KS 3764 (Moto Jacket): Complete

I sewed like mad on Sunday and finished the jacket.  

I haven't worn it yet because the lower edge is uneven and I don't know how to fix it.  I've removed the stitches twice, clipped carefully, and pressed the hell out of this area.  It's still wonky and it annoys me.  Also, I don't know why the lower right edge is longer than the left edge.  I've seen this on other motorcycle jackets, so maybe this is how it's supposed to be.  I doubt that.

Fabric  & Notions

• 2 yards medium grey cotton denim
• scraps of grey lining for pockets and sleeve facings
• grey polyester sewing and topstitching thread
• fusible interfacing for upper collar and facings
• walking foot
• 90/14 universal needle for regular sewing and 100/16 denim needle for topstitching

Fitting & Alterations

I started with a size medium based on the last Kwik Sew jacket I made.  I didn't make a muslin, but I should have.  Since I got such a good fit with Kwik Sew 3558, I thought I could just lay the pattern pieces for that jacket on top of the pattern pieces for the moto jacket.  Wrong.  The bust area is tight and the back is too long and too wide.  I started to cut out the shorter version of this pattern but decided against it because I thought it would be too short.  I was wrong.  Boxy jackets are not suitable for my figure and if I decide to wear one, it needs to be short and end at just below my waist.  This jacket hits at my full hip and it's not flattering.

I suppose I could just lop off three inches and add the band anyway.  No wait, I can't do that either.  The jacket has a separating zipper and I'd have to find a way to keep from pulling the tab off.  Well, I guess I have my answer!

Judging by the side and back views, you can see that I need an FBA and some narrowing of the back.

Construction

Zippers

Opting for aluminum teeth was the right thing to do.  They match and compliment the jacket color perfectly.  I wish I had taken more time to practice installing the zippers, though.  The openings are not as neat as they could/should be - despite picking them apart a few times.

Collar

Against my better judgment, I cut the under collar as instructed:  on the fold and in the same size as the upper collar.  I KNEW this was a mistake and it shows.  The under collar should be cut on the bias and 1/8" smaller on the long and side edges.  This helps to encourage turn of cloth.  Yeah.  I didn't do any of that and my cloth doth not turn.  I pressed and rolled until my fingers were scorched.  No deal.  Next time I will do what I know to be right and save my fingertips.

Sleeves

As per the instructions, I sewed the sleeves in flat.  The sleeve is drafted with little ease in this area and sewing them in flat posed no problems.

Epaulettes

I'd like to add the epaulettes, but I can't find the rest of the pieces for the snaps.  They're somewhere in this house - hiding out.  The only thing I don't like about this is that the epaulettes are attached after the collar is sewn.  You're supposed to topstitch them to the shoulder seam.  Hmm.  Looks kind of tacky.  Had I carefully read through the instructions beforehand, I would have noticed this and attached the epaulettes before adding the collar.  I suppose it's not big deal since the collar covers the attachment area.  But still...

Zipper Facing on Sleeves & Gusset

The pattern piece for the zipper facing is way too narrow.  After sewing the facing right sides together, you're supposed to turn it to the inside and press.  After the zipper is installed, then you need to sew the gusset to the edges of the facing.  There is hardly any room to do this neatly.  In the future, I suggest making the sleeve facing at least twice as wide so that when it's time to attach the gusset, you actually have something to sew on!

Topstitching

The pattern instructs you to topstitch around the edges of the front and collar.  I tried to do this, but my machine was having FITS with topstitching thread in the bobbin.  Normally I use regular thread in the bobbin, but since I'm topstitching all around, the bobbin thread would eventually end up on top once I fold back the collar.  Meh.  I'll figure something out.   

Conclusion
In all, I like the jacket and will certainly wear it.  I'll make another motorcycle jacket, but probably not from this pattern.  I need something which much more shaping, like Style Arc's Ziggi jacket or one from BWOF. 

Many thanks to Kyle for helping me secure the zippers.  They truly make jacket sing!

Up next:  I have no idea.  I'm in limbo on what to sew next. 

Until next time, peace!

L

Kyle (Vacuuming the Lawn) is Awesome!

Remember these mismatched zippers?

The motorcycle jacket zipper issue is resolved!  On a recent visit to NYC, Kyle contacted me to see if I wanted her to check Pacific Trimming for zippers with aluminum teeth.  She compared photos of the zipper tape, found coordinating zippers, and had them cut to size.  How sweet is that??  With many thanks to Kyle, I can resume work on the jacket AAAAND have matching zippers.

Kyle, you are the best!

