Finished: Burda 5-2006-119

This is the second of two shirtdress patterns that I tried recently in an effort to recover from the disappointment of Simplicity 8014.

 

 

Although this style of dress isn't the same as Simplicity 8014, it does have some similar features:  front-back yoke with forward shoulder seam and short sleeves with turn-up cuff. Bust shaping on the Simplicity pattern is done through darts and pleats whilst the Burda pattern has front shoulder princess seams and a center back seam. In this pattern, the front band is cut on and there is no waist seam.

 

I made view 119 with the shorter length of view 120 and without any pockets or the front self-fabric strap things.

 

 

Unless you look carefully at the photo, it's not immediately clear that there are separate pieces to cover the princess seam. I certainly didn't realize it until I reviewed the cutting diagram and read the instructions. Small sections are sewn to create the belt loops and in-seam pocket facings...or something (Burda instructions are famously terse). It's a neat design and I think it looks good on the modeled version. I didn't have the patience to put up with what I thought would be annoying to sew, so I didn't include it.

Fabric & Notions:

• 3 yards of stretch cotton sateen (Mood...y'all I need an intervention.)
• 9 x 5/8" metal shank buttons 
• shirt crisp light fusible interfacing (Fashion Sewing Supply)
• 1.5" gold metal belt buckle (Tandy Leather) 
• 4 x 4mm gold grommets
• strip of black vinyl fabric for belt 
  
• 80/12 universal needle
• regular sewing and serger thread
• scraps of tear-away stabilizer for sewing buttonholes
  

Sizing & Alterations:  I took flat pattern measurements of size 44 and compared them to my beloved TNT Burda shirt pattern.

 

 

It's an inch bigger across the bust, but that's alright. I cut right into the fabric and sewed 5/8" seam allowances. I didn't add a hem allowance and shortened the length 1 inch. For the hem, I folded and pressed 1 inch twice and topstitched.

General Construction Notes:  The fabric is a lovely stretch cotton sateen from Mood (link). Mood runs sales often, so it helps with the cost. The dark blue is not as dark as in the image, but still a nice rich color.

 

All seams were sewn on my machine, serged together, pressed to one side, and topstitched. I cut two yoke pieces and used the Burrito Method for a clean inside finish.

I wanted to look of the sleeves from Simplicity 8014 so I lengthened this sleeve pattern by 2 inches so that I could sew the folded tuck. I don't have a good photo of the sleeve.

 

My belt is a bit too long and could use another grommet - easy fixes for next time. I need to add belt loops to the dress and/or a loop in which to slide the end of the belt. As it is, it isn't secure.

Conclusion:  This is a good pattern and I can see making many more versions. I have a third pattern with more skirt flare to try next.

Other thoughts:  I wore the Simplicity 8014 dress yesterday and...well...let's just say I got one wear out of it this year. Although I really like how it looked, I didn't like how the waist area fit or constantly having to fiddle with it. 

This dress kicked off a mini nautical-themed wardrobe I am sewing for fall. The colors are white, yellow/gold, blue, and red. So far, I've sewn four total items (dress and three shirts) and have cut out two more shirts. I intend to make a couple of skirts, vest, and some pants to go along with all the tops. More on that soon!

L