March & April Wrap Up

I'm here in late April early May with my March & April Wrap Up. It's like that sometimes. 😅

 

March seemed like it had 92 days in it. Ooooof. Despite all of that time (hah), I managed to sew a grand total of one item. Please clap.  

 

The end of April was a whole mess. Things are a bit better, but still stressful. On with the sewing stuff...

After the buttonhole debacle of the Simplicity jacket, I needed a break from sewing garments and chose to make another Boronia Bowler by Blue Calla Patterns. I made it for a friend and colleague who has been very kind, helpful, and supportive for over a year. She has a sophisticated style of dress so I thought this would be a nice gift.

Having made the pattern before, I was aware of the challenging areas and didn't make the same mistakes this time around. The bag has errors for sure, but I didn't have to take apart and sew the zipper area four times, nor is there a random wonder clip permanently living between the lining and the bottom. 

 

It's not a big deal, but it's annoying to me that the metal label is not placed lower. Don't ask me why I put it there. 🙈 I think I was so focused on getting it centered, I neglected to actually center it on the vinyl overlay. Then there's this:

It's not terrible and hardly anyone will notice. Still, my eye twitches ever so slightly when I look at this. Not sure why this is uneven.

interior slip pockets

I found the quilting cotton on fabric.com - my first purchase from them since they were bought by Amazon. Although ordering the fabric went smoothly, I doubt I will make a habit purchasing from them.

 

Why owls? On Zoom, my profile picture is an owl with a "this meeting could have been an email" expression on its face. So now my colleague and I have a running joke about owls. They are our spirit animals. 😁

Fabric & Notions:

• approximately 1 yard of medium-weight linen (exterior body, gussets)
  
• unknown length of vegan leather/vinyl (overlay, handles, and strap connectors)
  
• 1.5 yards of owl print quilting cotton (interior lining, gussets, pockets)
  
• 36 " #5 gold metallic nylon coil zipper (exterior closure)
  
• 2 x #5 gold zipper pulls (exterior closure)
  
• 8 x 10 mm gold double-capped rivets
• 4 x 1" rectangle rings
• 1 x 9" nylon zipper (interior pocket)
• 4 x gold bucket purse feet 
• interfacing:  woven, foam, & peltex
  
• thread:  regular, heavyweight
• needles:  90/14, 100/16
• feet:  standard, walking, non-stick
  
• throat plate for thicker fabrics
  

Construction:  I sewed the bag almost completely on my Juki semi-industrial straight-stitch machine. Sections that required zigzag stitches were sewn on my regular machine. I used a walking foot to keep layers from shifting and a non-stick foot to sew the vegan leather.

I am now an industrial sewing machine convert. I like my domestics, but nothing compares to the power of an industrial or semi-industrial. My machine had zero problems sewing through multiple layers of vinyl, foam, fabric, and interfacing. My domestic would have shut off and walked out the moment I sat down to sew. I'm not ready to buy a dedicated walking foot or other straight-stitch machine just yet, but it's definitely on my radar.

I set the double-capped rivets with my KAMsnaps setter and corresponding dies. Given that I like making bags, I invested in the heavy duty tool and am glad I did. It makes opening holes and setting rivets SO much easier. (I just bought some snaps and dies in preparation for making the Closet Core Kelly Anorak.)

More pictures:

The one thing I would change is the placement of the rivet on the strap shown in the second picture above. It's a little too close to the rectangle ring which results in too much of the strap unsecured. There's no risk of it coming apart, it's just not a nice finished look. I bought some strap end caps, but in the wrong size (3/4" instead of 1") and I didn't realize my mistake until I opened the non-returnable package. Again no one will really notice, but this is something I need to consider when I make other bags.

***

I'm glad I took a break from garment sewing. I was in a sewing funk and this was a welcomed relief. 

 

In the beginning of April, I felt motivated to start working on two projects:  New Look 6560 (one project in my 2022 Make 9) and the Trillium Tote also from Blue Calla Patterns.

New Look 6560 - view C

 

I bought this Ankara print specifically for this pattern and it turned out exactly how I envisioned. The fabric is a little stiff for this design as it makes the cut-on sleeves stick out. But it's okay; I'll wear it anyway!

 

I cut a size 16 for everything except the belt where I cut size 20; I like my ties to be a little long. I did not make any pattern adjustments.

