KS 3764 (Moto Jacket): Complete

I sewed like mad on Sunday and finished the jacket.  

I haven't worn it yet because the lower edge is uneven and I don't know how to fix it.  I've removed the stitches twice, clipped carefully, and pressed the hell out of this area.  It's still wonky and it annoys me.  Also, I don't know why the lower right edge is longer than the left edge.  I've seen this on other motorcycle jackets, so maybe this is how it's supposed to be.  I doubt that.

Fabric  & Notions

• 2 yards medium grey cotton denim
• scraps of grey lining for pockets and sleeve facings
• grey polyester sewing and topstitching thread
• fusible interfacing for upper collar and facings
• walking foot
• 90/14 universal needle for regular sewing and 100/16 denim needle for topstitching

Fitting & Alterations

I started with a size medium based on the last Kwik Sew jacket I made.  I didn't make a muslin, but I should have.  Since I got such a good fit with Kwik Sew 3558, I thought I could just lay the pattern pieces for that jacket on top of the pattern pieces for the moto jacket.  Wrong.  The bust area is tight and the back is too long and too wide.  I started to cut out the shorter version of this pattern but decided against it because I thought it would be too short.  I was wrong.  Boxy jackets are not suitable for my figure and if I decide to wear one, it needs to be short and end at just below my waist.  This jacket hits at my full hip and it's not flattering.

I suppose I could just lop off three inches and add the band anyway.  No wait, I can't do that either.  The jacket has a separating zipper and I'd have to find a way to keep from pulling the tab off.  Well, I guess I have my answer!

Judging by the side and back views, you can see that I need an FBA and some narrowing of the back.

Construction

Zippers

Opting for aluminum teeth was the right thing to do.  They match and compliment the jacket color perfectly.  I wish I had taken more time to practice installing the zippers, though.  The openings are not as neat as they could/should be - despite picking them apart a few times.

Collar

Against my better judgment, I cut the under collar as instructed:  on the fold and in the same size as the upper collar.  I KNEW this was a mistake and it shows.  The under collar should be cut on the bias and 1/8" smaller on the long and side edges.  This helps to encourage turn of cloth.  Yeah.  I didn't do any of that and my cloth doth not turn.  I pressed and rolled until my fingers were scorched.  No deal.  Next time I will do what I know to be right and save my fingertips.

Sleeves

As per the instructions, I sewed the sleeves in flat.  The sleeve is drafted with little ease in this area and sewing them in flat posed no problems.

Epaulettes

I'd like to add the epaulettes, but I can't find the rest of the pieces for the snaps.  They're somewhere in this house - hiding out.  The only thing I don't like about this is that the epaulettes are attached after the collar is sewn.  You're supposed to topstitch them to the shoulder seam.  Hmm.  Looks kind of tacky.  Had I carefully read through the instructions beforehand, I would have noticed this and attached the epaulettes before adding the collar.  I suppose it's not big deal since the collar covers the attachment area.  But still...

Zipper Facing on Sleeves & Gusset

The pattern piece for the zipper facing is way too narrow.  After sewing the facing right sides together, you're supposed to turn it to the inside and press.  After the zipper is installed, then you need to sew the gusset to the edges of the facing.  There is hardly any room to do this neatly.  In the future, I suggest making the sleeve facing at least twice as wide so that when it's time to attach the gusset, you actually have something to sew on!

Topstitching

The pattern instructs you to topstitch around the edges of the front and collar.  I tried to do this, but my machine was having FITS with topstitching thread in the bobbin.  Normally I use regular thread in the bobbin, but since I'm topstitching all around, the bobbin thread would eventually end up on top once I fold back the collar.  Meh.  I'll figure something out.   

Conclusion
In all, I like the jacket and will certainly wear it.  I'll make another motorcycle jacket, but probably not from this pattern.  I need something which much more shaping, like Style Arc's Ziggi jacket or one from BWOF. 

Many thanks to Kyle for helping me secure the zippers.  They truly make jacket sing!

Up next:  I have no idea.  I'm in limbo on what to sew next. 

Until next time, peace!

L

KS3764: Moto Jacket Update

My sewjo was working the last couple of days and I made a lot of progress on the jacket.  I put in the pockets, zippers, and attached the collar and facings.  That doesn't sound like a lot, but given how things have been the last three weeks, this is a lot!

I thought I might be able to finish the jacket in time to wear it on Monday.  Then it happened.  Damn you Murphy's Law!

Looks okay, right?  Wrong.  I sewed the right side of the zipper facing to the wrong side of the sleeve.  Of course I only realized this just as I was about to turn the facing to the inside and press.  I did this on both sleeves.  Good job genius.  I have no excuse; I just wasn't paying attention to what I was doing. 

Fortunately, this isn't too hard to correct.  I carefully unpicked the stitches, lined up the cut edges right sides together, and restitched the facing in place.  Though I had to use a lot of steam, I was able to get the facing turned to the inside and pressed pretty well.  I don't have a picture yet; I'll wait until after I've inserted the zippers.

That's all I have for now.  If I'm not too tired tomorrow, I'll work on installing the zippers on the sleeves and then sewing them in.  The instructions have the sleeves sewn in flat.  I'll give it a try, but if I don't like it, I'll set them in the round with sleeve heads.

Until next time, peace!

L

Kyle (Vacuuming the Lawn) is Awesome!

Remember these mismatched zippers?

The motorcycle jacket zipper issue is resolved!  On a recent visit to NYC, Kyle contacted me to see if I wanted her to check Pacific Trimming for zippers with aluminum teeth.  She compared photos of the zipper tape, found coordinating zippers, and had them cut to size.  How sweet is that??  With many thanks to Kyle, I can resume work on the jacket AAAAND have matching zippers.

