Jeans #9 (Part 3 - back)

Before I get into part 3 (which is pretty short), I'd like to answer Natalea's question about the weight of my denim.  I like to use denim that weighs at least 12 ounces with no more than 25% stretch across the grain.  My second pair of jeans are made out of thin, lightweight denim and they don't have enough heft for my taste.  If you are purchasing denim online, definitely order a swatch first and make sure the fabric is heavy enough!

Back (30 minutes)

This part is really quick and simple.  The directions say to press the seam toward the back, but I pressed and serged mine toward the yoke.  I wanted the bulk of the seam to lay on the left of the flange on my blindhem foot so that I can topstitch first line.

As mentioned before, the seam allowances in this pattern are 3/8", so I don't cut off any fabric when serging.  If I did, I wouldn't have much on which to topstitch.

When topstitching this part, the garment is to the right of the needle.  I don't find it too much of a problem to handle.

This is all I have for now.  Next up is the construction of the front pockets.  There's a slight delay with proceeding, though.  I forgot to wash the pocket lining fabric with the last load of laundry and the water heater issue has not been resolved.  I might just wash it by hand so that I can keep going. I am really, REALLY trying to be Zen about this, though my patience is wearing thin...kinda like my second pair of jeans.

L

Jeans #9 (Part 2 - back pockets)

The instructions for J2908 are nicely divided into sections that feature the part of the jeans being made:  back pockets, back, front pockets, fly, side seams, belt loops, and waistband.  As I continue to document the process, I will follow this progression of construction and blog about each part separately.

Back Pockets (1 hour, 31 minutes)

Designing the back pockets of jeans is the most time consuming part of the process for me.  I spend a lot of time scouring the internet for images that I think are cool and easy replicate.  I've got some ideas about future pairs of jeans that may involve embroidery, hot-fix crystals, eyelets, and applique - not all at the same time!  Here, I only counted the time it took to physically draw the design, transfer it to the pockets, and sew.

1.  I made a copy of the back pattern piece and added seamlines (3/8").  

I also cut out a piece of transfer paper in the same shape of the pocket. This made it easier for me to ensure everything was lined up properly.

2.  Next, I free-handed a design onto the blank copy of the pocket and traced it with a serrated tracing wheel.

As you can see, I only traced one set of lines.  I used the guide on my presser foot to stitch the other lines. 

 3.  The fabulous Lisa of Sew On and Sew On posted a tutorial on how she preps and sews her back pockets.  I do mine a little bit differently.  Instead of stitching on the seamlines, I serge all of the edges and use this as my guideline.  The seam allowances on this pattern are 3/8" and while my serging is a bit more narrow than that, I don't have a problem folding over the necessary amount.  I also don't interface the top part of the pocket.  I haven't had a problem with the pockets stretching out, though this is something I will probably start doing on future pairs.

I didn't backstitch at the beginning or end of any line of sewing.  I know...I know...the horror!  I figure these edges are going to get turned under, pressed, and topstitched.  I think the stitches are pretty safe. =)

4.  Next I fold under 3/8" and press.  I am very generous with steam here because I want everything to stay nice and flat.  I also trimmed all of the loose threads.  Pin the pocket to the back at the marked dots.

5.  Whenever I topstitch, I use both a regular zigzag foot as well as a blindhem foot.  The blindhem foot has a little flange on the bottom that can be used as a guide along the edge of the fabric.  I sew the first line of topstitching with this foot and use the zigzag foot to sew the second line. 

To keep from having to change the foot often, I sewed the first line of topstitching for both pockets, then sewed the second line using the other foot.

6. I rarely put anything in my back pockets, but I still like to have a bit of security at the corners since they are points of stress.  To secure this area, I topstitch a little square through all layers.

7.  Finally I press both pockets with lots of steam to set the stitches.
 

That's as far as I've gotten with the jeans.  I still need to finish my Vogue skirt and whip up something for Faye's Top Sew Along.  Y'all know Faye hosts the best sew alongs, right?!

Time recap:

prep - 33 minutes
back pockets - 91 minutes

Total time:  2 hours, 4 minutes

Until next time, peace!

L