 

There is an instruction to attach ribbon to the left and right fronts as a closure. I didn't do that and will add a snap instead.

 

The pattern piece for the tie belt of View C is cut four times:  twice on a double layer of fabric. I didn't have enough of the Ankara print for this, so I used a scrap piece of coordinating blue cotton for the inside.

 

I definitely want to make this pattern again (views A and C) in rayon challis.

 

***

 

The last thing I made was the Trillium Tote. I made this for another wonderful, dear friend who's been instrumental in my life. We also have a bird/owl thing going on and the fabric used for this tote is a nod to that.

 

 

It took a while to complete because I didn't have all of the hardware on hand and some things are definitely needed in the beginning (like purse feet and zippers) before proceeding. I sewed up to a point where I needed something and then moved on to a different part of the construction. I wouldn't recommend doing this because it can be easy to get lost in the order of construction and that's how mistakes happen. Trust me!

 

Fabric & Notions: 

• approximately 1 yard of scrap cotton canvas
• unknown length of vinyl
• 1.5 yards of owl print quilting cotton
  
• 8 x 10 mm gunmetal double-capped rivets
• 1 x 8" nylon zipper
• 6 x gunmetal bucket purse feet
• 1 x gunmetal magnetic snap
• interfacing:  woven, peltex, foam
• KAMsnaps setter and dies
• thread:  regular, heavyweight
• needles:  90/14, 100/16
• feet:  standard, walking, non-stick 
• throat plate for thicker fabric

As with the Boronia Bowler, I sewed this mostly on the Juki except where zigzag stitches were needed. And again, the Juki handled bulk like the Hulk. 

 

If I were to make this again, I'd consider not using foam interfacing. The bag is quite thick and stiff and made sewing some areas challenging. Turning the bag right side out was no picnic either. Imagine stuffing this whole bag (with all its layers and thicknesses) through an opening roughly nine inches wide. Yeah. I knew I could do it because the Boronia Bowler uses the same technique. But maaaan, let me tell you. I was sweating by the time I was done.

 

Rather than using foam interfacing, I might consider felt or fleece. I'd interface both to give structure but to also maintain some flexibility.

Pics:

 

side panel with vinyl faux piping

interior slip pockets

interior zipper pocket

***

That's it for the update. My 2022 Make Nine is crawling along very slowly and was almost a Make None. 😬 I still want to make some of the pieces in the plan, but I'm not pressuring myself to do it.

 

Up next:  I want to make a shirt for the dude, another handbag, and start the Kelly Anorak. We'll see how that goes.

 

L

 

 

2021 Make Nine Challenge

This will be my third year participating in the challenge. I quite like it because there really aren't any rules and I don't feel any pressure to complete everything or maintain the original plan.

This year, I've picked a couple of patterns that I've wanted to sew and some that are rather challenging.

 

Vogue 8825 & Simplicity 8014

 

These two patterns have been in and out of rotation for YEARS. I tried making 8014 some time ago, but fabric made the dress a disaster. I've not tried 8825, but am inspired by the many good-looking versions I've seen.

Burda 5-2011-113

This pattern was part of my 2019 Make Nine plan. I got a little intimidated by all of the buttonholes at a time when my machine was having some troubles. I've traced the pattern and am in the process of making a muslin. So far I think I'll need to add some length and an FBA.

Burda 1-2008-105

Another holdover Make Nine 2020:  the shirt of 1000 buttons is on the list. I'm mulling over some fabric choices. The modeled version uses a striped cotton for the main body and a solid cotton for contrast. I'm thinking of using a combination of a striped and floral print or a solid and floral print.

Burda 8-2011-102

 

Burda's version really attracted me to this pattern. I intend to sew it fairly close to how it's done in the magazine:  dark main fabric (navy, black, or green), red piping, and gold buttons. I even like the frilly blouse worn with it!

 

Burda 8-2006-101

 

 

Style-wise, there is nothing particularly special about this jacket. The challenge is to make it in a plaid - a fabric with which I want to get more experience.

 

Burda 10-2017-117

What's interesting about this pattern are the mixed styles:  pleated left front and waterfall right front. Mildly crazy, but I like it. Also I figure if it's not working out, maybe I can try and salvage part of the right front to make this skirt from October 2019.

Interesting that the pleated skirt with waistband and closure is rated 2 dots, but skirt without pleats or waistband is rated 3 dots. 

