Burda 5-2011-113: womp womp

I had major high hopes for this pattern. The versions on Pattern Review are so cute and I LOVE Amanda's version. Alas, it was not to be for me and that's okay. Let's get on with the details of what went wrong.

 

  

Problem 1:  adding seam allowances to armhole princess seams 

I made the first muslin way back in 2021 and had a terrible time adding seam allowances to the armhole princess seams. I could not figure out how to properly sew what resulted in a comically long pointy end. I didn't know how far up (??) I was supposed to extend the seam allowances and it resulted in some weirdness when it came time to sew and press the seam to one side.

 

muslin from 2021

 

Eventually I figured that I can sew to the dot and leave the pointy end loose. Then just tack it down in the seam allowance of the armhole.

 

 

muslin from 2026

 

I started a topic on Threadloop seeking advice because I just knew there had to be another way. One member shared video and a website that explains exactly how to do it, so I am confident that I can properly add seam allowances...on a different jacket pattern. This one is done done.
 

Problem 2:  converting armhole princess seams to shoulder princess seams

 

In the middle of sourcing how to add the seam allowances, I decided to try and convert the armhole princess seams to shoulder princess seams. Members on Pattern Review shared some good tips and a link to an older blog post that showed how to do this. The problem with this pattern is that the side front panel is unusually narrow - at least more narrow than what I am used to.

 

If I were to follow the armhole princess line using this piece, the seam would fall on my side bust and that just doesn't look right at all.

 

So I created my own shoulder princess line on the center front panel which left the invisible waist dart unresolved. Since I love chocolate, I figured I would probably need the extra width and just left it alone.

 

 

I know I did not draw a proper waist curve (near the two pattern weights). In the end, it didn't really matter because the fit was off for other reasons. 

 

The other issue with converting to shoulder princess seams is the seam joining the back to the front is actually about two inches toward the back - and NOT at the shoulder. Not a problem, in theory. But in practice, I ended up with a weird curve in the pattern that doesn't look right or lay properly.

 

At first, I cut this piece off and added seam allowances at the shoulder line. But when sewing the muslin, all the extra seams in this area felt like too much. 

 

You can kind of see the curve near the top of the photo. Armhole princess seams would definitely be better with these design lines.

 

Problem 3:  the jacket is REALLY short 

 

I am five feet tall. Even after adding two inches in length, the un-hemmed jacket barely clears my bust. Dear reader, it is NOT a good look. The proportions are very off and it looks like football padding. It's weird. Very weird. I don't have any pictures because I threw the shell away. It was too much to keep looking at it and I needed immediate separation. 😅

 

Problem 4:  fabric is too lightweight 

 

The fabric I chose was a wool herringbone suiting from Fabric.com (RIP). Even with lining and interfacing, the fabric would've still been too light. This pattern benefits from something much sturdier like denim/twill or wool melton. I still have just under two yards of the fabric, so I'll make a vest or skirt with it.

 

Conclusion:  I will not revisit this pattern again. After two attempts spanning five years, it's safe to say this one isn't for me - unless I do a LOT more adjustments. There are other military-style jacket patterns that I can try for what could be a lot less hassle. Win some, lose some. The pattern pieces have already been recycled. 😎 

 

L 

The moment I said...

“…let me do these buttonholes real quick…”

 

I should have stopped. 

 

 

DEEP SIGH

 

I should know by now, after almost 20 years of sewing, that I should not sew anything “real quick.” Those two words are a recipe for a five-course meal of disaster. Ugh.

 

Let’s talk about this jacket. I was SO close to finishing. All I had left to do was hem the sleeves and add buttonholes/buttons. It was getting late and I wanted to do a bit of sewing before I retired for the night. 

 

Enter:  “Let me do these buttonholes real quick.”

 

The first buttonhole went mostly okay. My machine didn’t like the thickness, but it managed. The second buttonhole did not want to cooperate. It was too far from the edge and I had to stitch it twice. Even with stabilizer, my machine pitched a fit. 

I picked the stitches - thankfully the thread blends really well with the fabric because you can’t see the disaster that is the first two attempts. I stitched it a third time and let it go. Wasn’t going in for a fourth try. 

 

After I was satisfied with both buttonholes, I opened them with my chisel and…stared at the jacket.

SIIIIIIGGGGGHHHH.

 

I put the f*****g buttonholes on the wrong damn side. 

 

Listen. LISTEN. I was crushed when I realized what happened. The jacket was looking so good on the dress form. I had all these ideas for shirts and skirts to pair with it. Now it’s ruined. 

