Maggy55 Ciara Cross-body Bag

On our trip to France and Spain in 2014, my friend and travel buddy carried a super cute Kate Spade cross-body bag. Despite knowing where she bought it, I could not find something similar; perhaps it was a limited edition bag or newly-discontinued. Fast forward 10 years and I still remember that bag! Since I started making handbags a few years ago, I was always on the lookout for a pattern that closely resembles the Kate Spade bag. The Maggy55 Ciara is closest I've found so far:

(image source:  maggy55patterns.com)

The general shape is the same - save for the zippered pocket on the front. 

Here's my version:

I waffled back and forth on whether to color block or not. Upon perusing the various versions made by others on the Maggy55 website, I decided to color block and am glad I did. I opted to make the white vinyl more dominant on the front so that the bag appeared brighter.

Fabric & Notions:

• ~ 1/2 yard slightly off-white vinyl
• ~1/4 yard black vinyl
• unmeasured cut of teal waterproof canvas for the lining
• ~22" #5 metallic nylon coil zipper (black tape, nickel finish) for the exterior closures
• ~7" #5 metallic nylon coil zipper (hot pink tape, nickel finish) for the interior closure
  
• 3 x #5 zipper pulls in nickel finish for both the exterior and interior closures
• 4 x 10 mm double-capped rivets
• 2 x 0.5" Chicago screws
  
• 2 x 1" O-rings
• 1 x 1" D-ring
  
• 1 x 1" swivel clasps
• 1 nickel "handmade" metal plate
• 1 nickel zipper end
  
• interfacing:  fusible woven, Decovil (light) 
• thread:  regular, heavyweight
  
• needle:  100/16
  
• feet:  standard, non-stick, narrow hinged zipper
• throat plate for thicker fabrics

Construction notes:  I sewed the bag completely on my semi-industrial with mostly no issue. Sewing the strap and strap connectors was the hardest because of number of layers involved. Once finished, there are eight (8!!!) layers of vinyl and that's...a lot. I didn't have rivets big enough to pierce through all of those layers, so I used Chicago screws.

 

The pattern came together fairly quickly. If I make this again, I'll be sure to choose vinyls of similar weight. The black vinyl I used is slightly lighter than the white and makes for a weird slouchiness that I wasn't expecting. 

 

Also because the weights aren't the same, I couldn't get a good even stitch on the back. There is only so much (read:  none) unpicking one can do with vinyl and I decided once was enough.

For the lining and interior zipper, I used bright colors for contrast. I had this polyester canvas (perhaps waterproof) fabric and I wanted to see how well it sewed and if I should consider using it more often for lining. I like it and can see using more of this instead of quilting cottons.

interior zippered pocket

This is my first time sewing a vinyl zipper overlay. Though it's not clear in this picture, I definitely need more practice with stitching this part.

 

interior slip pocket

I think I should have used coordinating thread here. It's not bad, but could look better.

 

I really took my time sewing this part because it's a focal point on the front I wanted to intersection to look good.

 

Instructions:  The instructions are very detailed and well-illustrated. There is a lot of information to take in and the bag designer does a good job of clearly explaining everything. There are also videos available for each major section of construction. Note:  the videos are only available with purchase of the pattern.

 

There were two minor issues:

1.    The instructions use *a lot* of double-sided tape.  A LOT. The designer used leather to construct their bag, so I suppose double-sided tape was necessary. I don't have a  problem with DST and have plenty on hand. I just probably could have gotten away with using a lot less on the vinyl.

2.    I think there is a better way to construct the straps that doesn't result in super thick layers. I don't think I can give specifics; suffice it to say if I make this again, I'll construct the straps differently.

Aside from that, the instructions and accompanying videos are great.

Hardware & Notions:  All of the hardware and notions were purchased from my regulars:   Wawak (thread, zipper tape, O-rings), Emmaline Bags (swivel clasp), Tandy Leather (rivets, Chicago screws) and JoJos (interfacing).

Conclusion:  This is my first Maggy55 pattern and I'm encouraged to make more. I have three of her patterns and intend to make them some time in the future. Some of the hardware is unique and I have to find a good source.

 

I wore it with my latest version of Vogue 9299. I have no idea if this matches, but *I* like it and am happy with how it looks.

The bag can be worn across the body or on the shoulder. To get the on-the-shoulder look, the strap is doubled, fed through the other O-ring, and connected to a D-ring on the other side. It's a clever design.

