Many Works in Progress

What does a short attention span in sewing look like?

This photo shows three projects all in progress:  two skirts and a fall/early winter coat.

It's not my fault, I swear.  Maybe a little.  See what had happened was...I saw that PR was running a skirt contest this month.  No problem! I can make a skirt in less than a month.   I really like my trench skirt and figured I could make it again and that it would be a good entry for the contest.

So I found some fabric and started cutting everything out on Saturday.

The tricky thing about contests is that they have...um...rules...and I neglected to read them before cutting the fabric.  Apparently, wrap skirts of any kind are not allowed.  Siiiiiiiigh.  I GUESS this is a wrap skirt - even though the use of buttons as a closure is allowed.  I don't get it but am still too sleep-deprived to argue.  Here the skirt sits in all its unfinished glory:

Still determined to participate in the contest, I traced and cut the only skirt to appear in this month's issue of Knipmode.

I am almost finished with it - except for the zipper.  And waistband.  And belt loops.  And hem.  Okay so I'm not almost finished.  But I can't go much further until I get the zipper.  I am not following the instructions because (a) they're in Dutch and (b) the order doesn't make sense.  So the skirt will sit (or hang) until I get the right size zipper.

Plus I'm debating whether to re-do the back topstitching.   Right now the seam is pressed to one side and topstitched.  But this makes the V look off center.  Maybe I should have topstitched on either side of the seam to achieve balance.  Meh.  If I have time, I will re-do it.  Maybe.

The third project in sewing limbo is a fall/winter coat.  What sparked this idea in the middle of two skirt projects?  Another contest!  PR is also running a natural fibers contest this month.  I bought this lovely wool melton from Kashi at Metro Textiles last summer with the intention of making this coat:

  Jamie Christina:  Abbey Coat

I was so excited about it last year that I made a muslin and all of the pattern adjustments.  Then pffft.  I gave up on doing all of the work.  Since the outerwear contest isn't until October this year, I thought it would be a good idea to get this coat made now since I'd like to be wearing it in October.

The contest ends on 30 Jun which means I have 23 days to get it done.  I want to go all out with hair canvas, padstitching, and other tailoring techniques.  No bound buttonholes, though.  I really don't have time to learn or do that. =)  I am either crazy or ambitious for trying to do this in three weeks.  I think I can make it happen if I focus and not waste time. That's a BIG IF!

Here the fabric is hanging to get some air before I steam press it.  I suppose I should go make the adjustments to the lining pieces and start cutting this out!

I will try to blog the process and sewing of the coat.  It will certainly be an epic endeavor!

That's all for now.  I need to get started on tracing and altering the lining pieces for the coat.  

L

 

Pictures of IJ740 & Jean-style Jackets

Here are some photos of me wearing the coat.  I am so happy I ditched the belt!

These pictures were taken outside of the pottery studio.  I wanted to have a background that looked kind of rustic so that the coat really stood out.  These photos were also taken by the studio owner and my teacher, Mike.  Thanks Mike!  

I'm in the process of completing my review for the contest and will submit it shortly.  Wish me luck!

********

Thank you for sharing your thoughts about jean-style jackets and fit.  I also emailed Kenneth D. King and asked for his thoughts.  He pretty much said what everyone else said:  it's a matter of personal preference, though he prefers the centers front to meet or else it looks as if the jacket doesn't fit properly.

I stopped working on the Cynthia Rowley (S2443) pattern.  After making four muslins for the front, I decided it wasn't worth it.  It's a cute jacket, but I don't want to fuss with something that may not even be flattering.  Instead, I started sewing Kwisk Sew 2895 and hope to have it finished before Monday. 

Until next time, peace!

L

Okay, So It's Not My Signature

Remember this?  

 

Doesn't this look like a heart and a cursive capital letter L?  Love, L.  Awww...

There's more where that came from:

I bought the fabric at the end of April completely excited about making the coat.  But when I got it home, I was disappointed to realize just how stiff it was.  I mulled taking it back because it really, REALLY would have been a pain to work with.

I had a small swatch and washed it to see if that would help.  The swatch softened up a bit, but I wasn't sure if I could trust the whole piece to soften in the same way.  So I sat it on a shelf in my sewing room and left town. 

After thinking about it some more, I decided that I was going to return it once I came home.  The fabric was around $17/yard (on sale) and I didn't want to waste the money.  Who has time to sew a coat out of cardboard?  What is this, an unconventional challenge on Project Runway?  Nerp.

Then it happened.

I saw someone walking around Sydney wearing a coat with a pattern very similar to the fabric. Cardboard be damned:  I was making this coat!

I put the whole 2.5 yards in the washing machine with detergent and a little bit of fabric softener.  I also put it in the dryer on the low-heat setting.  Ah-ha!  Success.  The fabric softened very nicely.  Although it still had elements of its former cardboard life, it was MUCH easier to handle and sew.

