Make Nine 2022 Results

Barring the major fail of Simplicity 8948, this is my most successful Make Nine ever. I finished eight of nine items! Although there were two mid-year substitutions (Oro Rosa Catalina for Magadelna and Simplicity 8601 for McCall's 7627), the new plan still included not-previously-sewn patterns. 

 

Favorites

Hands down, Vogue 9299 and Oro Rosa Catalina are tied for most favorite out of the plan. I love the Vogue tunic so much that I made it three times and intend to make a few more. The Catalina hand bag was so fun to make and I enjoy carrying it. I don't need more than one of this bag, but who knows? Maybe I'll try one of other views. 

 

Unsung Heroes

Initially I wasn't a huge fan of New Look 6698 because it was too big. I got lazy and cut a straight size 18 when I should have cut for my upper bust and made an FBA. In the end, I wore this a lot over summer and really like it. The sleeves are a bit awkward in length on me, but that's an easy fix. I'll definitely make this again and in the proper size.

 

Simplicity 8601 is also a winner. I was worried that the neckline facing would be uncooperative in rayon challis, but it's not a problem at all. I really like this shirt and intend to make another one in wool challis. 

 

Wearables

During a visit to Finland in 2019, I purchased a meter of bouclé with the intention of making a skirt and I did using Burda 2-2020-108.

 

There's nothing wrong with the skirt or fit. I deem it "wearable" because I've found it's been hard to find a top that pairs well with the colors in the fabric. I can always wear a blue denim jacket or white shirt. The purple knit slightly visible in the picture compliments the fabric but in a way that I don't quite like and I don't know why. =) I'll keep searching for other options.

 

New Look 6560 is also wearable but can be fiddly. Again, laziness got the best of me and I cut this without making an FBA. It's not possible to wear without a tank top because of major gaping along the surplice front. As with the other New Look top, I intend to make it again but with the proper adjustments.

 

The Ottobre Pea Coat is mostly finished, but it's not my best work. I will wear it for sure, but I know I can do (and have done) much better.  

 

Pardon the way it looks on the dressform. The coat is bigger than the form, so the fit isn't great. Actually, the fit isn't that great on me either despite spending a lot of energy on the muslin and making adjustments. Overall, I think the coat is just too big in some places and it looks kinda frumpy on me. Meh.

 

The buttons aren't sewn on yet because I'm still deciding whether to use snaps or make buttonholes. The snaps are sewn on, but I don't like how the thread is visible from the side view. I have some invisible thread and will sew on one snap to see how it looks. If I don't like it, then I'll make buttonholes.

I think I'll take it to the dry cleaner to have it professionally pressed. Maybe that will help with some of the wrinkles I can't get out on my own. As for the pattern, I'll write about it separately. This was a labor of love and I don't want to abandon it.

Disappointment/Fail

I am taking a break from Simplicity 8014. I think this was my third or fourth go at view D (without waist seam) and I just don't like it. I didn't laze out this time and made the proper FBA, converted to princess seams. I don't like anything about the dress and have already donated it. I didn't even bother putting buttonholes and figured someone else could wear it as a duster.

 

Simplicity 8948 just did not work and I have no intention to return to it any time soon.

 

***

That's it for Make Nine 2022. I think it's a success to have worked on everything in the plan and have six usable items. I definitely intend to participate in Make Nine 2023. I'm still working on the plan.

L

Make Nine 2022 Update

We're halfway through the year and my Make Nine is surprisingly (for me) going pretty well. I've managed to complete and/or work on 8 of 9 items. One of those items was muslined a few years ago, so maybe that shouldn't count. I re-read the instructions for the pattern so that's something, right?

Top Row

• New Look 6560:  I finished this a couple of months ago (mentioned briefly here). I really like the top, but definitely could have used an FBA. I'll definitely need to wear a camisole underneath and add a snap to keep the front from gaping.

• New Look 6968:  I really wanted to like this top after I saw some versions on IG and YouTube. The issue here is that it's just too big. I got lazy with not wanting to do an FBA (knowing full well that I need it) and cut a size 18 all around. The neckline/shoulder area is just too big for my frame and it shows. You can see the size of the neck opening on my dressform.
  

 

Each pattern size is printed separately, so there was no easy way to blend sizes. I'm sure I could have figured something out, but I chose haste over proper fit. Meh. I'll wear it a few times and probably let it go.

• Simplicity 8948:  This pattern has been in and out of rotation many times and I've finally taken time to work on it. I cut size 14 everywhere and made a 1-inch FBA, rotating the dart to the shoulder pleats. I also added a 1/2-inch broad back adjustment. I worked through a second muslin with the changes and don't think it looks that good. It's too tight across the back and something is wonky with the neckline pleats. So this pattern is a fail for now. I need to protect my fragile sewing mojo and working more on this is not a good idea. =)
  

Middle Row

• wild card (fabric purchased abroad): I bought a cut of bouclé from Eurokangas whilst in Finland in 2019. It has the most wonderful colors, but is also hard to match with other fabrics. Weird. This purple wool knit is the best I could find for now.
  

The skirt pattern is Burda 2-2020-108. I cut a size 42 and added one-inch side seam allowances (ended up not needing the extra room). I also cut two inches off the overall length because the skirt was too long for my height. The skirt is lined with rayon Bemberg and the waist is faced with 1.5"-wide petersham.

• Oro Rosa Catalina cross-body bag:  This was a replacement for the Oro Rosa Magdalena circle bag. I love this bag so much - even with all of its flaws. More thoughts on this bag and pattern are here.
  