Kyle, you are the best!

I hope to have some progress made in the next couple of days.  I haven't been sewing lately due to work, fatigue, and a quick trip to the east coast.  Details on that coming soon!

L

Moto Jacket Update: Zippers...Argh!

Note to self:  aluminum is not the same as nickel.  Yep.  It says so right there on the old periodic table.  When the metals are used for zipper teeth, the difference is more than obvious:  it's "one-of-these-things-is-not-like-the-others obvious.  I don't know if you can see the difference, but I can and it annoys me.  Sigh. 

So what are my options?  First, the aluminum zipper is staying in.  It took me FOUR tries just to sew the zipper stop at the top.  After I finally got that on, I installed the zipper and topstitched it in place.  This is my first time installing a separating zipper and I am quite pleased with the final result.  I am not unpicking that shit. 

I've given some thought to what else I could do to make this jacket happen:

Option 1 - Order two more 24" zippers from Wawak and shorten them to the lengths required for the pockets and sleeves (which is 6").  I've never added a pull tab or metal stops to an already-existing zipper, so this will be new to me.  In addition to buying more zippers, I would also have to get zipper tops, bottoms, pull tabs, and pliers and then watch YouTube videos to see how to put these things on.

Wawak has a shorter 10" aluminum zipper made for slipcovers and pillows, but the zipper tape only comes in natural.  Yeah, like pillows can't be any other color than natural.  SMH

Option 2 - Try to order the zippers from Zipperstop.  The reason I didn't order from them in the first place is because the only two zipper tape colors they had were black and navy.  There's a note that says any other color requires a minimum 50-unit order.  I will call them to see if they would be willing to make an exception.  If not, then this option isn't happening.  What am I going to do with 50 6" aluminum zippers?  Exactly.

Option 3 - Try Joann's or my other local fabric store.  I doubt Joann's will have what I'm looking for; that's why I didn't go there in the first place.  I will call the local fabric store to see if they have what I need.  Their zipper supply is pretty thin, so I'm not too optimistic.

Option 4 - Skip the zippers on the sleeves and pockets altogether and save that idea for the second version of this pattern.

If option 2 doesn't work out, then I'll probably just proceed with option 4.  I really don't feel like building a zipper from scratch.  It's a shame, too.  This jacket would have been totally bad-ass with all the shiny metal.  The aluminum just goes with the grey denim.  It really does.  Now the jacket just looks pitiful.

I have light blue denim that I was going to use to make another pair of jeans.  I think this fabric will make a cute moto jacket with brass zipper teeth.  For now, it looks like version one will be plain and simple.

L

Moto Jacket & Mystery Project

Thanks everyone for commenting on my zipper question.  Some preferred brass with lighter tape, others said black with brass will give make the jacket pop, while others said the silver will blend nicely.  These are all excellent points - which leave me no closer to a decision! 

These three comments pretty much tied the whole thing together:

Christiana writes:  "I like the dark tape as well. I'd take it a step further and go with a gold topstitching to pull it all together." 

SarahLiz writes:  "I think Judith is right - are you going for a dark and dramatic look, or a more blended, subtle, look. Also, what do you have to wear it with? That might help decide the choice too."

AnnaChristina writes:  "I like the light zipper with brass teeth, but I think silver would also be sharp. I think the fabric could be dressed up or down with the more subtle look."

I hadn't even thought about topstitching or how this jacket was to be worn and coordinated with the other garments I have.  Duh!  I was so fixated on the zipper color that I completely neglected the basic function of the garment.

So with everyone's comment in mind, I gave the jacket a second look.  I selected a few colors for topstitching and placed the garment next to another top that's currently in progress. The more I looked at everything, the less I liked the brass teeth.  The grey fabric has a washed effect and I couldn't be settled with the pop of gold.  Of the three colors I used for topstitching ( dark grey, light grey, and black), he one that stood out the most was the one that could be seen the least:  dark grey.  So I have decided to go with....drumroll...silver teeth!  I like the idea of being able to dress the jacket up or down and think starting with a more subtle look is better.

I haven't started sewing the jacket because the first thing to do is to put in the separating zipper - something I do not have, yet.  I can cut and fuse the interfacing, but until I get the zippers, there's not much else I can do.  In the meantime, I started another project using this fabric:

This print is wild and SO not me!  I was nervous about buying it because it's not something I would normally wear.  I'm going to keep the details under wraps until I finish it. Unfortunately, this project is stalled as well because I don't have a notion that I need to proceed.  I'll order it when I order the zippers.  Until then, you're free to make a guess!  Hey Kyle!  Shhhh...don't tell anyone. =)

L

 

Gold Teeth: Yea or Nay?

No.  I am not getting a grill. 

I'm talking about the zipper teeth on my planned denim motorcycle jacket.  The denim is grey, but the zipper teeth are brass.  Wawak has aluminum zippers long enough for the front, however none short enough for the sleeve vents and pockets.  Zipperstop has aluminum zippers in the sizes I'd like, but I've never ordered from them before.  

I googled some images of grey denim jackets.  Most have black zippers with black teeth.  I spotted this lovely and think the silver looks pretty good.  I might try to knock this off in a future version of this pattern.  It doesn't look too hard to do - except for maybe the quilted sleeve caps.

As a reference, I pinned in a couple of zippers I had on hand.  If I do go with brass, I think the lighter-colored tape looks better than black. 

Hmm...now I like the brass.  Ugh!  I've already cut out the fabric so this jacket is happening.  I just have to decide.  Do gold and grey go together?  Would silver be too obvious a choice?

Waaaah.  What do you think? =)

L