended up picking every single topstitched seam because I glossed over some details.

For example, the area where the belt passes under the panel is only on the right side.  This is clear in the line drawing and implied in the instructions.  Somehow, I missed that until I was nearly finished.  *facepalm*

Also I topstitched the center back seam before finishing the waist.  Yeah, don't do that.  Once the waist is finished, the topstitching helps to secure the facing (or petersham in my case) to the inside.  I wondered why Burda waited until the end to do this topstitching; now I know.

Can we talk about the belt and pocket loops?

Each rectangle is 1 1/8 inches wide.  You're supposed to stitch the long sides right sides together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and turn right side out. Even though I was using a light weight denim, there was no way to turn this tube right side out.  I tried using a bodkin, fasturn, safety pin, prayer - nothing worked.

So instead, I re-cut the rectangle 1/4" wider, turned the long edges in, pressed, and topstitched from the outside.

So much easier!

I used petersham to face the waist - my preferred method for skirts.  I actually cut and attempted to use the facings, but following the instructions left me with an area that was really bulky. 

I didn't include the tab on the pocket bag or the inseam pockets.  I used a snap as the closure, but I will make a functional buttonhole instead.  The button looks out of place just sitting there.

I really like this skirt.  It's part of a mini wardrobe I got going on right now:

• Tops:  Jalie 3245 (done), Burda 6426 (next)
• Bottoms:  Burda Style 4-2019-113 (d0ne), McCall's 7906
• Jacket:  Kwik Sew 3558 (done)
• Dresses:  Simplicity 8891, Simplicity 8834, McCall's 7465

I muslined Burda 6426 and it looks promising. Hopefully I can get this sewn in the next couple of days.

L

BWOF 11-2009-125 (funky bellbottoms): Complete

This seemed like the project that would never end.  Fortunately, it has.  Unfortunately, it's not my best work.  I'll definitely rock (ring?) these bells, but there is definitely room for improvement!

(top:  McCall's 6078, jacket Jalie 2559) 

Fabric/Notions:

• 2 yards of medium to heavyweight denim
• 7" metal zipper
• topstitching thread
• fusible interfacing
• 7 metal jeans tacks
• 80/12 universal needle for seams
• 100/16 universal needle for topstitching
• fabric scraps for pocket and belt loop lining

Pattern Instructions:  Typical BWOF word maze.  I didn't really follow them since I've sewn jeans before. In this order, I:  sewed the front and back vertical seams, inserted the zipper using the instructions from Jalie 2908, sewed the back crotch seam, and topstitched the inseams (described below).  I sewed the side seams, waistband, belt loops, and hem as usual.

Alterations and Fit:  Originally, I started with size 44, but took off so much (about 3 inches total) from the  seams, I probably ended up sewing size 40.  That's good news considering I picked up about six pounds (!!!) from my most recent ailment.  Ugh.  Comfort food played a big role in the weight gain...but still...six pounds? 

I removed a total of five inches of length:  three in the leg area (1.5 above and below the knee), one from the hem, and one from the waist.  Although removing the extra inch from the waist helped in positioning the jeans on my waist where I like it, I could stand to remove about another inch because the front crotch is still too long.  Is this a thing with Burda pants? 

Topstitching (A Lesson in Faking It):  With four godets on each leg, I didn't think the jeans would look right with topstitching only on the outer seams.  This meant I would have to topstitch one of those seams in a tube.  I tried it with basting stitches and gave up around mid-thigh.  There was just too much fabric bunched up around the needle.  There just had to be a better way to get the same effect without the hassle.  

My solution?  I faked it.  Before sewing the inseams, I topstitched them while they were flat.  I sewed a guideline on the seam line and topstitched 1/8" to the outside of this line.  Then I sewed and topstitched the side seams as normal.  Lastly I sewed the inseams, taking care to keep an even seam allowance so that the line of topstitching would be visible and even.  You know what?  The faked topstitching lines look MUCH better than the real ones.  Figures.

I ended up pressing all of the vertical seams open because I didn't like how much bulk was created around the godets.  There are areas where there is a little bit of bulk, but it's not too bad.

