Complete: Jalie 3130 (shirt)

In theory, I really like this pattern and the shirt.  In practice, however, there are a few major errors that will likely not make this a regularly-worn item.   

Fabric & Notions:

• 2 yards cotton/linen chambray (stash)
• pro crisp fusible shirt interfacing (from Pam Erny)
• 10 shell buttons (stash)
• regular sewing and serger thread
• 80/12 universal needle

The issues:

Size:  Jeanne (founder of Jalie) recommends one pick the pattern size according to the full bust measurement.  Having been measured by her in the past, she suggested that I always use a size Z (B41-W35-H44).  My favorite jacket pattern (Jalie 2559) is made in size Z and fits beautifully with little to no adjustments.  (The only thing I do is narrow the shoulders by sewing a deeper seam when attaching the side front and front panels).  So I thought a size Z would work in this pattern.  Yeah, no.

The first issue is that the size Z is way too big in the waist and hips.  I had to take near inch seam allowances below the bust just to make this not look like a sack.

The second issue is that the size Z isn't quite big enough at bust level.  What I should have done was cut according to my high bust measurement and make an FBA.  

The FBA I would need isn't large, maybe 5/8" or so.  But still, it's definitely needed.  There is terrible gaping at bust level and weird pulling above the bust.  This brings me to the next problem...

Buttonhole spacing:  I totally screwed this up.  When I mark buttonholes, I place one at bust level first, and then space the rest accordingly.  This was a huge fail.

I don't know what happened, but the bust-level button is in the wrong place and I neglected to include a button on the collar stand.  My dress form is a little smaller than me, so it doesn't look too bad in this photo.  But on me, it's terrible.  There is unsightly gaping at bust level - the kind that definitely needs a safety pin.  Ugh!  I'll probably never wear the top buttoned.

Vertical & horizontal darts:  I know full well that I need to use princess seams, but I decided to give the darts a try anyway.  Big ol' nope.  This pattern definitely has promise, but it won't be realized until I convert those darts to princess seams.  I plan to make this again because it has good bones, but I will take the time to do it right.

Seam finishes:  The directions make no mention of how to finish the seams.  Definitely think about this before cutting out the pattern.  Since the sleeves are rolled up, whatever seam finish you use will be visible on the outside.

 Of course, I didn't realize this until after I started assembling the sleeves.  The seam allowance was only 3/8" so there wasn't even enough room to try french seams.  Ah well.  Next time, I'll add 1/4" to the sleeve seams (at least) so that I get a better finish on the outside.

Pockets & full bust:  I've read plenty of commentary about chest pockets and a full bust.  The resounding opinion is to avoid them at all cost.  Well, I ignored this and sewed them anyway. =)  On the dress form and on me, they don't look too bad, though I might bring them a little closer to the center front next time.

Collar stand:  I'm getting better at attaching the collar stand.  I used this tutorial which works quite well.  My topstitching on the outside, though, is a hot mess.  I'm glad the collar is big enough to hide it!

Collar points:  I'm also trying to improve my point-turning skills.  I tried Pam Erny's tutorial on making perfect collar points. 

With more practice, I think this will be my go-to method for collar points.  I still have some work to do, but this is the pointiest collar I've made so far.

***

Everything went together smoothly.  All of the notches matched and there were no issues with the pattern or instructions.  The issues were all user error!

I will get some pictures of me wearing the shirt next week.  It's really a good pattern and I can see making it a few times - once I've fixed the bust area.

Up next:  I'm working on Simplicity 1199, view D (second version modeled).

 This is a new style for me, so we'll see how it goes.  I didn't make a muslin either.  Hah!

Until next time, peace!
 

L

BWOF 4-2009-101 (skirt) & NL 6407 (top): Complete

Yaaay!  Notwithstanding the BWTF instructions, the skirt turned out nicely!  Sewing it wasn't as bad as I initially thought.  Plus it's super comfortable to wear.  Score!
 

Fabric & Notions

• 1.125 yards of black and white wool tweed (stash)
• 1.125 yards of black Bemberg Ambiance lining (stash)
• strips of fusible interfacing for the zipper area
• 7" invisible zipper
• petersham for waist facing
• two metal buttons
• 80/12 needle for shell
• 70/10 microtex needle for lining
• regular sewing and serger thread

Size and Pattern Alterations:  I traced and cut size 44.  The only alteration I made was the standard 1.25" full seat adjustment.  The skirt back has two pieces:  center and side.  I added 1.25" in length across the entire center back and added the same length to the side back, tapering to zero at the side seam.