I hope to have some progress made in the next couple of days.  I haven't been sewing lately due to work, fatigue, and a quick trip to the east coast.  Details on that coming soon!

L

Moto Jacket Update: Zippers...Argh!

Note to self:  aluminum is not the same as nickel.  Yep.  It says so right there on the old periodic table.  When the metals are used for zipper teeth, the difference is more than obvious:  it's "one-of-these-things-is-not-like-the-others obvious.  I don't know if you can see the difference, but I can and it annoys me.  Sigh. 

So what are my options?  First, the aluminum zipper is staying in.  It took me FOUR tries just to sew the zipper stop at the top.  After I finally got that on, I installed the zipper and topstitched it in place.  This is my first time installing a separating zipper and I am quite pleased with the final result.  I am not unpicking that shit. 

I've given some thought to what else I could do to make this jacket happen:

Option 1 - Order two more 24" zippers from Wawak and shorten them to the lengths required for the pockets and sleeves (which is 6").  I've never added a pull tab or metal stops to an already-existing zipper, so this will be new to me.  In addition to buying more zippers, I would also have to get zipper tops, bottoms, pull tabs, and pliers and then watch YouTube videos to see how to put these things on.

Wawak has a shorter 10" aluminum zipper made for slipcovers and pillows, but the zipper tape only comes in natural.  Yeah, like pillows can't be any other color than natural.  SMH

Option 2 - Try to order the zippers from Zipperstop.  The reason I didn't order from them in the first place is because the only two zipper tape colors they had were black and navy.  There's a note that says any other color requires a minimum 50-unit order.  I will call them to see if they would be willing to make an exception.  If not, then this option isn't happening.  What am I going to do with 50 6" aluminum zippers?  Exactly.

Option 3 - Try Joann's or my other local fabric store.  I doubt Joann's will have what I'm looking for; that's why I didn't go there in the first place.  I will call the local fabric store to see if they have what I need.  Their zipper supply is pretty thin, so I'm not too optimistic.

Option 4 - Skip the zippers on the sleeves and pockets altogether and save that idea for the second version of this pattern.

If option 2 doesn't work out, then I'll probably just proceed with option 4.  I really don't feel like building a zipper from scratch.  It's a shame, too.  This jacket would have been totally bad-ass with all the shiny metal.  The aluminum just goes with the grey denim.  It really does.  Now the jacket just looks pitiful.

I have light blue denim that I was going to use to make another pair of jeans.  I think this fabric will make a cute moto jacket with brass zipper teeth.  For now, it looks like version one will be plain and simple.

L

Moto Jacket & Mystery Project

Thanks everyone for commenting on my zipper question.  Some preferred brass with lighter tape, others said black with brass will give make the jacket pop, while others said the silver will blend nicely.  These are all excellent points - which leave me no closer to a decision! 

These three comments pretty much tied the whole thing together:

Christiana writes:  "I like the dark tape as well. I'd take it a step further and go with a gold topstitching to pull it all together." 

SarahLiz writes:  "I think Judith is right - are you going for a dark and dramatic look, or a more blended, subtle, look. Also, what do you have to wear it with? That might help decide the choice too."

AnnaChristina writes:  "I like the light zipper with brass teeth, but I think silver would also be sharp. I think the fabric could be dressed up or down with the more subtle look."

I hadn't even thought about topstitching or how this jacket was to be worn and coordinated with the other garments I have.  Duh!  I was so fixated on the zipper color that I completely neglected the basic function of the garment.

So with everyone's comment in mind, I gave the jacket a second look.  I selected a few colors for topstitching and placed the garment next to another top that's currently in progress. The more I looked at everything, the less I liked the brass teeth.  The grey fabric has a washed effect and I couldn't be settled with the pop of gold.  Of the three colors I used for topstitching ( dark grey, light grey, and black), he one that stood out the most was the one that could be seen the least:  dark grey.  So I have decided to go with....drumroll...silver teeth!  I like the idea of being able to dress the jacket up or down and think starting with a more subtle look is better.

I haven't started sewing the jacket because the first thing to do is to put in the separating zipper - something I do not have, yet.  I can cut and fuse the interfacing, but until I get the zippers, there's not much else I can do.  In the meantime, I started another project using this fabric:

This print is wild and SO not me!  I was nervous about buying it because it's not something I would normally wear.  I'm going to keep the details under wraps until I finish it. Unfortunately, this project is stalled as well because I don't have a notion that I need to proceed.  I'll order it when I order the zippers.  Until then, you're free to make a guess!  Hey Kyle!  Shhhh...don't tell anyone. =)

L

 

Gold Teeth: Yea or Nay?

