New Look 6644: When Wrong is Right

I checked off another pattern from the "want to sew" list:  New Look 6644. I don't remember when it was released, but I do remember really wanting to make both the top and cargo pants. I made a muslin of the cargo pants, but got distracted and never followed up with making adjustments.

Despite wanting to make the top, I was intimidated by the v-neckband construction. Sometimes the smallest details stop me in my tracks. I got interested in it again after recently viewing a sewing YouTube video of someone making the top. It didn't seem that hard at all, so I pulled out some fabric and got to work.

 

 

I also figured if I struggled with sewing the v-neckband, then it's okay because I wasn't too happy with the fabric. More on that in a bit. First the short details:

Fabric & Notions:

• 1.5 yards rayon/poly/lycra heathered brushed sweater knit (2022)
• strips of SewkeysE 1/2" knit stay tape 
• regular sewing and serger thread
• 80/12 stretch needle

Size and Adjustments:  I cut a straight size 16 and added 2 inches to the bottom (front and back) as a cheater FBA. The top looks a little short on the model, so I didn't mind the extra length overall. The fabric has a lot of vertical movement and makes the top hang weirdly. I'll see how it wears and decide then if the extra 2 inches was necessary all around.

 

Construction Notes:  I fused knit stay tape to the shoulder seams and around the front neckline. My first attempt at making the top using this fabric was a mess because I think the neckline stretched out. The knit wasn't particularly stable so that didn't help.

 

Determined to not give up, I cut a new front and back and stabilized the area first. 

 

The rest of the construction was very straightforward. I attached the neckband with my sewing machine and finished the edges and all other seams on my serger.

 

I didn't get the neckband seam aligned properly with the V, but that's okay. I'll work on it and do better next time.

 

 

When Wrong is Right:  When I first bought this fabric, I was disappointed with the texture because what I originally thought was the right side turned out to be the wrong side. The public side is very fuzzy and looks like it already pilling.

 

 

Yeah, no. Not a fan.

I really tried to overlook it, but eventually I just couldn't; I knew I wasn't going to be happy with it. Plus I had a few cuts of this fabric in different colors, so I wanted to find a way to like it - before giving it away.

The wrong side of the fabric has a completely different texture. It's still soft, but has no fuzz. Like I said, initially I thought it was the public side. So you know what? I used the wrong side as the right side and I like it so much better. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the two:

left:  original public side (fuzzy)

right:  original wrong side (not fuzzy)

 

Another comparison:

 

 

The wrong side is darker, but I don't mind. I'd rather have that than the potential messiness of pilling.

 

An upside to swapping right with wrong sides is the fuzzy side is close to my skin which should make this comfortable to wear in cooler weather. I may come to regret this if it makes me sweat too much.

 

Conclusion:  I like the pattern and am no longer afraid of sewing the v-neck. I think the pattern might work better in a less fragile knit, so I'll search the stash and try it again sometime. In the meantime, this top will be worked into the fall rotation.

This is the...hmm...fourth top I've made for my fall nautical wardrobe. I have two more tops to make then I need to start working on bottoms. I'll share progress pics in the next post...I hope.

Thanks for reading!

L

 

 

 

 

Make Nine 2024

I'm on board for another year of Make Nine sewing. There's nothing particularly different about this grid when compared to prior plans; I picked specific patterns and a handbag. I like to things simple and allow for changes if I want. 

 

Simplicity 8445 (vintage shirt): I'm starting to get into some vintage styles - mostly from the 50s & 60s. This pattern has some nice lines and seems to be quite versatile in styling. I especially like the back yoke, turned-up cuffs, and front/back tucks. I don't know if I'll do the cummerbund.

 

Vogue 1973 (tie-neck blouse):  This pattern is similar to my TNT blouse pattern New Look 6831. I want to try the Vogue pattern because it has a proper sleeve cuff and hidden button placket. Karon Euter did a review of this pattern on her YouTube channel and I like it a lot. 

 

Burda Magazine 8-2022-109 (wrapped top):  I love a weird Burda shirt. I'm intrigued with how the front integrates into the wrap style along with a hidden button placket. This could either be really great or a big fail. We shall see.

 

McCall's 8367 (cargo pants):  I've been meaning to make a pair of cargo pants for a while. I like View C because of the wide elastic waist and elasticized hem. I also like that there isn't an explosion of pockets. Yes, cargo pants have pockets, but that one pattern (y'all know the one) has ten pockets. TEN. Why for? 🤔 If you can rock it, go for it. It's just not for me.

 

Burda Magazine 8-2020-116 (vest):  This is kind of a new one for me. I have lots of vest/waistcoat patterns, but have yet to make one. This time I want to give it a try. I like the simple lines of the pattern and the self-fabric belt. I have lots of lightweight wool cuts out of which I think would make a nice garment.

 

Simplicity 8554 (jacket):  This jacket caught my eye recently after seeing two sewing YouTubers talk about their versions (Donna's Things & My Bucolic Life). I have some cotton twill cuts that I think would work perfectly with this pattern. I especially like view C, though I might go for the slightly longer version in view B.

  

New Look 6014 (skirt):  This is the only pattern that gives me slight pause. It's not that I don't like it; I picked it because I needed a ninth item and wanted a skirt. It's similar to other button-front skirts that I've made, so it shouldn't be too hard to make.

 

 

Maggy55 Ciara (handbag):  When my friend and I traveled to Spain in 2014, I noticed she carried a super cute Kate Spade cross-body bag. I don't think the picture below was her exact bag, but it had the same colorway and shape. 

 

At the time, I wasn't interested in buying this bag or anything similar. But here we are 10 years on and I haven't forgotten about it. When I started bag-making a few years ago, I began hunting for patterns that reminded me of the Kate Spade bag. The Maggy55 Ciara has many different features, but the general idea is the same.

 

The bag seems a bit bigger than I may want (10.5" width x 11" height x 3" depth), so I'll have to think about how to adjust the pieces to make it a bit smaller.

Wild Card (deep stash > 10 years):  This shouldn't be hard at all! I definitely have fabric from at least 10 years ago.

This is what I have for the current Make Nine grid. I'm eager to get started once my sewing space is back together. 

 

Speaking of which...

Painting is mostly done in the basement; I still have to do the stairwell, but that's not happening any time soon. I need to reinstall the quarter round and decide whether to paint the machine room now or do it during spring/summer. Common sense says to do it now since everything is moved and out of the way. But, the sewing bug is biting big time and I'm ready to get back to it. Decisions, decisions!

L