I probably should have washed and dried it a couple of more times.  However, I noticed that this fabric picks up lint and fuzz balls like a raging dust buster.  Another wash or two and I may have been completely discouraged from the project.

Pattern:  The pattern is Indygo Junction 740.  I made this in August of last year and LOVE it.  Wearing this coat makes me happy, so why not double that good feeling? =)

Fabric & Lining:  Just like last time, I used upholstery fabric purchased from...wait for it...Joann's!  I almost never buy fabric from them because it's icky and expensive - can't be both.  Occasionally I'll find a good piece or two.  Most of the time, though, I don't.

The bolt label said that the fabric is 70% polyester and 30% cotton.  I think the off-white base is polyester and the thread for the swirls is cotton.  The fabric is two ply with both plies held together by all of the stitching.

The lining is black flannel-backed Kasha..  I love this stuff; it sews and presses nicely.  

Tailoring:  I included the same techniques as before:  sleeve heads; back stay; and fusible interfacing on the front, side front, facings, and all hems.

Construction:  I finished all edges of the shell first, then pressed them open with a clapper.  Since the fabric was bulky, this was the only way to get nice, flat seams.  

I hemmed the coat using a blind hem and ivory-colored thread. 

I also added side seam pockets.  This is something I didn't do on the first version and I wish I had. 

Murphy's Law demands that I will set one sleeve at least three times.  It happens with every jacket/coat.  The right sleeve went in perfectly with no puckers.  The left sleeve just would NOT cooperate.  I was one minute away from hemming the coat when I looked at the sleeve and took it out...again.  I set it two more times and pressed the hell out of it.  Meh.  It's marginally better, but still not quite right.

Ugh.  The wrinkles!  It's the sleeve head; I think I pulled too tightly.  I'm not setting this sleeve for a fifth time because the sleeve cap is already stretched out.  Any more fuss and I'll have to replace the whole sleeve.  Y'all know that's not happening. 

I added some of the same sea foam green piping between the facing and lining.

As for the picture on the right, we will not speak on the franken-fabric meld that occurred to make this part work.  I have no idea what happened with the facing assembly, but trust me  it is a hot mess in there.  Fortunately the fix can't be seen from the outside.  I just hope it holds!

Other Stuff:  

The buttons are ceramic and handmade by moi.  For the pottery folk, the glaze fired to cone 6 and is called Palladium by Amaco. The color looks black, but it's really a dark metallic silver.  Yum!

I got the collar roll right this time, Rachelle!  On the first version, despite trimming the under collar and cutting it on the bias, the collar would not roll.  I made sure to encourage the roll more aggressively on this one.

I made a belt, but I didn't like it.  Something about it just didn't feel like the first version.  Even if I were to sew a button onto the belt, I still wouldn't like it.  So, I took the belt loops off and chucked the belt.  The coat has no shaping, but that's okay; it's a coat!  It's not supposed to be form fitting.

This will be my entry into Pattern Review's Outerwear Contest.  I didn't even know it was going on until recently. 

I hope to take pictures wearing the coat later this week.  I want to get prettified and have the photos taken outdoors.  Kinda goes with the spirit of the garment, ya know?

Up next:  I have a couple of things in queue.  I want a denim jacket after seeing (and drooling over) Valerie's version of Butterick 5616.  I made a muslin of Kwik Sew 2895 and Simplicity 2443, but they don't fit.  Surprise, surprise.

Random non-sewing comment:  Anyone else watching 24:  Live Another Day?  I used to be ALL IN with 24.  Since season 6, I've started comparing the number of times Jack says "Damn it!" to the number of times I say, "This is stupid."  So far, I'm winning. 

Until next time, peace!

L

Preliminary Pictures

I am 95% complete with my garments for the mini wardrobe.  I have stalled with the silk charmeuse top.  It's completely constructed sans binding for the armholes and neckline.  I ordered some hug snug rayon seam binding and am waiting for its arrival (expected tomorrow or Thursday).  I didn't want to use cotton-poly bias tape because I thought it would be too heavy for this fabric.  But if push comes to shove, get outta my way!

In the meantime, here are a few photos of the completed garments.  I will probably take new pictures because these are so blurry.  Anyone have any tips for taking better photos?

Top:  Simplicity 2599

Hmm.  Yes, new pictures are definitely in order.  Hopefully I'll be able to finish by Saturday!  I have plans for Sunday and would really rather not wait until the last minute to submit my entry.

That's all for now.  Be well everyone.

L

One Down, One to Go!

I need to open the button hole and add the tack.

If I work really, really hard (i.e., at all), I should be able to finish by the deadline.  Thank goodness!  Then I can resume working on my jacket and SWAP.

More later...

L