 

Okay, maybe I’m being dramatic. It’s not ruined, but it’s not what I want. Womenswear buttons right over left and that’s what I’m used to. Sure I can wear this, but I’m not going to be happy with it. 

 

And you know what? I had it pinned right over left on my dress form THE WHOLE TIME. 

 

See? "Real quick" always chooses violence.

And and and, even though I used smaller seam allowances, the jacket is still too small. It’s not going to button anyway. 

 

So off to Area 51 it goes. I’ll keep this for a few months and see if I like it later. Maybe I can try to save it by darning the buttonholes closed and sewing buttons on top. Or something. If not, off to the earthmound it goes. Or maybe a thrift store - if someone will take it. 

 

No more woven clothes for a while; I'll stick to knits for a bit.

 

And handbags. Rectangles and circles don’t need to be fit nor do they need buttonholes. 

L

Simplicity 2810 (jacket) & February Wrap Up

I first attempted this pattern in 2017 and was pretty stoked at my first woven welt pocket application.

 

Unfortunately, the jacket got sent to Area 51 on indefinite time out because of the collar/facing situation. There was so much bulk and twisty foolishness that I could not get this area to work or look anything close to right. Rather than tossing it, I kept it with the hope of returning to it later and trying again.

 

Well, later is here. 😁 I still have some work to do, but it's almost done. I need to hem the bottom/sleeves, hand-stitch the lining to the hem, add buttonholes/buttons.

 

  

Fabric & Notions:

• 2 yards of wool tweed
• 90/14 needle for shell; 70/10 microtex needle for lining
• fusible weft interfacing (collars, facing, all hems)
  
• scrap cotton for back stay
• 11" x 3" bias-cut fleece for sleeve heads
• cotton basting thread to temporarily secure the welt pockets
  
• dye-able buttons from the 1960s 😮 (my favorite part of this jacket!)
  

 

Size:  I cut size 16 in 2017; the first version is a tad small. I used the same pattern pieces, but sewed with smaller seam allowances. I tried it on throughout construction and the jacket is still a bit small. Ah well.

 

Construction:  I sewed almost all of the jacket on my Juki semi-industrial straight stitch machine. Let me tell you:  I never knew I wanted a straight-stitch machine until I had one! I am considering buying a full industrial machine because domestic machines just don't have the same piercing power. I'll still keep my other machine for specialty stitches (zigzag, blind, buttonholes, etc.), but I foresee Juki getting all the attention.

Back to the jacket...

I'll blind hem the jacket on my Babylock and sew the other hems by hand. All jacket edges were finished on the serger. Lining seams were stitched on the sewing machine and finished together on the serger as well.

Light Tailoring:  With all jackets and coats, I usually add a back stay for structure and fuse 2" strips of interfacing to the hems. Instead of sewing gathering stitches along the sleeve cap, I use bias-cut fleece. This serves two purposes:  (1) the bias cut gathers the sleeve cap automatically and (2), the fleece provides cap support and aids in shaping this area.

To reduce bulk in the collar/facing, I cut the interfacing without seam allowances before fusing. I think this helped to not make sewing this part a PITA like it was the first time.

 

 

 

I messed up one side of the collar (pictured above). Because I used a thread that blended TOO well with the fabric, I couldn't see the stitching line when it came to notching the curves. So of course I cut right through the stitching and only noticed it when I turned the collar right side out. There were three nice little holes looking back at me. I had to take a bigger seam allowance here to try and cover the holes. Meh. The fix isn't too visible, but I can tell the difference.

Dye-able buttons: Last year at one of many trips to my happy place, I found a button coloring kit from 1969.

 

Two kits cost maybe $0.50, so I bought them thinking they wouldn't go to waste if dyeing didn't work; I'd find a use for the buttons for sure. Besides, how much expectation can I have from a kit that was over 50 years old?

 

Well you know what? It worked!!

original color on top
dyed color on bottom

I picked the color on the card that came as close to the jacket fabric as possible (blue pencil points to the chosen color). It's kind of hard to see in this image, but the color on the card is in the peach family - just a little lighter.

 

 

Dyeing the buttons was quick and easy. On the back of the package is a series of color strips:   red, blue, and yellow. Based on the color choice from the front, sets of strips corresponding to that color are cut and boiled in 4 ounces (1/2 cup) of water for 10 minutes. The color I selected required 8 blue, 16 yellow, and 10 red strips.

 

 

Once 10 minutes have elapsed, the strips are removed and buttons are boiled in the tinted water for the time listed next to the color. My color required an additional 6 minutes. Lighter and darker shades require less and more boiling time, respectively.