Burda 9-2006-103

I made the shorter version of this pattern in 2015 and wear it all of the time (when weather permits). I love the classic trench coat look and want to make a longer, winter-friendly version like Miss Celie's Pants'. I have fabric, lining, and buttons and the pattern is already traced. I need to decide whether to use Thinsulate or flannel for an extra layer of warmth.

Blue Calla Dogwood Duffle Bag

 

I guess no Make Nine of mine would be complete without a bag project. 😁 I think this is going to be another labor of love - only this time I am preparing much more wisely:  no leather. I have some vinyl that should be easier to work with. I've not decided on fabric for the exterior or interior yet.

---

This is definitely an ambitious plan! With the exception of the dresses, these projects are going to take some time to complete. I'll do my best and not get worked up if something doesn't go as intended. I changed last year's Make Nine completely and have no problem making adjustments if needed this year. 

L

 

Make Nine 2020 Update

Nearly two-thirds of the way through the year of 10,000 days (or so it seems), I thought I'd post an update to my Make Nine 2020 plan.

Back in May, I revised the original Make Nine to include patterns that looked interesting to sew. I didn't intend all but one pattern to come from Burda Magazines, but those were the patterns that caught my eye. 

(Plus I don't have an efficient way of viewing my envelope patterns without having to sit at my computer and comb through a bunch of pictures. I'd like to catalogue all of them in a binder, but that's not happening any time soon.)

Revised Make 9

I've made lots progress on completing the plan.

Top Row

• 4-2008-107:  I love everything about this jacket - even though I've yet to wear it. I bound the seams with homemade red & white striped bias tape and used the same fabric for the under collar. The inside gives me so much joy.
  

• 1-2008-125:  This shirt is okay, but it's not a favorite. Stretch cotton poplin is not forgiving when it comes to wrinkles or puckers. I like it and will certainly wear it, but it reminds me why I  much prefer shirting fabrics without stretch. Sewing the tiny pleats was a pain in the ass. Next time, I'll pleat the fabric first and then cut the sleeve.

Ugh. The wrinkles!

• 1-2008-105:  This pattern is still very much a part of the plan. I need to settle on fabrics and find enough buttons to make it happen.

Middle Row

• 1-2008-109:  Though this is still on the grid, I don't know if I'll make it. I might swap it out for a different skirt.

• Blue Calla Amaryliss:  I ended up taking the partially-completed bag to a local cobbler to stitch the areas that were giving me problems. His machine is industrial-grade and can sew through leather a few inches thick. It cost me $20 for him to sew a total of about 6 inches, but it was worth it for my sanity.
  

• 5-2005-120:  This is my second (and final) attempt at this pattern. I just don't love it enough to finish it. The only thing it needs is buttonholes and buttons. Meh. I'll donate it as is.
  
  

(first attempt on the left is already trashed)

 

Bottom Row

• 2-2005-129:  I wrote a separate post about this skirt. I never wore it this spring or summer and have already packed it away. We'll see if it makes an appearance next year.

• 11-2016-102:  Initially I wanted to make this pattern out of a fuschia wool flannel, but I didn't have enough fabric. So I opted to use this plaid wool from the stash. Paired with this white bib shirt definitely gives off 'private school girl' vibes. I think I'll wear this with some some tall black boots and a black leather jacket. Now to get some tall black boots and a black leather jacket.
  
  
  

• 1-2018-121:  Another garment made that has yet to be worn. I wrote about it here. Since quarantine, I have been on full chillax mode and wear nothing but t-shirts and loose knit pants. Working from home has its challenges, but "camera off" has afforded me to go bra-less for five months and that's going to be a hard habit to break. Though I will give a serious effort to wear some of the stuff I made, including this outfit.
  

 

That's all for the update. I've been working on other things since finishing the blue shirt. I made a tan wool skirt to coordinate and am working on another Ottobre shirt. I started another bra and want to make another pair of jeans.

 

I don't know when I'll get back to the Make Nine, but when I do, the shirt of a million buttonholes will be next. 

 

Until next time, be safe and wear a mask.

 

L

Revised Make Nine 2020

Originally, I had high hopes for the patterns I chose for my first Make9 plan.  Yet as time passed and my waist expanded, those patterns began to look less appealing. 

After looking through my binder of Burda line drawings, I found a few patterns that piqued my interest. Two patterns I've wanted to sew for a while, so at least I'm remaining consistent with my original Make9 goal. The other patterns are 100% "oooo...shiny" and look like they'd be fun and interesting to sew.