• Ottobre 5-2011-11:  This is the pattern that was muslined some time ago. Like with New Look 6698, I tried avoiding an FBA by cutting a larger size. Given that this is a coat, having the extra room isn't a bad thing, though there are some areas (sleeves, side and center back) that can be taken in. I think I'll do a second muslin with a smaller size and an FBA.

Bottom row

• McCall's 7627:  This is the only pattern on this grid I've yet to tackle. I made view B  from this pattern in 2018 and wear it regularly. I'd like to make either view C or D, but after reading my old review, I'm not sure I want to fool the wrap-tie area again. I have to look at the instructions. If it looks like the same hassle, I will replace this pattern with something else.

• Simplicity 8014:  Welp, I've tried this version twice...no...three times and it's no for me.

I cut a size 16 and made a 1-inch FBA, converted to shoulder princess seams. Still, the bust is a bit tight and I'm over it. I think the fault here is in the fabric. It's a medium-weight chambray with no give and just not suitable for this design. I've already put this in the donation pile. Maybe someone can wear it as a duster.

• Vogue 9299, view B: I LOVE THIS TUNIC. OMG. Listen. I do not know what took me so long to make this. Well, that's not true. 😅 I was lazy with making the FBA. I've got it in my mind to just take the time and make the adjustment because I know I need it.

I traced a 14 in the neckline, shoulder, and upper armscye - transitioning to 16 in the lower armscye and everywhere else. I also made these adjustments:

• 5/8" FBA, converted to shoulder princess seams
• removed 1/2-inch in length between shoulder and bust (on front and back)
• removed 1/2-inch across the sleeve cap to match the last adjustment

I'm almost finished with a second version of this tunic. I'll write a second blog post about both versions when I've finished the second. Suffice it to say, I will be making many more tops/dresses from this pattern!

That's all for the update. I'm happy to have completed 2/3 of the grid so far. Ideally, I'd like to finish the pea coat before it gets too cold to wear it.

 

I'll probably switch gears to sewing for the upcoming PR Mini Wardrobe contest. The rules haven't been posted, but I'm sure there will at least be some combination of tops, bottoms, and perhaps a topper. I'm working on muslins of intended garments and will share some details soon.

(I don't know what's going on with the font formatting. Blogger can be finicky. Apologies if the text sizes are off.)

L

 

Make Nine 2022

I finally settled on some patterns for Make Nine 2022. It took me a while because on some subconscious level, I think I was apprehensive to create a plan for fear of life falling apart again after posting it. Plus there wasn't a pattern or project that was really drawing me in.

After thinking about it for some time and perusing social media and the internet for inspiration, I picked these patterns. All of them (except the handbag) have been in and out of the sewing queue and three have been attempted/muslined. 

Three tops:  New Look 6560, New Look 6698, and Simplicity 8948

 

 

There are so many great versions of of these patterns. I like the versatility and options of NL 6560. I bought a small cut of Ankara fabric specifically for this pattern.

 

I bought NL 6698 for the sleeves, though I don't know if this is a good style for my body type. 

 

Simplicity 8948 is classic and I love the cummerbund for waist-shaping. I have lots of rayon challis in mind for this, so hopefully the fit checks out.

Three dresses:  McCall's 7627, Simplicity 8014, Vogue 9299

 

McCall's 7627

 

I made view B (shirt with dramatic sleeves) a few years ago and still wear it. That same year, I saw view C (dress with cap sleeves) at a fabric store made in the most beautiful floral cotton sateen. I bought some of the fabric with the intention of making the dress that year, but...well...you know how it goes. 😬 Given that the bodice is already prepped, I think this can be a relatively simple and quick sew.

 

Simplicity 8014

 

This is holdover from Make Nine 2021. I tried sewing view D (modeled version) before, but it didn't work out (bad fabric and naughty big honkin' dart). I dug out the pattern pieces for this view and noticed that I converted the front darts to shoulder princess seams. I probably stopped working on it because I didn't want to be disappointed with it not fitting. I'm willing to give it another try.

 

I'd also like to make view B (top row, second image). I've seen lots of versions of this dress on different bodies and they all look good.

 

Vogue 9299

There's a sewer on IG whose versions of this pattern are absolutely gorgeous. She has an eye for pattern-fabric pairing and print placement that is truly inspiring. I don't know what fabric I'll use with this pattern, but I hope to make view B (tiered sleeve bands) at least twice. 

 

Ottobre 5-2010-11

 

This pea coat has been on and off the grid twice. I have the fabric and notions and even made a muslin a couple of years ago! I know what's stopping me:  there's no back neck facing so the coat is lined to the edge. I'm not a fan of this technique - even though I've sewn jackets and coats like this multiple times. I know how to make a back neck facing, I've just been too lazy to do it. I want this coat, so I need to make a decision already!

Oro Rosa Magdalena 

 

image source (not an affiliate link)

 

The one thing that is consistent with my Make Nine plans is the inclusion of a handbag. I really like making them and have given serious thought to bag-making. It's a huge investment that requires a lot of time, skill, and heavy-duty machinery (e.g., industrial walking foot machine). Before I go down that road, I have to see if I like it and can do it well enough.

I've sewn three different Blue Calla patterns and wanted to try other designers. I happened upon Oro Rosa patterns on Instagram and bought the Magdalena. I like small purses and think this would be a nice addition to my wardrobe.

 

Fabric purchased abroad

 

Any time I travel internationally, I try to get at least one cut of fabric to remind me of my visit. I've got fabric from the UK dating as far back as 2008. Uh...yeah. I should probably sew that up.

 

That's all for now. I'm working on a wool tweed jacket (Simplicity 2810) because of course this is the type of project to get the sewjo flowing again (read:  it's totally not). 😏

 

L