In theory, I really like this pattern and the shirt. In practice, however, there are a few major errors that will likely not make this a regularly-worn item.
Fabric & Notions:
- 2 yards cotton/linen chambray (stash)
- pro crisp fusible shirt interfacing (from Pam Erny)
- 10 shell buttons (stash)
- regular sewing and serger thread
- 80/12 universal needle
The issues:
Size: Jeanne (founder of Jalie) recommends one pick the pattern size according to the full bust measurement. Having been measured by her in the past, she suggested that I always use a size Z (B41-W35-H44). My favorite jacket pattern (Jalie 2559) is made in size Z and fits beautifully with little to no adjustments. (The only thing I do is narrow the shoulders by sewing a deeper seam when attaching the side front and front panels). So I thought a size Z would work in this pattern. Yeah, no.
The first issue is that the size Z is way too big in the waist and hips. I had to take near inch seam allowances below the bust just to make this not look like a sack.
The second issue is that the size Z isn't quite big enough at bust level. What I should have done was cut according to my high bust measurement and make an FBA.
The FBA I would need isn't large, maybe 5/8" or so. But still, it's definitely needed. There is terrible gaping at bust level and weird pulling above the bust. This brings me to the next problem...
Buttonhole spacing: I totally screwed this up. When I mark buttonholes, I place one at bust level first, and then space the rest accordingly. This was a huge fail.
I don't know what happened, but the bust-level button is in the wrong place and I neglected to include a button on the collar stand. My dress form is a little smaller than me, so it doesn't look too bad in this photo. But on me, it's terrible. There is unsightly gaping at bust level - the kind that definitely needs a safety pin. Ugh! I'll probably never wear the top buttoned.
Vertical & horizontal darts: I know full well that I need to use princess seams, but I decided to give the darts a try anyway. Big ol' nope. This pattern definitely has promise, but it won't be realized until I convert those darts to princess seams. I plan to make this again because it has good bones, but I will take the time to do it right.
Seam finishes: The directions make no mention of how to finish the seams. Definitely think about this before cutting out the pattern. Since the sleeves are rolled up, whatever seam finish you use will be visible on the outside.
Of course, I didn't realize this until after I started assembling the sleeves. The seam allowance was only 3/8" so there wasn't even enough room to try french seams. Ah well. Next time, I'll add 1/4" to the sleeve seams (at least) so that I get a better finish on the outside.
Pockets & full bust: I've read plenty of commentary about chest pockets and a full bust. The resounding opinion is to avoid them at all cost. Well, I ignored this and sewed them anyway. =) On the dress form and on me, they don't look too bad, though I might bring them a little closer to the center front next time.
Collar stand: I'm getting better at attaching the collar stand. I used this tutorial which works quite well. My topstitching on the outside, though, is a hot mess. I'm glad the collar is big enough to hide it!
Collar points: I'm also trying to improve my point-turning skills. I tried Pam Erny's tutorial on making perfect collar points.
With more practice, I think this will be my go-to method for collar points. I still have some work to do, but this is the pointiest collar I've made so far.
***
Everything went together smoothly. All of the notches matched and there were no issues with the pattern or instructions. The issues were all user error!
I will get some pictures of me wearing the shirt next week. It's really a good pattern and I can see making it a few times - once I've fixed the bust area.
Up next: I'm working on Simplicity 1199, view D (second version modeled).
This is a new style for me, so we'll see how it goes. I didn't make a muslin either. Hah!
Until next time, peace!
L
