New Look 6644: When Wrong is Right

I checked off another pattern from the "want to sew" list:  New Look 6644. I don't remember when it was released, but I do remember really wanting to make both the top and cargo pants. I made a muslin of the cargo pants, but got distracted and never followed up with making adjustments.

Despite wanting to make the top, I was intimidated by the v-neckband construction. Sometimes the smallest details stop me in my tracks. I got interested in it again after recently viewing a sewing YouTube video of someone making the top. It didn't seem that hard at all, so I pulled out some fabric and got to work.

 

 

I also figured if I struggled with sewing the v-neckband, then it's okay because I wasn't too happy with the fabric. More on that in a bit. First the short details:

Fabric & Notions:

• 1.5 yards rayon/poly/lycra heathered brushed sweater knit (2022)
• strips of SewkeysE 1/2" knit stay tape 
• regular sewing and serger thread
• 80/12 stretch needle

Size and Adjustments:  I cut a straight size 16 and added 2 inches to the bottom (front and back) as a cheater FBA. The top looks a little short on the model, so I didn't mind the extra length overall. The fabric has a lot of vertical movement and makes the top hang weirdly. I'll see how it wears and decide then if the extra 2 inches was necessary all around.

 

Construction Notes:  I fused knit stay tape to the shoulder seams and around the front neckline. My first attempt at making the top using this fabric was a mess because I think the neckline stretched out. The knit wasn't particularly stable so that didn't help.

 

Determined to not give up, I cut a new front and back and stabilized the area first. 

 

The rest of the construction was very straightforward. I attached the neckband with my sewing machine and finished the edges and all other seams on my serger.

 

I didn't get the neckband seam aligned properly with the V, but that's okay. I'll work on it and do better next time.

 

 

When Wrong is Right:  When I first bought this fabric, I was disappointed with the texture because what I originally thought was the right side turned out to be the wrong side. The public side is very fuzzy and looks like it already pilling.

 

 

Yeah, no. Not a fan.

I really tried to overlook it, but eventually I just couldn't; I knew I wasn't going to be happy with it. Plus I had a few cuts of this fabric in different colors, so I wanted to find a way to like it - before giving it away.

The wrong side of the fabric has a completely different texture. It's still soft, but has no fuzz. Like I said, initially I thought it was the public side. So you know what? I used the wrong side as the right side and I like it so much better. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the two:

left:  original public side (fuzzy)

right:  original wrong side (not fuzzy)

 

Another comparison:

 

 

The wrong side is darker, but I don't mind. I'd rather have that than the potential messiness of pilling.

 

An upside to swapping right with wrong sides is the fuzzy side is close to my skin which should make this comfortable to wear in cooler weather. I may come to regret this if it makes me sweat too much.

 

Conclusion:  I like the pattern and am no longer afraid of sewing the v-neck. I think the pattern might work better in a less fragile knit, so I'll search the stash and try it again sometime. In the meantime, this top will be worked into the fall rotation.

This is the...hmm...fourth top I've made for my fall nautical wardrobe. I have two more tops to make then I need to start working on bottoms. I'll share progress pics in the next post...I hope.

Thanks for reading!

L

 

 

 

 

Mid-year Check In

I am way overdue for an update. I've been sewing quite a bit and have things to say about some of the garments/patterns I made, however time and energy seem to be in short supply. I'll summarize what I've made so far this year and save specific details for some of the garments in separate posts.

A bunch of shirts

I love making shirts. Now that I have a collar stand technique that works for me and a pattern whose fit I like, making shirts is my new favorite (bye bye jeans...for now). To date, I've made four button-front shirts, one tunic, and one knit pullover. 

 

 top row:  Burda 9-2023-125, Burda 8-2009-104

bottom row:  Vogue 9299, Burda 8-2009-104, Simplicity 9385

not pictured:  third version of Burda 8-2009-104

 

My tried & true button-front shirt is Burda 8-2009-104 and I'll share more about it in an upcoming post.

Burda 9-2023-125 has potential to be added to the "favorites" list, however I need to make a few minor changes. I need to shorten the upper back and make a slightly larger FBA. The shirt buttons okay, but it strains a wee bit.

I have nothing new to add about Vogue 9299 and Simplicity 9385. I simply adore both of these patterns and have no intention to stop making them.

Two handbags

I finished the Maggy55 Ciara cross-body bag a few weeks ago. Prior to that, I made a fourth Blue Calla Boronia Bowler for another friend.

 

I used vinyl and linen from the stash for the exterior and quilting cotton for the lining. Despite making this pattern three times already, I still made mistakes with construction. They're not too noticeable, but some things can be better.

 

 
Two Dresses

I made a second version (navy) of New Look 6683 in a heavy-weight cable knit from JoJos. I like and wear my first version (grey) a lot. The second one, however, just isn't doing it for me. In theory it looks okay, but on me it looks kinda blah. Even though I interfaced the pockets on the navy version, they still droop - likely due to the fabric weight. I'll give it a few more months and try to wear it again this fall. If I still don't like it, it's outta here.

 

The second dress I made is view B of Simplicity 8014. SIGH. I really just need to give up on this pattern. 

 

I tried on three separate occasions to make view D and it didn't work. So I thought I'd give B a try since it's a different style. Sometimes, you just gotta let go and I think I've reached my limit of attempts trying to make this pattern work. I'll save more comments on this for a future post. In the meantime, here's a picture of the finished garment:

I love the fabric and the dress design, but this specific pattern just isn't for me. I've searched my Burda archives and found some similar alternatives. I'll likely try one of those soon.

Four Bottoms

Rounding out the last few garments made so far (clockwise from top left):  Jalie Éléonore pull-on pants, McCall's 8367 cargo pants, McCall's 6654 knit skirt, and McCall's 6360 leggings.

McCall's 8367 (cargo pants) is the only new pattern out of the lot. It wasn't a difficult pattern to sew but I definitely have some things to say.

 

The white cropped leggings were made quickly to go with the orange and green Vogue 9299 mentioned above. The pants and skirt were mini mojo-boosters when I felt a slump coming on.

 

That's it for the update. I've got three projects going on at once:  two more dresses and a shirt from my MakeNine plan. One dress just needs buttonholes and buttons. The second dress might be heading for Area 51 as I'm beginning to lose interest in it. The fabric is stiff and not what I want for the pattern. I might finish it enough to try it on and abandon for better fabric.

L