Simplicity 8014: It's been real.

I tried, y'all. I really did. I don't give up easily, though I do know when I've had enough. The time has come for me and Simplicity 8014 to part ways. 

 

 

I've tried to make it work several times using views D and B. It's weird because I usually have success with Simplicity patterns. Years ago, I took time to figure out my pattern size and necessary adjustments so I can cut right into the fabric without making a muslin. That was not the case with 8014.

First Attempts:  View D

I tried to make this view first. I cut size 16 and made a 1" FBA - which resulted in a huge horizontal bust dart. I tried sewing the dart, but it was too large to reconcile and I could never get it to not be pointy. So I re-did the FBA and converted the dart to shoulder princess seams.

 

This felt promising at the time, but it didn't pan out. Despite appearing to have enough room, it was still too small and I hated how it looked.

 

The fabric being a bit stiff probably didn't help. As you can see, I didn't bother putting in buttonholes. Suffice it to say, this went to the donation pile. 

 

That was in 2022. Fast forward to now.

 

Second Attempts:  View B

I have been wanting to make a fit-and-flare style dress for a while. Pattern Review shows multiple pages of versions made by others and I wanted one for myself. So I decided to try 8014 again. Deeeeeeep sigh.

Again I started with a size 16 and made an FBA. 

 

I was overconfident and cut into my fashion fabric only to find that like before, the big honkin' dart was unruly. So I had to get more fabric and re-cut the front. I don't have any pictures of that mess.

I made a second FBA and converted the dart to shoulder princess seams.

I cut into the fashion fabric again and realized that the princess seam was far too close to center front. It wasn't cute, y'all. 

So I did re-did the FBA a THIRD TIME. Told you...I don't give up easily.

 

 

The princess seam placement was much better and the fit was pretty good. 

 

I was finally happy and regained hope that this would be the one. I envisioned making multiple versions of this dress in a wide variety of fabrics.

😞

Then I started sewing. 

 

Issue #1:  order of construction

The instructions have you construct the front and back bodice along with the collar - then attach this to the completed front and back skirt unit. I understand why it's done this way. It's much easier to wrestle with only the bodice when attaching the collar rather than deal with the whole weight of the dress. I don't like doing it this way because it leaves little room for fitting as you sew. I prefer to sew the complete front, complete back, and then sew the side seams.

Ultimately I decided to follow the instructions. Were I to sew something similar to this again, I will go back to doing it my preferred way.

Issue #2:  front and black waist pleats

 

 

All this time, I thought these were vertical darts. The line drawings appear to show pleats, but if you're not looking carefully, they're easy to miss. 

Since I made shoulder princess seams, the front pleats and seam line were too close and it made for awkward sewing. Plus I didn't like how the pleats "poked out" at the waist; it's a weird look.

 

 

 The back pleats were fine - although still creating a bit of fullness.

Issue #3: front waist seam and band

 

 

In both views, the front button band is cut-on. That is, the band is folded twice and stitched down. This is all good if there isn't a seam breaking up the band.  Remember:  the bodice and skirt are constructed separately and then joined at the waist. About three inches of the band on the bodice and skirt are left un-sewn until after the side seams are sewn. Doing it this way, I found it nearly impossible to make the waist line even.

 

In the future, I will make a separate front band that is attached after the bodice and skirt are joined. This way, hopefully any unevenness won't be as noticeable.

 

 

I can hide the wonkiness with the belt. I've yet to wear the dress, so I don't know how well it will hold up.

Final Thoughts

Despite the many attempts and a few problems with construction, I like my dress. The fabric is stretch cotton sateen from Mood and the buttons are vintage from the stash. I'll wear it for sure, but I won't try 8014 again. Some patterns don't work and that's fine. Since making this dress, I've tried two other dress patterns that fit much better with less hassle. I'll share details soon.

Question:  Have you tried this pattern? If so, what was your experience?

 

Thanks for reading!

L