The Many Versions of Simplicity 9385

When this pattern was released last fall, I knew it was going to be popular. It's got sleeve, neckline, and bodice variations and makes for a great layering piece or main upper garment if the fabric is heavy enough. I made five versions of view C (third image from top on the pattern).

 

Fabric & notions:

• 1.5 yards of 60"-wide fabric
• 1/2-inch strips of fusible interfacing to stabilize the shoulder seams
• serger thread

Pattern:  View C uses 6 pattern pieces:  front, back, sleeves, lower band, collar, and sleeve cuffs.

 

Size:  I cut a straight 14 for each version. After making and wearing the first one (cream rayon lycra), I found myself always tugging on it. So be aware that view C is very short. 

 

I did a cheater FBA by adding one inch to the center front. I also lengthened the top an additional two inches. In the picture below, you can see the center front is extended three inches, tapering to two inches at the side seam. I suppose I could just cut the view with the longer length, but I like the look of the band and I think the longer version with the band might be too long.

The sleeves on this version are a bit long on me, so I removed an inch on versions 2 - 5. 

 

Construction:  I sewed each top completely on my serger. From cutting to finishing with no mistakes, this top can be completed in a couple of hours.

Fabric:  I used three different types of fabrics:  rayon lycra, medium-weight ribbed knit, and polyester brushed sweater knit.

cream rayon lycra

 

For me, the pattern is just okay in a light-weight fabric. The drape is nice and I would only wear it under a jacket, cardigan, or sweater.  Also sewing this was a bit of a pain. Don't get me wrong, I like rayon lycra, but this project in that fabric was annoying. Incidentally, one of my many 2021 fails was a second rayon lycra version of this pattern. 😏

medium-weight ribbed sweater knit

 

These are definitely my favorites of the bunch. The ribbed knits hold their shapes well and are quite warm without additional layers. I've worn both tops with skirts and jeans.

polyester brushed sweater knit

Using the brushed poly sweater knit was a happy medium between rayon lycra and the heavier ribbed knit. The fabric has almost the same drape as the lycra but with the structure of the ribbed knit. Sewing these versions was way less frustrating.

The camouflage knit feels lighter in weight and poorer quality than the animal print. So I guess not all poly brushed sweater knits are the same. I wore the camouflage top on Wednesday and it felt fussy. It also catches lint very easily; I suspect this version will pill and degrade quicker than the others.

Summary:  This is a great pattern to add to the wardrobe. It's not difficult to sew and has lots of variations and potential. I have a scrap remnant of purple Merino wool knit that I intend to color block with scraps of black Merino wool. I'll cut the bodice out of purple and use the black fabric for the cuffs, band, and collar.

I also might try some of the other versions. Some sewers mention a mistake with the sleeve pattern for version A (too long or something). Versions A and C use the same sleeve pattern. If I make the version with the extra long cuffs, I'll definitely shorten the sleeves some more.

That's all for now. I'm in a sewing rut at the moment. I have things that I'd like to sew, but energy and motivation are on the low end. I'll keep working on building the 2022 MakeNine. I have seven patterns, but don't see anything else that I'd like to add right now. Maybe the other two slots should be fabric. Hmm...

L