31 July 2011

Summer 6PAC: Update

I had to scrap one of the tops (V7903) for my summer 6PAC. Sometimes garments just don't work out - despite how the muslin fits. I really had high hopes for this since it would have been my first decent fitting button-up blouse. Alas, the quest continues...

Anyway, here's the ever-changing updated list and progress so far:

  1. black denim jeans (Jalie 2908) - done
  2. dark gray darted blouse (Vogue 7903)
  3. light yellow polka dot voile pintuck blouse (Simplicity 2365) - 80%
  4. yellow knit cardigan (Simplicity 2424)
  5. cream slinky cowl neck top (McCall's 6078) - done
  6. gray linen skirt with flounce (New Look 6897) - done
Although I'm almost finished with polka dot pintuck blouse, this project has not gone without its share of un-sewing and do-overs.


(S2365)

My machine perfectly stitched a buttonhole and then completely messed up the other buttonhole so many times that I lost count. I had to cut the tab and interfacing out three times before my machine finally decided to get with it.

Also, I don't know what I did wrong when sewing the other half of the collar stand. Aside from the topstitching (which can be fixed), see how nice the stand is on the left (garment right) side?



Da hell?! I have sewed and unpicked that other side so many times. I just can't get the curve to behave the same way. I notched the inner curve and took my time sewing it to the neckline. Does anyone have any tips on sewing collar bands?? Please, share! As soon as I get this together, all I need to do is set in the sleeves and sew the hem.

As for the failed blouse, I might replace it with another version of Simplicity 2614. I have plenty of the dark gray fabric. I just have to decide if I want it bad enough to start now or focus on sewing the fall 6PAC.

Speaking of which...

As I said before, the fall 6 (more like 10) PAC will be an extension of the summer plan in that I will incorporate the same colours (and garments) in the new plan. Here are the fabrics and intentions:



Top row:
  • yellow stretch cotton poplin - blouse
  • rayon-Lycra knit - top or dress
  • teal striped cotton shirting - blouse
  • yellow rayon-Lycra modal - cowl neck top (McCall's 6078)
  • teal acrylic knit - cardigan
Bottom row:
  • black stretch cotton twill - pants
  • teal worsted wool suiting - jacket (Jalie 2599)
  • wool tweed - skirt (New Look 6274) - done
  • dark gray wool suiting - skirt (Colette 1009)
  • black poly-wool blend - skirt (BWOF 09-2009-137)
I have other fabrics and patterns to include, but I will stick to this set first. Ultimately, I would like to sew the Lady Grey coat and I know it, along with the Jalie jacket, will take a lot of time to fit and sew.

Is anyone else planning to do a 6PAC? I saw that Carolyn posted her fall 6PAC intentions. Come on! Sew one, sew six! =)

L

29 July 2011

NL6274: Lining & Facing with Petersham

Attaching the Lining to the Zipper Tape:
This is actually quite simple. I used this tip found on Pattern Review. The tip works if you want to attach a facing, lining, or facing-lining combo to the zipper tape without any hand-sewing.

In the tip, Belinda says to let the facing/lining overhang the seam by 5/8" (1.5 cm). She included a picture of the overhang, but for some reason I can't wrap my mind around the photo or how the overhang factors in to sewing the facing/lining to the zipper tape.

1. Insert the zipper as usual and assemble the lining (facing or facing-lining combo). Arrange the shell and lining so that the right sides face in.



2. Pin the lining to the zipper tape right sides together. I sewed using a 3/8" seam allowance since I didn't quite understand the purpose of the overhang in the tip. This doesn't seem to be posing a problem.



3. Here the right sides are stitched.



4. Turn the lining to the inside so that wrong sides face. Baste



Facing the Waist with Petersham:
Most of the work is done in shaping the petersham to achieve a nice curve so that it molds comfortably around the waist. I used 1.5" wide petersham cut to a length equal to the circumference of my waist where I'll wear the skirt, plus about 2 inches for overlap.

1. Soak the petersham in hot water for a few seconds. Lightly pat dry.

2. Shaping the petersham requires a hot iron a bit of force. I anchored one end of the ribbon to my ironing board using glass-head pins.



3. Moving from one short end to the other, press and stretch one long edge while gently building in a curve on one edge. I don't know if there is a rule or something about how much curve should exist. I just winged it. I've done this twice and don't notice any difference. =)



4. Pin the non-stretched edge to the waist seamline. Since the shell and lining are basted, the seamline is easily visible. The stretched edge should hang off the top of the skirt. In this case, I found pinning parallel to the seamline gave me more stability and control. I was very careful to remove the pins before they reached the presser foot!



5. Edgestitch in place.




6. Turn the petersham to the inside and press, taking care to roll the seam in a bit.






finished inside

While these steps admitted take longer in sewing the skirt, the effort is well worth it. I think this skirt will wear well and last a while. I've worn the flounced skirt so many times already; I just love it.

I'm off to work more on my summer 6PAC. Update coming soon...

Be well!

L

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