 

 

The match is spot on!! The buttons are 1" and will be perfect for the front. They might be too big for the sleeve, so I'll have to decide what to do there.

 

 

I don't know if button color kits still exist, but if they do, I'm a believer. Hah!

 

***

 

February Wrap Up:

 

I am on track to finishing the second of two garments for this month. Life is still stressful and despite February having 84 days, I only managed to (nearly) complete two garments:

• another Simplicity 9385 in purple Merino wool
• this jacket

For March, I hope to make another Boronia Bowler (gift for a friend) and maybe start working on garments from my Make Nine. I'm trying to resist the urge to start something new before finishing this jacket. I am sooooo close!

 

L



 

Unintentional Endless Combinations Mini Wardrobe

Pattern Review occasionally runs a contest called Endless Combinations (EC). The idea is to create a wardrobe where each subsequent garment coordinates with the previous one.

An example from the 2016 contest rules (edited for clarity): 

1. Sew blouse A.
2. The next item, B, could be pants and must work with blouse A.
3. Item C must coordinate with item B. It could be another top or a jacket. It does not have to work with item A; if it does, that's a bonus.
4. Item D must work with item C. If you made a jacket for item C, item D could be a skirt, another pair of pants, or a top.

Of all of the wardrobe plans I've tried, I've had the most success with this and the Stitcher's Guild 6PAC. One time I sewed an 11-piece wardrobe for a contest. By the time I was finished, I was SO bored with everything that I stopped sewing for a few weeks. Plus I only wore maybe 2 or 3 of those 11 garments and gave the rest away.

Here are the garments I made using this idea. I didn't start with this intention; it just fell into place.

First I made Burda 2-2005-129.

I wanted another denim chambray shirt, so I made Ottobre 5-2012-7. I used a blue/white/red gingham scrap for the undercollar and inner collar stand, cuffs, and front band. 

Not really feeling the skirt's prairie vibe, I opted for something more structured and made Burda 1-2018-121.

Thinking this would look good with a short jacket, I made Burda 4-2008-107.

Finally I completed the set with Simplicity 8606 using a red floral polyester woven from JoJo. 

Here is a collage of all the possible combinations from the five garments.

Hands down my favorite looks are in the first and last columns. I just do not like the prairie skirt! I know I said I'll wear it at least once, but...uh...I'm not so sure about that anymore. The angled stripes just aren't doing the skirt any favors. Big ol' meh!

Added bonus: three of the five garments I made are a part of my 2020 MakeNine. Woot! If I ever get that tote bag done, I will be halfway-ish through the plan. Baby steps. =)

I will write a review of the Ottobre shirt and Burda jacket next.

***

I'm working on a shirt for #Faye'sTopsThatPop sewing challenge starting on 1 Jun. The color works with some garments I made at the beginning of the year and continues the spirit of Endless Combinations.

That's all for now. Stay safe everyone.

L

Kwik Sew 2895 & New Look 6274: Old Faves

This is my second version of KS2895 and the love is still here.  I first made it in 2014 and wear it all the time!  

Even though I bought the fabric especially for this pattern, I hemmed and hawed for A FULL YEAR on using it.  The denim is lighter in weight than the first version so I didn't think the fabric would provide enough heft to support the structure.  Turns out, the fabric is perfect!  The jacket isn't as heavy as the first, but it's ideal for spring days and summer nights.

I'll get pictures wearing it tomorrow...maybe.

The New Look skirt is nothing new since I've made it so many times.  I used one yard of non-stretch cotton sateen.  The skirt is lined with Bemberg and the waist finished with petersham.  Rinse.  Repeat. =)

These garments are part of an unintentional mini SWAP.  The colors are grey, white, and coral.  I don't know if that's spring-ish or not, but I like it so I'm making it. 

What's next?  I hope to finish the shirt that never ends - better known as McCall's 7627.  When Dressmaking Debacles said constructing the sleeves takes 317 hours, she was not kidding!  The sleeves....oy vey!

Here's what I have so far:

I know it looks like a hot mess, but there's actually a shirt under there.  I have to re-sew parts of the facing and sew in the sleeves.  I am totally slow-rolling this shirt because I am tired of sewing it.  Vicious cycle!

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace!

L

 

Mid-Year Wrap Up (pic heavy)

Whoa.  A blog post!  I had a busy first half of the year which involved working six days a week.  Alas, summer is here and now that I've caught up on sleep, I have been able to do some sewing.

