Burda 6425: pullover top

Occasionally, JoJo (JoAnn Fabrics) has a sale on Burda patterns for $2.49.  Because I am *cough* cost conscious, I use this as an opportunity to pick up patterns on which I would probably pass.

Hello Burda 6425.

There's nothing particularly exciting about the pattern - at least to me.  It's got shoulder pleats, sleeve casings with ties, and an elastic hem.  Big whoop.

But you know what?  I LOVE IT!  It wasn't difficult to sew and I finished it in two days.  I probably could have finished it in one day, but I burned a part of one sleeve and had to re-cut it.

I fully admit my dress form picture-taking skills need help.  Hopefully you can still see some of the details.

As with many Burda tops, the V-neck is insanely plunging.  The instructions even mention adding a snap to control exposure.  Thanks for the suggestion Burda, but I already knew. =)

Sizing

I cut a size 42 and did not make an FBA.  I made a muslin to be certain that I would have enough room even though the top is loose-fitting and has generous ease.  

I thought I would have to finagle the armhole because on the muslin it seemed really high.  After sewing in the sleeves on the actual garment, I didn't notice any strain in this area and the armhole doesn't feel tight.

Fabric

I used a deliciously supple medium-weight rayon challis.  It sewed and pressed beautifully and was not shifty like other silky fabrics.   ALL challis needs to feel like this!  The fabric is deep stash, so I have no idea where I bought it.  If I ever find challis like this again, I am buying all the colors!

I wore the top to an event yesterday and got a couple of compliments.  It was really comfortable and cool (i.e., not hot or sticky) to wear.

Sewing

I used a 70/10 needle in my sewing machine and my serger to finish the seams.

Look at that stitch-in-the-ditch!  I used my blind-hem foot to get the needle super close to the bound edge.  Love!!

The sleeves were fun to put together.  The seam for the front and back sleeves help to create the casing into which the ties are inserted. The ties are cut on the bias, sewn right sides together, and turned to the outside.  I had no problems using my loop turner to turn the tubes right side out.

This pattern is definitely a keeper!  I intend to make the long-sleeved version at some point later this year.

This is the third of four tops that I am making for a mini wardrobe.  I made a muslin for the Simplicity 8097, but I'm not feeling it.  If I have enough fabric, I will have another go at Simplicity 8014.

Here's my progress so far:

Tops

• Jalie 3245 - black & beige distressed knit (done)
• Burda 6426 - grey cotton chambray (done)
• Burda 6456 - white cotton burnout or grey cotton chambray (maybe)
• Burda 6425 - yellow rayon challis (done)

Bottoms

• Burda Style 4-2019-113 - black denim (done)
• McCall's 7906 - grey, white, yellow, black cotton (done)

Jacket

• Kwik Sew 3558 (done)

Dresses 

• Simplicity 8014 - grey & white linen (next)
• McCall's 7465 - black and white striped rayon knit
• Simplicity 8834 - yellow tencel (maybe)

That's all for now.  Next up is a review of McCall's 7906 and an update on my 2019 Make Nine plan.

L

Simplicity 2614 (top) & New Look 6274 (skirt): Complete

Rayon challis is evil.  I hated sewing with it from the moment I started.  It shifts.  It stretches.  It wrinkles.  I swear it called me a name.

Despite the frustrations of working with this fabric, I pushed through and finished the top.

 paired with New Look 6274

The verdict?  I like it, but I don't love it.  I'm just glad it's done.  It looks really cute on the dress form, but when worn the fit issues are amplified.

While I intended to wear the top without a jacket, it's unlikely that will happen.  The armhole isn't too low, but something is wonky with the neck tie; the back doesn't rest properly on the neck.  I suspect the problem is in the facings.

Here's the top paired with my latest version of Kwik Sew 3558:

Fabric & Notions

• 1.75 yards of rayon challis
• fusible interfacing for back & front facings
• regular and serger thread
• 65/9 universal needle

Fit & Alterations:  I first made this pattern in 2011 out of a stretch cotton poplin.  Although the first version is less fluid than this one, it's comfortable to wear and fits well.  Originally I cut a size 16 everywhere except in the bust area.  There, I cut a size 18 using the D cup piece.  I also lowered the bust seam two inches so that the gathers were properly placed.  I made no additional adjustments.

The back and lower front are to be cut on the bias.  Since my fabric was shifty enough, I cut both on the straight grain.  

Construction:  Since I was OVER this project before sewing the first stitch, I decided to hasten its completion by serging everything.  I was going to do french seams, but quickly ditched that idea in favor of the least swear-inducing option.  

Conclusion:  I do plan to sew this again, but not in rayon challis.  I have a UFO of this pattern in a dark grey cotton that needs work.  I'll finish that...eventually.

As for working with rayon challis, I'm willing to try it again ONLY after I find a way to tame it.  I have several rayon challis fabrics and I'd love to use them, but not if they cause this much trouble.  Bad challis.  Bad.

********

As for the New Look skirt, there's nothing new to report.  I sewed it like I did every other version of this pattern:  invisible zipper, lining, petersham at the waist.  The fabric is a polyester-nylon lace that I purchased from Joann's.  I was hesitant about the fabric at first because the lace started to pull away from its backing.  The fabric survived washing and pressing, so hopefully the garment will last.

Up next:  I bought some fabric and won a contest.  I can speak on those matters.  As for sewing, I have no idea. =)

Until next time, peace!

L