No.  I am not getting a grill. 

I'm talking about the zipper teeth on my planned denim motorcycle jacket.  The denim is grey, but the zipper teeth are brass.  Wawak has aluminum zippers long enough for the front, however none short enough for the sleeve vents and pockets.  Zipperstop has aluminum zippers in the sizes I'd like, but I've never ordered from them before.  

I googled some images of grey denim jackets.  Most have black zippers with black teeth.  I spotted this lovely and think the silver looks pretty good.  I might try to knock this off in a future version of this pattern.  It doesn't look too hard to do - except for maybe the quilted sleeve caps.

As a reference, I pinned in a couple of zippers I had on hand.  If I do go with brass, I think the lighter-colored tape looks better than black. 

Hmm...now I like the brass.  Ugh!  I've already cut out the fabric so this jacket is happening.  I just have to decide.  Do gold and grey go together?  Would silver be too obvious a choice?

Waaaah.  What do you think? =)

L

Jeans #9 (Part 5 - fly front)

Constructing the fly this time around took longer than usual.  I had to pick out stitches on the fly a few times.  This isn't my best work, but I'm ready to move on.

I can't emphasize enough how clear and thorough the instructions and drawings are in Jalie patterns!  Jeanne and Emilie (mother and daughter co-owners) take care to ensure that the instructions are easy to read and adequately match the drawings.  For those who are used to sewing from the American pattern companies, the only thing to remember is the color scheme for right and wrong sides is reversed in Jalie.  In American pattern companies, the right side is dark/shaded and the wrong side is white; in Jalie, it is the opposite.  The instructions and drawings are so good, I've not had a problem adjusting.

Fly (1 hour 27 minutes)

1.  Interface the zipper fly area.  If you made an alteration to the waist, don't forget to adjust the fly interfacing pattern piece as well.  Yes, you read correctly!  The pattern includes a separate piece just for the fly interfacing.  How nice is that?  This piece becomes useful again later in the construction of the fly.  Baste along the edge of the fly (as shown).  Switch to a regular stitch length at the dot, backstitch to lock the stitches at this point, and continue sewing along the crotch seam (at 3/8").

2.  Clip diagonally toward the dot beneath the fly and press the seam open above the clip.  The crotch seam is pressed to the left side.

3.  The instructions for the next step read as follows:

"On right side of front, topstitch 3 mm (1/8’’) right of center front [emphasis mine] (fig. 24a – view from right side of front, fig. 24b – view from wrong side of front)."

When I first read this, I thought I was to topstitch to my right of center front so that the stitching appears on the opposite side of the ink pen (as shown below).  The drawing clearly shows that the stitching goes on the same side as the ink pen (which when worn will be on your left).  If you stitch the other side, then the stitching will appear on the wrong side of the fly, thus creating the possibility for the fly to lap right over left (standard in means jeans/pants) instead of left over right which is the norm for women's jeans/pants.  So to stitch "right of center front" means to sew the line on the right side of the center front as viewed in the photo, not as how it will be worn on the body.  I hope this makes sense!

Once the front side is topstitched, the inside should look like this.  The center front crotch seam should be stitched in place toward the left (as shown in the diagram).  I forgot to serge the crotch seam before stitching - so be sure to do so before basting the center front!

4. Wrong sides up, take the right half of the front and fold it under the left so that the right fly extension is shown.

Pin the zipper face down onto the right fly extension with the zipper teeth along the center front.  This method of inserting a fly front is very similar to Sandra Betzina's method - except that I think she doesn't put the zipper teeth as close to the center front.  I haven't watched her video in a while, so I don't remember exactly.

Use a zipper foot to sew the zipper, stitching close to the teeth.

5.  Grab the un-stitched  side of the zipper and flip it, along with the right fly extension, so that the right side of the zipper is face up.

Stitch along the folded edge through all layers (taking the fold and zipper tape and keeping the front of the jeans free).  This fold should be relatively even.  If mine is off by a lot, I normally unpick the zipper and start over.  In this photo, the fold is slightly off at the top.  I let it go. =)

6.  Lay the jeans front wrong sides up.  Grab the left fly extension and flip the left front under the right front.  Stitch along the zipper tape catching the left front fly only.  Jalie recommends sewing close to the zipper teeth.  I stitch somewhere in the center of the zipper tape and haven't had a problem.  

Notice that my zipper is longer than the center front.  I don't cut the zipper until I am ready to attach the waistband.  I've pulled the zipper tab off enough times to be patient with the scissors!