***

This is the first and only item I've made on my MakeNine 2024 grid. I traced the pattern for one of the shirts and almost immediately got bored with it. That's not a good sign. 😬

L

Make Nine 2022 Update

We're halfway through the year and my Make Nine is surprisingly (for me) going pretty well. I've managed to complete and/or work on 8 of 9 items. One of those items was muslined a few years ago, so maybe that shouldn't count. I re-read the instructions for the pattern so that's something, right?

Top Row

• New Look 6560:  I finished this a couple of months ago (mentioned briefly here). I really like the top, but definitely could have used an FBA. I'll definitely need to wear a camisole underneath and add a snap to keep the front from gaping.

• New Look 6968:  I really wanted to like this top after I saw some versions on IG and YouTube. The issue here is that it's just too big. I got lazy with not wanting to do an FBA (knowing full well that I need it) and cut a size 18 all around. The neckline/shoulder area is just too big for my frame and it shows. You can see the size of the neck opening on my dressform.
  

 

Each pattern size is printed separately, so there was no easy way to blend sizes. I'm sure I could have figured something out, but I chose haste over proper fit. Meh. I'll wear it a few times and probably let it go.

• Simplicity 8948:  This pattern has been in and out of rotation many times and I've finally taken time to work on it. I cut size 14 everywhere and made a 1-inch FBA, rotating the dart to the shoulder pleats. I also added a 1/2-inch broad back adjustment. I worked through a second muslin with the changes and don't think it looks that good. It's too tight across the back and something is wonky with the neckline pleats. So this pattern is a fail for now. I need to protect my fragile sewing mojo and working more on this is not a good idea. =)
  

Middle Row

• wild card (fabric purchased abroad): I bought a cut of bouclé from Eurokangas whilst in Finland in 2019. It has the most wonderful colors, but is also hard to match with other fabrics. Weird. This purple wool knit is the best I could find for now.
  

The skirt pattern is Burda 2-2020-108. I cut a size 42 and added one-inch side seam allowances (ended up not needing the extra room). I also cut two inches off the overall length because the skirt was too long for my height. The skirt is lined with rayon Bemberg and the waist is faced with 1.5"-wide petersham.

• Oro Rosa Catalina cross-body bag:  This was a replacement for the Oro Rosa Magdalena circle bag. I love this bag so much - even with all of its flaws. More thoughts on this bag and pattern are here.
  

• Ottobre 5-2011-11:  This is the pattern that was muslined some time ago. Like with New Look 6698, I tried avoiding an FBA by cutting a larger size. Given that this is a coat, having the extra room isn't a bad thing, though there are some areas (sleeves, side and center back) that can be taken in. I think I'll do a second muslin with a smaller size and an FBA.

Bottom row

• McCall's 7627:  This is the only pattern on this grid I've yet to tackle. I made view B  from this pattern in 2018 and wear it regularly. I'd like to make either view C or D, but after reading my old review, I'm not sure I want to fool the wrap-tie area again. I have to look at the instructions. If it looks like the same hassle, I will replace this pattern with something else.

• Simplicity 8014:  Welp, I've tried this version twice...no...three times and it's no for me.

I cut a size 16 and made a 1-inch FBA, converted to shoulder princess seams. Still, the bust is a bit tight and I'm over it. I think the fault here is in the fabric. It's a medium-weight chambray with no give and just not suitable for this design. I've already put this in the donation pile. Maybe someone can wear it as a duster.

• Vogue 9299, view B: I LOVE THIS TUNIC. OMG. Listen. I do not know what took me so long to make this. Well, that's not true. 😅 I was lazy with making the FBA. I've got it in my mind to just take the time and make the adjustment because I know I need it.

I traced a 14 in the neckline, shoulder, and upper armscye - transitioning to 16 in the lower armscye and everywhere else. I also made these adjustments:

• 5/8" FBA, converted to shoulder princess seams
• removed 1/2-inch in length between shoulder and bust (on front and back)
• removed 1/2-inch across the sleeve cap to match the last adjustment

I'm almost finished with a second version of this tunic. I'll write a second blog post about both versions when I've finished the second. Suffice it to say, I will be making many more tops/dresses from this pattern!

That's all for the update. I'm happy to have completed 2/3 of the grid so far. Ideally, I'd like to finish the pea coat before it gets too cold to wear it.

 

I'll probably switch gears to sewing for the upcoming PR Mini Wardrobe contest. The rules haven't been posted, but I'm sure there will at least be some combination of tops, bottoms, and perhaps a topper. I'm working on muslins of intended garments and will share some details soon.

(I don't know what's going on with the font formatting. Blogger can be finicky. Apologies if the text sizes are off.)

L