Burda 5-2011-113: womp womp

I had major high hopes for this pattern. The versions on Pattern Review are so cute and I LOVE Amanda's version. Alas, it was not to be for me and that's okay. Let's get on with the details of what went wrong.

 

  

Problem 1:  adding seam allowances to armhole princess seams 

I made the first muslin way back in 2021 and had a terrible time adding seam allowances to the armhole princess seams. I could not figure out how to properly sew what resulted in a comically long pointy end. I didn't know how far up (??) I was supposed to extend the seam allowances and it resulted in some weirdness when it came time to sew and press the seam to one side.

 

muslin from 2021

 

Eventually I figured that I can sew to the dot and leave the pointy end loose. Then just tack it down in the seam allowance of the armhole.

 

 

muslin from 2026

 

I started a topic on Threadloop seeking advice because I just knew there had to be another way. One member shared video and a website that explains exactly how to do it, so I am confident that I can properly add seam allowances...on a different jacket pattern. This one is done done.
 

Problem 2:  converting armhole princess seams to shoulder princess seams

 

In the middle of sourcing how to add the seam allowances, I decided to try and convert the armhole princess seams to shoulder princess seams. Members on Pattern Review shared some good tips and a link to an older blog post that showed how to do this. The problem with this pattern is that the side front panel is unusually narrow - at least more narrow than what I am used to.

 

If I were to follow the armhole princess line using this piece, the seam would fall on my side bust and that just doesn't look right at all.

 

So I created my own shoulder princess line on the center front panel which left the invisible waist dart unresolved. Since I love chocolate, I figured I would probably need the extra width and just left it alone.

 

 

I know I did not draw a proper waist curve (near the two pattern weights). In the end, it didn't really matter because the fit was off for other reasons. 

 

The other issue with converting to shoulder princess seams is the seam joining the back to the front is actually about two inches toward the back - and NOT at the shoulder. Not a problem, in theory. But in practice, I ended up with a weird curve in the pattern that doesn't look right or lay properly.

 

At first, I cut this piece off and added seam allowances at the shoulder line. But when sewing the muslin, all the extra seams in this area felt like too much. 

 

You can kind of see the curve near the top of the photo. Armhole princess seams would definitely be better with these design lines.

 

Problem 3:  the jacket is REALLY short 

 

I am five feet tall. Even after adding two inches in length, the un-hemmed jacket barely clears my bust. Dear reader, it is NOT a good look. The proportions are very off and it looks like football padding. It's weird. Very weird. I don't have any pictures because I threw the shell away. It was too much to keep looking at it and I needed immediate separation. 😅

 

Problem 4:  fabric is too lightweight 

 

The fabric I chose was a wool herringbone suiting from Fabric.com (RIP). Even with lining and interfacing, the fabric would've still been too light. This pattern benefits from something much sturdier like denim/twill or wool melton. I still have just under two yards of the fabric, so I'll make a vest or skirt with it.

 

Conclusion:  I will not revisit this pattern again. After two attempts spanning five years, it's safe to say this one isn't for me - unless I do a LOT more adjustments. There are other military-style jacket patterns that I can try for what could be a lot less hassle. Win some, lose some. The pattern pieces have already been recycled. 😎 

 

L 

The moment I said...

“…let me do these buttonholes real quick…”

 

I should have stopped. 

 

 

DEEP SIGH

 

I should know by now, after almost 20 years of sewing, that I should not sew anything “real quick.” Those two words are a recipe for a five-course meal of disaster. Ugh.

 

Let’s talk about this jacket. I was SO close to finishing. All I had left to do was hem the sleeves and add buttonholes/buttons. It was getting late and I wanted to do a bit of sewing before I retired for the night. 

 

Enter:  “Let me do these buttonholes real quick.”

 

The first buttonhole went mostly okay. My machine didn’t like the thickness, but it managed. The second buttonhole did not want to cooperate. It was too far from the edge and I had to stitch it twice. Even with stabilizer, my machine pitched a fit. 

I picked the stitches - thankfully the thread blends really well with the fabric because you can’t see the disaster that is the first two attempts. I stitched it a third time and let it go. Wasn’t going in for a fourth try. 

 

After I was satisfied with both buttonholes, I opened them with my chisel and…stared at the jacket.

SIIIIIIGGGGGHHHH.

 

I put the f*****g buttonholes on the wrong damn side. 

 

Listen. LISTEN. I was crushed when I realized what happened. The jacket was looking so good on the dress form. I had all these ideas for shirts and skirts to pair with it. Now it’s ruined. 

 

Okay, maybe I’m being dramatic. It’s not ruined, but it’s not what I want. Womenswear buttons right over left and that’s what I’m used to. Sure I can wear this, but I’m not going to be happy with it. 

 

And you know what? I had it pinned right over left on my dress form THE WHOLE TIME. 

 

See? "Real quick" always chooses violence.

And and and, even though I used smaller seam allowances, the jacket is still too small. It’s not going to button anyway. 

 

So off to Area 51 it goes. I’ll keep this for a few months and see if I like it later. Maybe I can try to save it by darning the buttonholes closed and sewing buttons on top. Or something. If not, off to the earthmound it goes. Or maybe a thrift store - if someone will take it. 

 

No more woven clothes for a while; I'll stick to knits for a bit.

 

And handbags. Rectangles and circles don’t need to be fit nor do they need buttonholes. 

L

When the Wedge Fails

I thought my first post of 2013 would be about my fabulous jacket.  But since the right sleeve is really determined not to set it self correctly, I'm going to write about something else. 

This is Joanna Coles, the "Tim Gunn" of Project Runway All-stars, season 2.  Normally, I like what she wears, but this skirt is not working for me.  Do you see that?  Why would anyone want to do that?  I try my best to prevent my clothes from splitting at the seams.  Why in the world would it be encouraged at the waist?  Sure, her pose is exaggerating the split, but day-um!

That split dart thing is not cool.  After grabbing some more screen shots, I noticed that it actually stands away from the body.  When I first watched the episode, I thought it was an unfortunate attempt at color-blocking.  Um.  No.  It's like the split of a hem, only at the waist.

The fact that the skirt is too tight at the hip does not help the situation at all. 

I don't think there's much else for me to say.  Joanna, darling, I am not a fan.  Not that you would care what I or anyone else thinks.  Just know that I am in no rush to knockoff this look.

Would you wear this skirt?

Sometimes it's just not meant to be.

After my full seat alteration fail, I washed and dried more denim fabric to try V8426 again.  I just don't think this project was meant to happen right now.  I pressed out the wrinkles on the wrong side (this is an important fact) and laid out all of my pieces to cut.  When I started to pin the front pieces together in an attempt to sew, I just stared at the CF piece.  There is very noticeable and permanent vertical line traveling down the length of the piece.  Yes, you guessed it:  it's the fold line from the fabric.  I hate Joann's.  Really, I do.  Had I noticed it at the store, I never would have bought it.  Had I noticed it when I pressed out the wrinkles, I would have moved the CF in 5/8" and added a seam.  I thought about topstitching on the line, but I'm not sure how that will look since the other seams will be "raised."  I don't have enough width to cut on the line and make a seam since the skirt felt a little snug to begin with.  Sigh.

I am so done.

L