Top Row

• 4-2008-107:  I think this will be a good replacement for a Kwik Sew jacket I made a few years ago. I wore that jacket so much so that it's completely faded. Plus, it's a little too small now. I could just make another version of the jacket, but I've made that pattern 3 times already. Time for change.
• 1-2008-125: I don't know why I like this so much! I love those pintucks on the sleeves! The pattern calls for stretch cotton poplin which I hate. HATE. But I'm willing to give it a try. At the very least, I get to use up some of the stash.
• 1-2008-105: Listen.  LISTEN! This shirt is all drama and I LOVE IT. There are over 30 extra-long buttonholes and I just know I will be fussing after the second one, but I WANT THIS SHIRT.  

 Middle Row

• 1-2008-109:  Nothing fancy here. Just a skirt with front angled pockets. I have some cuts of herringbone and striped denim that I think could look good with this pattern.
• Blue Calla Amaryllis:  This was part of the original plan and I left it because I am SO close to finishing. The bag is on timeout because sewing pleats in leather has broken three needles and crushed my spirits.
•  5-2005-120:  I actually started a version of this pattern back in January. But the fabric was too flimsy and I couldn't get those front ruffles to sit nicely. I have another fabric that is a bit more substantial and hopefully will be a better match.

Bottom Row

• 2-2005-129:  This was also copied from the original plan. It's finished, but looks way too Little House on the Prairie for me. The pattern is fine, but the stripe I used just isn't working at all. A solid would be much better for sure. I'll write a review later.
• 11-2016-102:   Again, nothing fancy. Just a skirt with a flounce.
• 1-2018-121:  I first noticed this pattern when Dressmaking Debacles' made her version. Loved it and immediately added it to the queue. I finished this one also and like it much better than the prairie skirt. Review soon!

That's it for the update. I'm not going to stress myself if I don't get all of these sewn or change my mind again. There is enough to be stressed about and sewing is supposed to be fun.

 

Take care and be safe everyone!

 

L
 

2019 Make Nine Challenge

I've seen this challenge around the internets and on the 'gram for a few years.  The challenge seems simple:  commit to making nine things within the year.

There are some other considerations, but I'm going to do my own thing.  More information about the challenge and its history can be found here:  The Make Nine Challenge.

I'm not setting any specific rules.  This isn't a capsule wardrobe or a quest to fill holes in my closet.  These are projects that I've put on hold (for no good reason) or garments that I've made before and enjoy wearing.

Here are my tentative plans:

Top Row

• Burda 9-2006-104:  I made this in 2015 and wear it religiously during spring.  For the second version, I want to go all out and include contrast piping on the pockets, collar, lapel, gun flap, sleeve tabs, and epaulettes.  This will be an epic project, but I'm excited about it.
• Burda 11-2017-106:  I made this in 2017 and really like wearing it. 
• McCall's 7429:  I'm making this as part of the Sew Twists and Ties challenge. The neckline looks a little choker-ish.  We'll see how far I get with this one. 

Middle Row

• Ottobre 2-2006 #5:  I need more classic button-up shirts.  This one has horizontal and bust darts that I can use to convert to shoulder princess seams.
• Blue Calla Boronia Bowler:  Ever since following Kyle's construction of this bag, I have not been able to get it out of my mind.
• Jalie Éléonore:  Been there.  Done that.  Doing it again.

Bottom Row

• Burda 5-2011-113:  Something about this jacket intrigues me.  I have zero use for it and would probably have to make a skirt or pants or something to go with it.  I want it anyway. =)
• Butterick 6388:  My friend Anne and I have talked about sewing this dress ever since it came out two (three?) years ago.  It's time for me to stop talking and start doing.
• Ottobre 5-2010 #11:  I used to have a gray pea coat that I wore all of the time.  Now that it's too small and I can sew, seems fitting that I should make a replacement. 

With the exception of the Burda skirt and the Jalie pull-on jeans, none of these projects will be quick sews.  It'll probably take me all year to work through the list.  Sometimes I get bored with a project and have to set it aside in favor of doing something else.  I'm not pressuring myself or setting any deadlines.

I'm almost finished with the skirt and washed fabric for the McCall's dress.   So far, I'm off to a good start.  We'll see about the rest. =)

L