Garment Grab Bag: Simplicity 4020

Sometimes indecision on what to sew stalls my progress. There are so many things I want to make, but I find it hard to settle on one item. So I am trying something new this year. I made a "garment grab bag" of a bunch of patterns that are on my very long "to-sew" list.

There is nothing high-tech of fancy going on here. It's a simple paper bag with folded slips of paper.

I will try to stick to whatever garment that gets selected, though I won't be too rigid. If I am truly not feeling like making that garment, I'll pick something else. Sewing brings me joy and the moment it turns into a chore, I lose motivation.

 

The first garment I selected was Simplicity 4020 - a pullover top that has been in and out of the queue for years. I don't know why I kept putting it off.

 

I made view A (red) in a green polyester-lycra sweater knit from the stash. I wanted to make view B (blue), but I didn't have enough fabric for both the collar and long cuffs.

 

I cut a straight size 16 and sewed it as is. I've yet to try it on, though I do intend to wear it to work tomorrow. It seems a little short, so we'll see how that goes. Hah!

 

The top is paired with my latest skirt:  Burda 1-2008-109.

 

 

This is another pattern that has long been in the sewing rotation.  I cut a straight size 44 and used 1.5 yards of stretch denim. I forgot to add the belt loops before putting on the waistband and my fly front is sewn opposite than what's shown in the line drawing.

 

The front angled seams also serve as integrated pockets which is a neat design. It makes the skirt puff out a bit in the front, but I don't mind it much. 

 

There was one part of the instructions that just did not make ANY sense despite my best attempt at trying to understand. After thinking about it for a couple of days, I gave up and skipped that part. Maybe those instructions are there to help control the poofiness? I have no idea. Everything seemed to piece together without them and the skirt fits fine. I doubt I'll sew this pattern again, so those instructions will remain a mystery.

***

I selected another garment from the grab bag; this time, I pulled floral trench coat. I seriously debated selecting something else because (a) this will be a very long project and (b) I'm in the lower arctic and a lightweight trench coat is not on my radar right now. Then again, I thought why not get started on spring wear now. Yes, it's minus degrees Fahrenheit and there's a crapton of snow and it's windy so the temperature feels even worse. But spring is a couple of months away and I want to be ready.

I want to blog the process of making the coat. If I can remember to take pictures of the progress along the way, I'll share them here.

 

L

Burda Style 4-2019-113: skirt

Leave it to Burda to take a simple A-line skirt and make it fabulous.  When I saw this pattern in the April issue, I knew I wanted to make it.

 (line drawing credit:  Doctor T Designs)

Let's look at the details:

• loads of topstitching
• in-seam pockets
• functional and removable pocket bag
• belt loops - integrated and separate
• back invisible zipper
• cuteness overload!

I cut size 44 and made a 3/4" full seat adjustment.  I added a 1" hem but removed it after trying on the skirt.  Usually I don't add a hem allowance to Burda skirts or tops, but this looked a little short.  I ended up not needing the extra length.

This is really easy to sew and the instructions aren't terrible.  Mind your markings and definitely follow the instructions!  I ended up picking every single topstitched seam because I glossed over some details.

For example, the area where the belt passes under the panel is only on the right side.  This is clear in the line drawing and implied in the instructions.  Somehow, I missed that until I was nearly finished.  *facepalm*

Also I topstitched the center back seam before finishing the waist.  Yeah, don't do that.  Once the waist is finished, the topstitching helps to secure the facing (or petersham in my case) to the inside.  I wondered why Burda waited until the end to do this topstitching; now I know.

Can we talk about the belt and pocket loops?

Each rectangle is 1 1/8 inches wide.  You're supposed to stitch the long sides right sides together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and turn right side out. Even though I was using a light weight denim, there was no way to turn this tube right side out.  I tried using a bodkin, fasturn, safety pin, prayer - nothing worked.

So instead, I re-cut the rectangle 1/4" wider, turned the long edges in, pressed, and topstitched from the outside.

So much easier!

I used petersham to face the waist - my preferred method for skirts.  I actually cut and attempted to use the facings, but following the instructions left me with an area that was really bulky. 

I didn't include the tab on the pocket bag or the inseam pockets.  I used a snap as the closure, but I will make a functional buttonhole instead.  The button looks out of place just sitting there.