Construction:  I relied heavily on Katie's (Kadiddlehopper) blog post to sew this pair.  I took cues from her on topstitching the seams and lining the pocket flaps/belt loops. 

The only thing that gave me problems was sewing the buttonhole.  My machine did not like doing this at all.  I sewed a few practice buttonholes only to have to pick out the 'real ones' twice.  The final attempt resulted in a buttonhole that's about 1/4" too small.  The jeans tack still fits, but it's a struggle and I don't know how secure this will be in the long run.  

In pottery, if there is an area of the piece that is imperfect, potters often use something (a design, chattering, or more clay) to cover it up.  Picking stitches 0.4mm long is a PITA.  I couldn't pick them all, so I covered them up with a little decorative stitch.  Meh.  Like I said, not my best work.

Conclusion:  I'll wear these jeans, but I doubt they'll be in the regular rotation as much as my other jeans.  Despite trying them on during construction, they're still too big in many places.  Even though this is a very distinctive style, I will probably sew them again just to get the fit and sewing right.  I am by no means a perfectionist, but I know I can do better.

Peaking out from the jeans are leopard print patent leather flats.  I *love* this look, but hate that the flats are uncomfortable.  O_o  They have soft soles too!  Ugh!

More pics:

Up next:  I have no idea.  I need tops, so maybe that's what I'll work on next. Until next time, peace!

Jeans #9 (Part 2 - back pockets)

The instructions for J2908 are nicely divided into sections that feature the part of the jeans being made:  back pockets, back, front pockets, fly, side seams, belt loops, and waistband.  As I continue to document the process, I will follow this progression of construction and blog about each part separately.

Back Pockets (1 hour, 31 minutes)

Designing the back pockets of jeans is the most time consuming part of the process for me.  I spend a lot of time scouring the internet for images that I think are cool and easy replicate.  I've got some ideas about future pairs of jeans that may involve embroidery, hot-fix crystals, eyelets, and applique - not all at the same time!  Here, I only counted the time it took to physically draw the design, transfer it to the pockets, and sew.

1.  I made a copy of the back pattern piece and added seamlines (3/8").  

I also cut out a piece of transfer paper in the same shape of the pocket. This made it easier for me to ensure everything was lined up properly.

2.  Next, I free-handed a design onto the blank copy of the pocket and traced it with a serrated tracing wheel.

As you can see, I only traced one set of lines.  I used the guide on my presser foot to stitch the other lines. 

 3.  The fabulous Lisa of Sew On and Sew On posted a tutorial on how she preps and sews her back pockets.  I do mine a little bit differently.  Instead of stitching on the seamlines, I serge all of the edges and use this as my guideline.  The seam allowances on this pattern are 3/8" and while my serging is a bit more narrow than that, I don't have a problem folding over the necessary amount.  I also don't interface the top part of the pocket.  I haven't had a problem with the pockets stretching out, though this is something I will probably start doing on future pairs.

I didn't backstitch at the beginning or end of any line of sewing.  I know...I know...the horror!  I figure these edges are going to get turned under, pressed, and topstitched.  I think the stitches are pretty safe. =)

4.  Next I fold under 3/8" and press.  I am very generous with steam here because I want everything to stay nice and flat.  I also trimmed all of the loose threads.  Pin the pocket to the back at the marked dots.

5.  Whenever I topstitch, I use both a regular zigzag foot as well as a blindhem foot.  The blindhem foot has a little flange on the bottom that can be used as a guide along the edge of the fabric.  I sew the first line of topstitching with this foot and use the zigzag foot to sew the second line. 

To keep from having to change the foot often, I sewed the first line of topstitching for both pockets, then sewed the second line using the other foot.

6. I rarely put anything in my back pockets, but I still like to have a bit of security at the corners since they are points of stress.  To secure this area, I topstitch a little square through all layers.

7.  Finally I press both pockets with lots of steam to set the stitches.
 

That's as far as I've gotten with the jeans.  I still need to finish my Vogue skirt and whip up something for Faye's Top Sew Along.  Y'all know Faye hosts the best sew alongs, right?!

Time recap:

prep - 33 minutes
back pockets - 91 minutes

Total time:  2 hours, 4 minutes

Until next time, peace!

L