Knipmode 06-2016-20 (skirt): complete

I can't remember if I first saw this skirt on Westmoon's blog or on PR (maybe in a thread started by Westmoon).  But when I saw it, I knew I had to have it.

Look at all the seams!  Maybe I shouldn't be this excited over a pencil skirt, but I am.  Topstitching and color-blocking potential?  What's not to like?

Getting an copy of this magazine took some effort.  While in Europe recently, I visited newsstand after newsstand in each city and could not find it anywhere.  In fact, I didn't see any Knipmode, MyImage, or La Mia Boutique magazines.  It was only during the layover in Amsterdam and after a 15 minute hike through different parts of Schiphol Airport did I *finally* find a bookstore that carried it.  I hugged the magazine like it was MY PRECIOUS.

Not too shabby.  I like it...buuuuuuut...it's too big.  I fault myself for not fully trusting the measurements and the stretch of my denim.  I've not sewn with a Knipmode pattern before (despite having a few magazines) and was not familiar with their draft.  The skirt is wearable, but I will always need a belt.

Fabric & Notions:

• 1.375 yards of stretch denim (stash)
• strips of interfacing for the center front zipper
• stretch interfacing for the other waistband (probably not needed)
• 20" separating zipper
• sewing machine, topstitching, and serger thread
• 80/12 universal and 100/16 topstitching needles

Sizing/alterations:  I traced a straight size 44 based on my hip measurements.  I added 1" seam allowances to the side seams and 2" to the center front.  I also made a 1.25" full seat adjustment - a standard for me with skirts.

The pattern is designed for stretch bottomweights and I should have used this fact when picking a size.  I ended up sewing 1.5" seam allowances and also removed the extra 2" from the center front.  Next time, I will take flat pattern measurements and proceed from there.  

Instructions:  Since the magazine is in Dutch, I consulted good ol' Google Translate for help.  For the most part, the instructions aren't really needed.  The seams are labeled with letters and general construction makes sense.  

The only part of the instructions that was confusing involved attaching the waistband.  If the translation was correct, you were supposed to attach one front waistband to one back waistband and then sew this to the completed skirt.  Whut? 

Yeah I didn't do that.  I did this: 

1. Assembled the front and back completely.
2. Attached interfaced outer back waistband to skirt back.
3. Attached interfaced outer front waistband to skirt front.
4. Installed zipper in skirt front.
5. Basted side seams to check fit.
6. Sewed side seams.
7. Assembled inner waistband (front and back).
8. Attached to outer waistband.
9. Understitched.
10. Topstitched.

 
Sewing:  I used my usual 3-machine hook up for sewing, serging, and topstitching.  I interfaced the zipper area for stability.  Hmm...what else?  That's it really.  I paid attention to the modeled version to determine the direction in which to press the angled seams.  Aside from that, sewing this skirt wasn't difficult.

I'm happy with the skirt and will certainly wear it.  If I make it again, I'll consider the sizing more carefully.  

I wonder how this would look in a stripe.  Hmmmm...

***

The Epic Abbey Coat by Jamie Christina is coming along quite well.  I am now working on the sleeves and I admit I am nervous.  I've never done a continuous lap before and my fabric is t h i c k.  

I think I can finish the coat in time to submit it for the Natural Fibers Contest on PR. I need to face my fear and just do the friggin' sleeves.

L

 

Many Works in Progress

What does a short attention span in sewing look like?

This photo shows three projects all in progress:  two skirts and a fall/early winter coat.

It's not my fault, I swear.  Maybe a little.  See what had happened was...I saw that PR was running a skirt contest this month.  No problem! I can make a skirt in less than a month.   I really like my trench skirt and figured I could make it again and that it would be a good entry for the contest.

So I found some fabric and started cutting everything out on Saturday.

The tricky thing about contests is that they have...um...rules...and I neglected to read them before cutting the fabric.  Apparently, wrap skirts of any kind are not allowed.  Siiiiiiiigh.  I GUESS this is a wrap skirt - even though the use of buttons as a closure is allowed.  I don't get it but am still too sleep-deprived to argue.  Here the skirt sits in all its unfinished glory:

Still determined to participate in the contest, I traced and cut the only skirt to appear in this month's issue of Knipmode.

I am almost finished with it - except for the zipper.  And waistband.  And belt loops.  And hem.  Okay so I'm not almost finished.  But I can't go much further until I get the zipper.  I am not following the instructions because (a) they're in Dutch and (b) the order doesn't make sense.  So the skirt will sit (or hang) until I get the right size zipper.

Plus I'm debating whether to re-do the back topstitching.   Right now the seam is pressed to one side and topstitched.  But this makes the V look off center.  Maybe I should have topstitched on either side of the seam to achieve balance.  Meh.  If I have time, I will re-do it.  Maybe.

The third project in sewing limbo is a fall/winter coat.  What sparked this idea in the middle of two skirt projects?  Another contest!  PR is also running a natural fibers contest this month.  I bought this lovely wool melton from Kashi at Metro Textiles last summer with the intention of making this coat:

  Jamie Christina:  Abbey Coat

I was so excited about it last year that I made a muslin and all of the pattern adjustments.  Then pffft.  I gave up on doing all of the work.  Since the outerwear contest isn't until October this year, I thought it would be a good idea to get this coat made now since I'd like to be wearing it in October.

The contest ends on 30 Jun which means I have 23 days to get it done.  I want to go all out with hair canvas, padstitching, and other tailoring techniques.  No bound buttonholes, though.  I really don't have time to learn or do that. =)  I am either crazy or ambitious for trying to do this in three weeks.  I think I can make it happen if I focus and not waste time. That's a BIG IF!

Here the fabric is hanging to get some air before I steam press it.  I suppose I should go make the adjustments to the lining pieces and start cutting this out!

I will try to blog the process and sewing of the coat.  It will certainly be an epic endeavor!

That's all for now.  I need to get started on tracing and altering the lining pieces for the coat.  

L