So far this year, I've made 10 skirts, 4 tops, and 3 activewear bottoms.  That's 17 garments - 15 of which were made since May, occasional sickness notwithstanding.

Tops

Burda 6839

Surprisingly this is only my second successful woven Burda shirt.  Whyyyyyyyy did I wait so long to jump on this bandwagon?!  Save for bad button placement, this shirt fits very well with little adjustment.  I don't know why it looks so horribly wrinkled on the front.  The pattern is gathered on the side front, but I swear it doesn't look this bad on me.

Is that a tower placket?   Yes, yes it is.  A friend from work, who also sews, showed me step-by-step how to make it.  Man, this is so simple!  I will never do a continuous lap again.  Well...not on a shirt at least.

 New Look 6407

I've made this pattern a few times.  There's nothing new to say here; it's definitely tried and true.

 Kwik Sew 4201

I made this for a friend of mine.  Let me tell you, this was NOT easy.  The zippered neckline and weird non-inseam pockets were beasts.  Suffice it to say my self-less sewing quota has been met for the next two years.

A bunch of skirts

  New Look 6299

I wasn't feeling this at all after I finished it.  Having tried it on, I can see wearing it this summer.

I HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATE lapped zippers.  Hate.  I do not even know why I bothered with it this time. 

 

Simplicity 1072; scuba knit

Yeah, don't look too close at the fuckery that is the mismatched waistband.  SMH.  I worked hard to make sure this panel print was matched perfectly on the sides and completely forgot to cut the wasitband.  I had enough fabric, but not enough to match properly.  Oops.
 

 McCall's 6654

(left to right:  floral scuba knits, wool double knit, wool-blend double knit)

Again, there isn't much to add here.  This is a great pattern and a quick sew.  I made the first skirt in about an hour from cut to finish.  Each of these fabrics came from the Arts & Scraps fabric sale. 

BWOF 8-2011-127 (brown wool tweed)

This skirt is a wearable fail.  It's a bit big in the waist because somehow I neglected to add petersham as a stabilizer.  And the hemline is too narrow which makes using stairs an adventure. 

Stitch Magazine 2012:  pin-tuck skirt

Technically this isn't finished; I need to add petersham to the waist.  Don't ask me why I haven't brought myself to do it.

 New Look 6274

This is another great find from Arts & Scraps.  The fabric is polyester faille and sewed easily.  I made a blind hem, but clearly should have used a lighter thread.  Eventually I'll redo it.

 McCall's 7253

I made the first version of this last year and really love it.  This second version is just okay.  Despite taking deeper pleats and seam allowances, it's still big.  I haven't lost weight, trust me.  I just think the fabric has some mechanical stretch that I didn't anticipate.

Instead of stabilizing the waist with petersham, I added facings and bound them with self-made bias tape.  Oh and I bought some labels from the Dutch Label Shop.  I'm impressed with their quality and customer service.  I would order from them again.

Activewear

Having been inspired by Sheila (Sheila CTK), I wanted to up my activewear game.  To start, I made Jalie 3674 (Isabelle) and love it.  I sewed a straight size X for both versions, but I added a little bit more to the seam allowance to the one on the right.  I definitely plan to make several more versions.

I also made Simplicity 8212, though I don't have any pictures.  It's an okay pattern, but I think I'll stick with Jalie.

 In Progress

 Simplicity 2810

I started this back in May and am almost finished.  I got sidetracked for three reasons:  (1) I had several days of not feeling well (2) I need to re-cut the upper sleeve lining and (3) it's summer and who needs a long sleeved lined jacket?  SMH

But look at the welt pockets!

 

muslin of Simplicity 8295

I also started this in May.  I was discouraged by the slippery fabric and adjustments needed to make the back fit better.  I intend to finish it because I have the perfect fabric and hardware to make this look really good.

McCall's 6112 (middle view)

The fabric is cut, I'm just not motivated by the dark purple fabric I chose.  It's summer and I want to sew something bright.

Some patterns I want to sew

Simplicity 8379, McCall's 7465, Burda 6869, Grainline Archer

Cashmerette Lenox, Kwik Sew 4207, Cashmerette Concord

McCall's 6744, 

Not pictured:  Style Arc Stacie and Sally, Jalie Éléonore, Simplicity 8137

These are the patterns in my current queue.  Ambitious?  Yes.  Possible?  Maybe. =)

That's it for now.  This post has been in the works for the last month.   I had the intention to write, but not the desire.  Kna'mean? I hope to return to blogging more regularly.  We'll see.

Until next time, peace!

L