Before
I jump into the topic of this post, I want to apologize for the delay
in my replies to comments. I used to get email alerts when comments were
posted, but somehow that stopped. I've tinkered with the settings
multiple times and searched how to fix the issue - nothing seems to be
working. Also, I sometimes have problems replying to comments if I'm
logged in. I saw that Sigrid also experienced the same issue. I've been
saying for years that I need to look into other blogging platforms; I
need to stop saying and start doing.
That
said, I really do appreciate everyone who reads my blog and am grateful
to dialogue with you in the comments. It may take me a few days to
respond and I'm sorry for that.
I know it's been a minute since my last post. Working full time and being a full-time caregiver is extremely exhausting. I am still sewing and have made a few garments over the last several months. As always, I will try to share what I can, when I can.
On with the Make Nine results...
This is the first time I have successfully completed all nine items on the grid. I came very close in 2022 where I made 8 of 9 garments.
I owe the success of this year's challenge to the flexibility built in the grid. Rather than select specific patterns, I focused on garment types. If a pattern didn't work or if I had a change of mind, then I could simply pick something else of that type. In prior years, I never made it a strict requirement to stick to the plan, though I did notice that I would lose interest in the plan even if I made a change.
Favorites
My most favorite is the floral trench coat using Burda 9-2009-104. Making this coat was truly an exercise in perseverance and patience. Despite the pattern only requiring 3 yards of fabric, multiple user-unfriendly mistakes increased that number to 6 yards. Adding to that the extreme use of my seam ripper and half of a 1093-yard spool of thread, this coat nearly took me out. I am so glad I pressed on because I simply adore this coat. I detailed the construction over several blog posts; the final post can be found here.
My other favorite from the grid is the Hinterland bag by Lavender & Twine. This was one of my selections from the Handbag Grab Bag (I have a similar one for garments). I have a lot of handbag patterns that I want to sew and, as with garments, indecision is sometimes paralyzing.
I didn't know what vinyl or hardware I would use, so I scoured the internet for inspiration. Then I saw this on Lavender & Twine's website:
(maker: Cherelle Le'Ron)
Listen. I was smitten, SMITTEN, I tell you! I loved everything about the light and dark contrasting vinyls and gold hardware. So yeah, I absolutely copied this.
I'll write a separate post about sewing this bag and how well it worked on my trip to NYC. Suffice it to say, I LOVE this bag and want to make another one.
Good Construction
I really enjoy making button-front shirts. Now that I have a couple of TNT shirt patterns and have gotten comfortable sewing collar stands, I can make a shirt fairly quickly.
For the shirt/top category, I made yet another version of Burda 9-2023-125. I quite like this pattern because I can have fun thinking of ways to arrange the fabric for more visual interest.
For the inner cuffs, inner collar stand, under collar, sleeve plackets, and inner front band, I used a navy/white micro check gingham to contrast the outer fabric. The outer cuff, outer front band, outer collar and stand were all cut on the bias. It's hard to pick a favorite shirt because I have so many that I like. This one is definitely high on the list.
New Garment
I've been wanting to make a vest/waistcoat for a long time. After seeing lots of them in wardrobes and in stores, I wanted one sooner rather than later. I'll admit that I almost gave up on this category because my first two tries didn't go so well.
I started with Burda 10-2023-115, but the fit was sketchy. The pattern was too short for my taste and had gaping along the front. I didn't bother trying to make the adjustments.
Next I tried Simplicity 2556, view C. The fit was fine, but I didn't enjoy making the pattern.
I especially did not like sewing the v-shape in the back along with the lining. It just didn't look right. I know a good press is needed, but I didn't feel like fooling with it. I'll likely revisit this pattern, but use the pieces that don't have the back notch.
Finally I gave New Look 6914 a go. After making a muslin and being satisfied with the fit, I cut out the fabric, lining, and interfacing. I missed that the center and side fronts were to be interfaced, so I had to do some un-stitching to correct that.
Construction went fairly smoothly and sewing the lining wasn't too bad.
The only thing I do not like is how the lining opening is finished. I thought I knew how to slipstitch. I do not. When I make this vest again, I'll have to practice slipstitching because this is a whole mess. It's on the inside so no one will see it, but still. It can be much better.
Wearables
left (dress): Burda 9-2006-107
center (pants): Jalie 2909
right (knit top): New Look 6648
I am still on the hunt for a TNT woven shirt dress pattern. I think I'm close with Burda 9-2006-107, but I have to find a sleeve that fits this pattern. I tried using a sleeve from another issue but it didn't work at all. The sleeves as drafted are fine, but more suited for cooler weather. I want a shirt dress that I can wear in summer.
I made Jalie 2909 years ago with decent success. This year, I made the same pattern and relied too much on the stretch of my bengaline fabric to handle my weight gain. Eh...the pants are wearable, but not without a very long shirt to hide the horrible pulling at the waist closure. 😬 Also the waistband is weirdly narrow; I don't remember this from before. I'm in the process of making a second pair in a larger size. We'll see how it goes.
New Look 6648 is an old favorite that I've made too many times to count. It's quick to sew with only four pattern pieces (front, back, neckband, and lower band).
For this version, I used a knit from the stash dating back to December 2015. I wanted to replace an older black version of NL6648 that had seen better days.
The only thing I do differently when sewing this pattern is to not include elastic on the lower band side seams. I don't see the point as the top has the same ruching effect without it.
I forgot to include the lounge wear set in the collage. I made both views of Burda 5853. Despite how incredibly comfortable the fabric is, I've not worn this set since I made it. The top as designed has an uneven hem and I don't like how it can sometimes leave my stomach exposed. I'm usually always cold and like to be covered up - even during summer.
The pants are perfectly fine, but the elastic is a bit too tight. An easy fix when I get around to it.
Disappointment/Fail
The only unsuccessful item on the grid is the knit dress. I have wanted a knit wrapped (mock or full) dress for a long time and have tried several patterns. After the disaster that was the very popular Vogue 8379, I abandoned this style for a while. I decided to try again this year with mixed results. First up is Burda 7187.
The main issue I have with this pattern is the knit facing. I forgot how much I hate knit facings. Why I thought this time would be different I have NO idea. There is no amount of understitching and pressing that will help tame these little bastards. On the dressform, it looks fine, but on me this dress is a mess. The right front flips open because...reasons? I don't know. It's not like it's super heavy or unevenly sewn. It just does what it wants. Can't really see it clearly in this picture, but trust it's not good. It's in the donation bag now.
My second attempt was with New Look 6301. I saw so many wonderful versions of this pattern on Pattern Review and had high hopes.
There is some weirdness going on in the bust area. I can't find my notes for the alterations I made, so my guess is the FBA was too big or not correctly integrated with the pleats. I don't have any immediate intentions to try this pattern again, though I won't get rid of it yet.
That's it for this year's Make Nine! Overall I am really pleased with what I've done and intend to continue with the challenge in 2026. Details to come soon.
Happy holidays everyone!
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