Here you can see that the back hangs lower than the front.  When worn, the view from the side shows a level hem.  If you have a badonkadonk, this alteration is a must!  Aside from this, I made no other changes.

Instructions:  For such a simple design, the instructions for attaching the yoke made zero sense.  I played around with the pieces for a bit and used Sharon's wonderful tutorial to attach it successfully.  

 

The buttons are not functional as I didn't see the need.  The skirt has a side seam zipper, so why make buttonholes?

I don't know how the inside was supposed to be finished.  The pattern has a back facing (cut on the fold) and two front facings.  Again, this makes absolutely no sense.  In the picture above, the back facing and one side facing would extend from the right front princess seam (left facing in the photo) around to the side seam zipper.  Fine.  But what about this other facing piece?  It's too big to fit in the space between the zipper and left front princess seam (right facing in the photo).  

Seriously.  What?

I didn't bother with the facings and just finished the waist with petersham.  It isn't as sturdy as I would like, but it's finished and holds well enough to wear.

 side seam:  back on left; front on right

 front

  close up of side front

 invisible zipper

Sewing/Lining:  Sewing was pretty  straightforward.  I underlined the entire skirt because I wasn't sure how to attach the lining with the front yoke piece.  If I had devoted some time to thinking about it, I'm sure I would have figured it out. =)  I was so over the whole yoke thing that I just wanted to skirt done.  In the end, I like that the underlining gives the fabric some heft since the tweed was a little on the thin side.

Once the lining was basted in place, I serged the raw edges and stitched as normal.  All seams are pressed open.  

Conclusion:  This pattern is a nice take on an a-line skirt..  I don't have any immediate plans to make it again, but I can see one or two more in the rotation; maybe out of linen for summer.

***

As for the New Look top, there's nothing new to show here. =)  I started this top back in August and finally finished it a few days ago.  The fabric is stretch cotton poplin from the stash.

Man, stretch cotton poplin is right up there with rayon challis in its evilness.  I like the shirt, but it's as stiff as a board, loves to attract lint, and wrinkles like crazy.  I'll wear it, but I don't think it'll be in the regular rotation as much as my other versions.  The only thing that's saving this from being a wadder is the interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.  That stuff is stiff too, but you get nice crisp collars and cuffs from using it.  Stretch cotton poplin, you have met your match.

***

Currently, I'm working on my second try at the Burda trench skirt.  Yes, there is a "trench skirt."  

This early-year wadder was due to fabric choice.  I had a lovely light grey twill that would have been perfect for a jacket.  As a skirt, it's just too heavy.  Here's a sneak peak of the next version:

I have to finish the waist, hem, and buttonholes.  More details soon!

Until next time, peace!

L  

   

Another New Look 6407

This makes four this year!

At the end of August, I started sewing a black version of this pattern to go with my Starting from Scratch wardrobe.  Then I saw the rules for the PR Sewing Bee.  Sew a fitted blouse?  For real?  

Not only did I already have the pattern pieces out, the fabric was pre-washed last year.  Score!  

The first change I made was to raise the neckline one inch.  This top is quite low-cut and puts the girls on full display.  Unless I'm wearing a jacket, I have to wear a camisole with it.  Raising the neckline solved this problem.

The first three versions all have cap sleeves and I wanted long sleeves.  I made a one-half inch bicep adjustment and did not make a muslin.  Nope.  Nada.  I just went for it.

I used Pro-WOVEN Shirt Crisp interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.  This stuff is expensive compared to Pellon, but it is fantastic for giving nice structured collars and cuffs.

Speaking of cuffs...these joints were a pain to put together.  The opening was a fraction too small for my machine's free arm, so I had to sew very slowly and carefully.  Topstitching took some maneuvering, but eventually it worked out.

The shirt looks okay without a belt, but I'll probably wear one anyway.  Here I've paired it with a dark brown linen skirt, animal print belt, and scarf.  Good dark colors for fall.

Even though I love this pattern and have another one in the mix, I wish it had a separate front band instead of a facing.  I'm going to try and use the pattern pieces from this pattern to adjust those of Butterick 5678.

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace!

L