McCall's 7429 (knit dess)

I can check off another pattern from my infinitely long want-to-sew list.  

I can't remember who I saw make this pattern first, but when I did I knew I had to have it.  Twist front, mock wrap front, sleeves, and collar?  Score!

I read several reviews on PR and knew that the instructions for the twist were iffy.  So I watched Brittany Jones' video on YouTube first to get an idea of what to do.  The key to sewing this area is making sure all of the markings are clear, marked, and accurately sewn.  After watching the video, the instructions made sense.  It's hard to describe in words, so if you make this dress, definitely check out her video.

Fabric & Notions:

• 2.5 yards of polyester ITY 
• stretch needle
• wax tracing paper for markings
• sewing machine and serger

Size:  I traced size 14 in the neckline, shoulder; 14/16 in the armhole; and size 16 everywhere else.  

Alterations:  I did not do an FBA.  Whaaaat!  The front pattern piece looks like an amoeba and I didn't feel like trying to figure out where to draw the alteration lines or what to do with the dart. I wasn't particularly over the moon about the knit, so if the dress didn't work I wasn't going to be upset.

I made a swayback adjustment by taking out an inch from the back (from side to side).  I added the inch back in the hip area as a full seat adjustment.  

Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick (SBCC) wrote a post on the swayback adjustment.  While it's true I often have fabric pooling above my waist, I'm also short.  So the adjustment I make kind of (maybe?) solves two problems:  a too-long back-to-waist length and swayback.  It's an interesting read that I have to think about more.

Anyway...back to this dress.

Construction:  I used a small zigzag stitch (width 1.5, length 2.0) and serged the seams after they were sewn.

Sewing the dress takes some time because there are a few areas that need narrow hems and precise matching and sewing.   It's important to not skip or be lazy with these steps because the dress won't come together easily or as it should.  Aside from that and the twist, construction isn't too bad.

 

I gave zero thought to matching the "stripe."  Oddly enough, the back matches pretty well.  I bet if I had tried to match, it would be off somewhere. SMH

 

 

Even though I like it, the front wrap annoys me.  The concept is good, but the execution needs help; I hate how the wrap folds to the outside.  In a solid, this wouldn't be such a big deal.  But in a print where the wrong side is clearly different from the right side, this is very eye-twitchy.

 

I don't know if this is a result of bad sewing or bad design.  I looked at every review on PR and only saw one image where the front flipped out like this.  It's not the worst thing and the dress is wearable, but still.  Eh.

I didn't make any changes to the length and hemmed at the suggested allowance.  I think it looks good.

I already have fabric (navy rayon) ready to make a second version and I might make one more in animal print.

This is the third item from my MakeNine2019 plan.  Woot.  Three down, six to go!

I took a break from the MakeNine to make a pair of exercise pants.  My last pair could not be patched any more and needed replacing. 

I finally got a matching zipper for the Simplicity coat.  I am so close to finishing, but this coat is really trying my patience.  Grrrr...

I think the next thing I'll work on is the button-up shirt.  I want more dress shirts and I think this could be a good pattern with which to start.

Things are a little stressful 'round here so hopefully I will get back to sewing a little more often soon.

That's all for now.  Peace!
 
L