Make Nine 2021 Results

Despite the challenges of 2021, I tried to find some motivation to sew by working on my Make Nine plan. 

 

Welp. This was a big ol' fail. I'm cutting myself all the slack, though, because I had a lot going on.

 

COMPLETED

I finished Burda 8-2011-102 (military-styled coat/jacket). It took a long time to finish this garment because I worked on it here and there and had BEAST of a time sewing those damn epaulets. The fabric is a beautiful 100% wool twill with a bit of mechanical stretch and spongy feel. But man was it a challenge to press and turn neat corners.

The collar is supposed to be pointy; mine is most definitely not. 😬 After struggling with the epaulets, I didn't even bother trying to fool with the collar.

 

I think I cut six pairs of those things trying to make it work. I am not a perfectionist by any means. However, I am a don't-want-this-to-look-like-crap-ist.

I didn't like that the joining seam on the epaulet showed on the front and tried to redraw the piece so that it was cut on the fold. I forget why I didn't use those pieces; I think something was wrong with how the point turned out. Anyway. I went back to the original pieces and had trouble getting the point to be pointy. This was definitely a fabric issue.

 

Because of the fabric's surface texture and feel, it was hard to prevent shininess when pressing - even after using a press cloth.  I couldn't steam-press the corners into submission like I normally would. This is another reason it took a long time to make the coat; I had to be very careful and methodical with pressing.

In all, I really, really love it. I got to wear it once before it got too cold and am excited to wear again this early spring.

ABANDONED

First new admit to Area 51 is the shirt of 1000 buttons:  Burda 1-2008-105. I started this garment a few days before shit met fan and was really excited about how it was going. 

I adored (and still do) the contrast collar and cuffs and the overall shape of the shirt. 

 

 

I couldn't trick my sewing machine to make 1.5-inch buttonholes and settled for 1-inch instead. 

The tricky thing about sewing this sleeve situation is the over sleeve part. The instructions are just weird. Okay?

• sew upper sleeve to lower sleeve ✅
  
• make buttonholes on lower sleeve ✅
• add cuff to over sleeve ✅
• turn under seam allowance on over sleeve and do some Burda magic to attach at upper-lower sleeve seam 👀 um...wut?
  

Y'all know Burda be on some crazy with the instructions. Most of the time I can figure it out. This was not one of those times because the seam lengths do not match and I had no idea what went wrong. I separated the upper and lower sleeves, sewed the over sleeve (with cuff) to the upper sleeve, and then attached the lower sleeve (with buttonholes) to the upper sleeve. I added pleats (visible from under the sleeve) to take up the extra seam length.

 

I have yet to complete the second sleeve because I'm just not motivated. After one of my cuffs came out looking like this, I stopped working on the shirt. I know what I need to do, I just don't feel like doing it. Meh. Maybe it doesn't look so bad...

The next admit to Area 51 is the Blue Calla Dogwood duffle bag.

Listen. When I tell you that I tried, I REALLY tried to sew this bag. I started it over four times with four different fabrics and this is how far I've gotten. The first fabric was just way too stiff and was not going to work. The second fabric suffered burn marks from my iron (wtf?). I had issues with the third fabric because...hmm...oh I couldn't get the pocket flap to overlay properly. 

 

The fourth iteration is what you see in the picture above. This fabric and lining are working much better, but I've had problems understanding the instructions. I've emailed the bag designer a few times and she's been very helpful. I've just reached my limit (for now) on making it work and have put it aside. It was supposed to be a birthday gift for the dude, but it didn't happen. 

The last new member to Area 51 is the pleated skirt: Burda 10-2017-117.

The skirt is nearly done:  front is pleated, back darts are sewn, and the front overlay is hemmed. So what's the problem? The closure is not what I expected and I wasn't paying attention before I started.

 

It looks like a pre-made belt/buckle thing (don't know the proper terminology) is sewn to the overlay and pleated front...waistband area? I have no idea. Since I wasn't sure what was going on here, I decided to add an invisible zipper to the left side seam. As it turns out, one of the pleats is very close to the side seam and I'm not sure a zipper is going to sit well in that area.

 

Plus I used a stiff 100% wool gabardine and I don't think I like wool gabardine. Despite being wool, it was a bit hard to press and do you see those ripples? Bleh.

 

I didn't try the rest of the patterns in the Make Nine plan. I intend to add Simplicity 8014 back to the 2022 plan as I really want to make that dress. I've seen so many good versions and think it's a winner.

 

I enjoy doing the Make Nine challenges and intend to set some new goals for 2022. So far I've got six patterns on the grid and want to find three more. Details soon...

 

L

 

2021 Make Nine Challenge

This will be my third year participating in the challenge. I quite like it because there really aren't any rules and I don't feel any pressure to complete everything or maintain the original plan.

This year, I've picked a couple of patterns that I've wanted to sew and some that are rather challenging.

 

Vogue 8825 & Simplicity 8014

 

These two patterns have been in and out of rotation for YEARS. I tried making 8014 some time ago, but fabric made the dress a disaster. I've not tried 8825, but am inspired by the many good-looking versions I've seen.

Burda 5-2011-113

This pattern was part of my 2019 Make Nine plan. I got a little intimidated by all of the buttonholes at a time when my machine was having some troubles. I've traced the pattern and am in the process of making a muslin. So far I think I'll need to add some length and an FBA.

Burda 1-2008-105

Another holdover Make Nine 2020:  the shirt of 1000 buttons is on the list. I'm mulling over some fabric choices. The modeled version uses a striped cotton for the main body and a solid cotton for contrast. I'm thinking of using a combination of a striped and floral print or a solid and floral print.

Burda 8-2011-102

 

Burda's version really attracted me to this pattern. I intend to sew it fairly close to how it's done in the magazine:  dark main fabric (navy, black, or green), red piping, and gold buttons. I even like the frilly blouse worn with it!

 

Burda 8-2006-101

 

 

Style-wise, there is nothing particularly special about this jacket. The challenge is to make it in a plaid - a fabric with which I want to get more experience.

 

Burda 10-2017-117

What's interesting about this pattern are the mixed styles:  pleated left front and waterfall right front. Mildly crazy, but I like it. Also I figure if it's not working out, maybe I can try and salvage part of the right front to make this skirt from October 2019.

Interesting that the pleated skirt with waistband and closure is rated 2 dots, but skirt without pleats or waistband is rated 3 dots. 

Burda 9-2006-103

I made the shorter version of this pattern in 2015 and wear it all of the time (when weather permits). I love the classic trench coat look and want to make a longer, winter-friendly version like Miss Celie's Pants'. I have fabric, lining, and buttons and the pattern is already traced. I need to decide whether to use Thinsulate or flannel for an extra layer of warmth.

Blue Calla Dogwood Duffle Bag

 

I guess no Make Nine of mine would be complete without a bag project. 😁 I think this is going to be another labor of love - only this time I am preparing much more wisely:  no leather. I have some vinyl that should be easier to work with. I've not decided on fabric for the exterior or interior yet.

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This is definitely an ambitious plan! With the exception of the dresses, these projects are going to take some time to complete. I'll do my best and not get worked up if something doesn't go as intended. I changed last year's Make Nine completely and have no problem making adjustments if needed this year. 

L