7.  On the inside, pin through all layers  below the zipper stop.  You should be able to see the pin from the front side.

  
Use the fly interfacing piece to trace a line for topstitching on the jeans front.  I don't like a wide topstitching area around my fly front, so I place the straight edge slightly past the center front and trace from there. 

Betzina recommends sewing from the curve to the waist.  While this does provide better control, it takes some practice to master.  I had to re-do the topstitching a couple of times and it's still not as straight as I'd like it to be.

8.  Add a second row of topstitching from the bottom of the fly front along the front crotch seam.  Open the center front by cutting the basting stitches only.

9.  Fold the fly shield wrong sides together along the long edge.  I use my serger to finish all of the raw edges.  (Even though I serged the waist edge, it's needed because this edge will be encased in the waistband.)

Pin the fly shield to the right zipper extension (keeping jeans right front free) and stitch.  Jalie recommends trimming the right zipper extension before sewing, but I found it very difficult to catch the edge if I trimmed it first.  Instead, I attached the fly shield and trimmed afterwards.  Then, I sewed a zigzag stitch along the newly sewn edge for more security.

10.  Sew bar tacks in two places to secure the fly shield.  To make the bar tacks, I use a zigzag stitch with a width of 2.0 and length of 0.5.  Normally this isn't a problem with topstitching thread, but I had trouble making the bar tacks on this pair.  I had to pick each bar tack twice and the end result still isn't as nice as I'd like it to be.  The placement of the bar tacks is up to you.  I've seen them placed on both the inside and outside topstitching lines.  Originally I had mine on the outside lines, but the fabric was weakened in this area from all of the unpicking.

Next up:  sew and fit the inseams and side seams, attach the belt loops, attach the waistband, hem, and work/attach buttonhole and tack.  I hope to have this finished soon.  I am ready to move on to the next project!

Time recap:

1.  prep - 33 minutes
2.  back pockets - 91 minutes
3.  back - 30 minutes
4.  front pockets - 61 minutes

5.  fly - 87 minutes

Total time:  5 hours, 2 minutes

Until next time, peace & be well!

L 

Jalie 2561: Part 2 (fitting the back) & Zipper Construction

Fitting the Back
Since I can't find any pictures of the back, I took a look at the pattern pieces again. For some reason, I thought fitting the back was much more involved. I must be confusing this fitting series with that of Jalie 2908 which (after five...yes...five muslins) still doesn't fit.

The backs of my thighs aren't as muscular as the front so trouser pants end up being too baggy in this area. To remove some of the fullness, I took out 0.75 inches of width by using the same alteration as the front. The procedure is exactly the same, except you overlap the intersection instead of spread it apart.

The back crotch curve wasn't too bad out of the envelope. Usually, I have to add some length to the curve for all that trunk junk. Since I am using the wider waistband that comes with this pattern, I didn't see any problems. I did scoop the crotch curve a little at the 'hook' part of the curve.

Construction
I am having a serious moment. I started sewing the pants a couple of days ago and have reached a point in the construction where my frustration level is near its maximum. Everything was going smoothly until I encountered the zipper insertion. Normally, I don't have much trouble with fly front zippers but the method Jalie uses in this pattern has me stumped and on the verge of swearing profusely.

I should have known that trouble was brewing when I saw that the outer and inner seams were sewn before the zipper was inserted. Additionally, I should have paid more attention to the fact that the fly front is not cut-on. In other words, you have to sew the fly front and facing to the center front. This creates unnecessary bulk and since my fabric ravels like crazy, this also creates unnecessary headaches.

Having faith that the instructions would lead to beautiful results, I proceeded. I was wrong. I had to pick out the zipper twice. I got so far as attaching the waistband and trying on the pants. Hot. Ass. Mess. I really wanted to enter these into the Natural Fibers Contest on PR, but I can't do it with the zipper looking like this.

So out comes the seam ripper. I took out the zipper and un-stitched the side seams. I also cut another fly front and sewed it to the right front pants with the intention of using Sandra Betzina's Fly Front Tutorial.

I inserted the zipper, again. Strike Two. Hot. Ass. Mess. Again. I don't know what's going on, but this just isn't working. I am using a really nice 100% tropical wool and I don't want to waste the fabric. I will try one more time, but I am about to go ballistic.

Sigh. Sadly after all of this work and five muslins, this project may not happen out of this fabric. If the next attempt at inserting the zipper does not work, I am going to retire this project and try again later. Much later.

Do you have moments like this? If so, what do you do to overcome them?

L