Jedi Smurf Coat: Sewing the Muslin (part 2 - lower front & pockets)

When BurdaStyle magazine used to be named "Burda World of Fashion," folks in the sewing community (myself included) used the abbreviation:  BWOF. Because the instructions can be real head-scratchers, this abbreviation easily morphed into BWTF. Seriously. I can't tell you how many times I uttered these words after reading the same line of instructions over and over.

There aren't any pictures in the magazine to aid in construction (unless the pattern is a sewing course) and the instructions appear as one big run-on paragraph in what must be font size 1.

 

Most of the time, this isn't a problem for me. But when I am stumped with something or  construction looks like it might be challenging, I type the instructions, enumerated line-by-line. I sometimes add the pattern piece number and other comments to help make the instructions clearer.

 

  

 

The pocket instructions for this coat do not make sense to me. Not one single bit. I must have stitched this five times, following each line slowly and carefully. I can usually figure things out, but this has me royally perplexed. Here are the steps that I don't understand:

 

Step 11:  Lay hip yoke piece (12) right sides together with lower front. Seam line meets with open side edge.

 

I marked the wrong side with tape because I accidentally cut this out backwards.

 

Step 12:  Stitch from side seam exactly to marking/clipping.

In this step, the hip yoke is stitched right sides together with the pocket flap - I think. I tried arranging the hip yoke several different ways and this is what I assumed the instructions meant.

In a previous step, you're supposed to clip the pocket flap and lining to a marked notch. I never saw the need for this but did it anyway. I still don't know why this is necessary.

Step 13:  Press hip yoke piece (12) to inside. Press seam.

Step 14:  Pin pocket opening edge on hip yoke pieces (abutting line) and baste.

Um. Wut?? I don't understand how this is supposed to work. If I do this, then the wrong side of the hip yoke faces outside and there's a mess of bunching with the pocket flaps. In other words, this:

 

The angled side seam of the hip yoke is supposed to match with the angled side seam of the lower front. The only way this happens with these instructions is in the picture above. This cannot be right.

I tried sewing the wrong side of the hip yoke to the right side of the front thinking the instructions were incorrect. Nope, that didn't work either. I have no idea how this is supposed to be sewn.

Here are the changes I made to the instructions; this is what made sense to me.

New Step 11:  Lay hip yoke piece (12) right sides together with pocket lining. Seam line meets with open side edge. Stitch vertical seam 2 to placement line.

(inside of the lower front)

When the pocket flap and lining are stitched to the lower front, the corner of this horizontal seam and vertical seam 2 is clipped. This is needed prior to sewing seam 2.

New Step 12:  Stitch from side seam exactly to marking/clipping - catching only the lining and yoke.

I figure this stitching is to here to decrease the size of the pocket opening. As drafted, you could probably fit an iPad in there. I still don't understand the need for clipping to the mark. 

I omitted steps 13 and 14 because they no longer apply.

Finally, the yoke and pocket lining can be pinned and sewn as instructed in step 15. This is how it looks completed:

 

 

I don't know if this is right, but I cannot figure out what the original instructions are supposed to achieve.

After stitching the side seams and leaving the muslin to coat hang for a day or so, I noticed that the front pockets sag near the side. So the horizontal stitching mentioned in the original instructions (step 12) is needed, I just don't understand how it's supposed to work.

I'll topstitch it on the outside and call it even. 😁

Here's the completed muslin.

As suspected, the coat is super long and comes to my ankles. Since finishing the muslin, I've shortened the bodice 1 inch and the skirt 4 inches. I meant to shorten the skirt 3 inches for a total reduction of 4 inches, but just now realized that's not what I did and I've already cut the fabric. Oops. 😐 

 

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My fabric is proving to be a challenge to sew. Even though it's quite nice and has wonderful drape, it's napped (didn't realize until I was prepared to cut) and doesn't like to be sewn or pressed or handled much at all. I'll keep working on it. Hopefully it comes out as I envision.

 

L

Jeans #9 (Part 2 - back pockets)

The instructions for J2908 are nicely divided into sections that feature the part of the jeans being made:  back pockets, back, front pockets, fly, side seams, belt loops, and waistband.  As I continue to document the process, I will follow this progression of construction and blog about each part separately.

Back Pockets (1 hour, 31 minutes)

Designing the back pockets of jeans is the most time consuming part of the process for me.  I spend a lot of time scouring the internet for images that I think are cool and easy replicate.  I've got some ideas about future pairs of jeans that may involve embroidery, hot-fix crystals, eyelets, and applique - not all at the same time!  Here, I only counted the time it took to physically draw the design, transfer it to the pockets, and sew.

1.  I made a copy of the back pattern piece and added seamlines (3/8").  

I also cut out a piece of transfer paper in the same shape of the pocket. This made it easier for me to ensure everything was lined up properly.

2.  Next, I free-handed a design onto the blank copy of the pocket and traced it with a serrated tracing wheel.

As you can see, I only traced one set of lines.  I used the guide on my presser foot to stitch the other lines. 

 3.  The fabulous Lisa of Sew On and Sew On posted a tutorial on how she preps and sews her back pockets.  I do mine a little bit differently.  Instead of stitching on the seamlines, I serge all of the edges and use this as my guideline.  The seam allowances on this pattern are 3/8" and while my serging is a bit more narrow than that, I don't have a problem folding over the necessary amount.  I also don't interface the top part of the pocket.  I haven't had a problem with the pockets stretching out, though this is something I will probably start doing on future pairs.

I didn't backstitch at the beginning or end of any line of sewing.  I know...I know...the horror!  I figure these edges are going to get turned under, pressed, and topstitched.  I think the stitches are pretty safe. =)

4.  Next I fold under 3/8" and press.  I am very generous with steam here because I want everything to stay nice and flat.  I also trimmed all of the loose threads.  Pin the pocket to the back at the marked dots.

5.  Whenever I topstitch, I use both a regular zigzag foot as well as a blindhem foot.  The blindhem foot has a little flange on the bottom that can be used as a guide along the edge of the fabric.  I sew the first line of topstitching with this foot and use the zigzag foot to sew the second line. 

To keep from having to change the foot often, I sewed the first line of topstitching for both pockets, then sewed the second line using the other foot.

6. I rarely put anything in my back pockets, but I still like to have a bit of security at the corners since they are points of stress.  To secure this area, I topstitch a little square through all layers.

7.  Finally I press both pockets with lots of steam to set the stitches.
 

That's as far as I've gotten with the jeans.  I still need to finish my Vogue skirt and whip up something for Faye's Top Sew Along.  Y'all know Faye hosts the best sew alongs, right?!

Time recap:

prep - 33 minutes
back pockets - 91 minutes

Total time:  2 hours, 4 minutes

Until next time, peace!

L