I really like this skirt.  It's part of a mini wardrobe I got going on right now:

• Tops:  Jalie 3245 (done), Burda 6426 (next)
• Bottoms:  Burda Style 4-2019-113 (d0ne), McCall's 7906
• Jacket:  Kwik Sew 3558 (done)
• Dresses:  Simplicity 8891, Simplicity 8834, McCall's 7465

I muslined Burda 6426 and it looks promising. Hopefully I can get this sewn in the next couple of days.

L

Kwik Sew 2895 & New Look 6274: Old Faves

This is my second version of KS2895 and the love is still here.  I first made it in 2014 and wear it all the time!  

Even though I bought the fabric especially for this pattern, I hemmed and hawed for A FULL YEAR on using it.  The denim is lighter in weight than the first version so I didn't think the fabric would provide enough heft to support the structure.  Turns out, the fabric is perfect!  The jacket isn't as heavy as the first, but it's ideal for spring days and summer nights.

I'll get pictures wearing it tomorrow...maybe.

The New Look skirt is nothing new since I've made it so many times.  I used one yard of non-stretch cotton sateen.  The skirt is lined with Bemberg and the waist finished with petersham.  Rinse.  Repeat. =)

These garments are part of an unintentional mini SWAP.  The colors are grey, white, and coral.  I don't know if that's spring-ish or not, but I like it so I'm making it. 

What's next?  I hope to finish the shirt that never ends - better known as McCall's 7627.  When Dressmaking Debacles said constructing the sleeves takes 317 hours, she was not kidding!  The sleeves....oy vey!

Here's what I have so far:

I know it looks like a hot mess, but there's actually a shirt under there.  I have to re-sew parts of the facing and sew in the sleeves.  I am totally slow-rolling this shirt because I am tired of sewing it.  Vicious cycle!

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace!

L

 

Pattern Review: Burda 6635 (First Completed Garment of 2018)

Don't check your vision; this is not an illusion. Yes, this is a new a blog post after...what...five or six months of silence?  Well...see...what had happened was...2017 was all over the place and blogging (and sometimes sewing) wasn't a priority.  I don't know if I will be able to keep at it this year, but I will try.  On with review...

When JoAnn Fabrics has its $2.49 sale on Burda patterns, I tend to look at patterns I would not normally sew.  Enter 6635.  I liked all the seaming on the front and back and thought, "why not?"  

I've had this pattern in my stash for a while and kept moving in and out of the sewing queue.  I made every excuse to NOT sew it:  it has too many seams (bwahahahhahaha); this is a lot of skirt for my five-foot frame; I don't understand how to sew that pointy corner-curved seam area. 

After getting a headcase about this silly pattern, I just did it.  It's only fabric, right?

I used 2 yards of a lightweight gray denim from Fabric Mart and sewed a straight size 42 and shortened each panel two inches (more on this in a bit).  I wanted to use the fabric for another denim jacket (Kwik Sew 2895), but the fabric is a skosh too light.  I still have 2 yards left; maybe I'll try the jacket anyway.

(right front)

 

 (left front)

So about that pointy corner-curved area.  This. Was. A. Beast. to sew.  The left front was stitched, picked, and stitched SO many times that I had to fuse some interfacing to keep the fabric from shredding any further.  I was able to get the right front on the first try, but it's still not great.  I gave up after the sixth or seventh try on the left front and the picture definitely shows it.  There is a small pucker that will just have to stay there.  I steamed the ish out of it but apparently fabric has a good memory.  Shrug.  I'm over it. 

I used muted gold topstitching thread for the seams and buttonholes.  Gray and gold interestingly play nicely together.  At first I was indecisive about the buttons.  Nothing I picked really "went" with the skirt and the buttons I had were too small.  

I like these buttons the best, but they're metal and a bit heavy.  The front band is interfaced so there's no concern about the buttons not being supported.  I'm more worried about the weight of eight metal buttons dragging down the front.  When I wear the skirt, I'll report back with more info.

Earlier I mentioned sewing size 42.  In an effort to get better at sizing and pattern adjustments, I am trying to stick with sewing one pattern company for an extended period of time.  Since I've had some success with Burda skirts and shirts, I decided to start with them.  

I made a magazine skirt pattern last month and found that the size 44 was too big.  The 42 is juuuuuust a little snug.  So I think if I start with a 42 and take 3/8 seam allowances, skirts will fit just fine.

Burda's draft is rumored to be more curvy-friendly so this adventure has me motivated.  So far I made two button-front shirts that I wear regularly.  We'll see how this goes. =)

***

I hope to write a review on a couple of patterns I made from the November and December 2017 issues of Burda Style as well as a (very late) 2017 sewing year in review.

L