Jalie 2559: Getting Started

This is the fourth item of my 2012 SWAP and I'm moving right along with construction.  Jalie writes fantastic instructions for their patterns.  Not only are the instructions thorough and easy to read, the drawings are amazingly clear.  Unfortunately, I have already had some issues with constructing this jacket.

Preshrinking the Fabric
I should have known that this was going to be a PITA project labour of love when I attempted to preshrink the wool flannel in the dryer.  I only meant to leave the fabric in for about 30 minutes.  10 hours and about a yard later, I remembered it was in there.  I am almost certain I had at least 3.5 yards.  Upon measuring, there was about 2.6 yards left. 

Pattern Alterations
Fortunately, what remained was enough to cut out the jacket.  While cutting out the main pieces, it occurred to me that I needed to make the same swayback alteration on the lining piece since the pattern includes separate pieces for shell and lining. After staring at the pattern for several seconds, I noticed that I goofed up the swayback adjustment.  I took out a wedge of 5/8" from side seam to center back, tapering to nothing at the center back.  This is suppose to be done the other way around.  I have NO idea what I was thinking when I did this.  Since I had already cut out the fashion fabric. there was nothing I could do about it.  I just hope that it won't look like too much of a hot mess. As for other alterations, I shortened the sleeve 1.5 inches and that's it!  I made a muslin cutting a straight size Z.  

Welt Pockets
I had some fears about doing a welt pocket since I had never done one before.  I can't emphasize enough how super simple and clear the instructions are.  Before cutting into my jacket, I practiced the technique on some wool flannel and cotton flannel scraps.

outside                                               inside

Not bad, eh?  Yeah, well.  It was pretty bad when I tried to sew the welt pockets for real.  Interfaced wool flannel and welt pockets simply do not mix.  At.  All.  There was just too much bulk in the area of the welt to turn under evenly.  I stitched and unpicked the welt at least five times - each try never improving in look or feel. I decided to scrap the welt pocket idea after already cutting the jacket open at the pocket line.  Determined to save this project, I zigzagged the opening closed and sewed the pocket flap over top.  I need to think of a way to keep the pocket flaps from...um...flapping so as to permanently conceal the welt pocket failure.  Any suggestions?

I've made more progress on the jacket and will describe how I inserted sleeve heads and set the sleeves in my next update.

Until then, be well!

L

NL6897: 3rd SWAP Garment Completed

I started sewing garments for the 2012 SWAP on Monday, 26 Dec.  Why is that anticipation sometimes leads to no motivation and/or disappointment?  I eagerly awaited the start of the contest, only to not feel motivated once it began.  What's that about?  I thought I would be in my sewing room the whole day.  Nope.  I was only in there for an hour or so.  Anyway, I finished the skirt and will share the details.

Fabric & Notions:

• brown wool suiting
• 7" invisible zipper
• camel Ambiance lining
• 1.5"-wide cream petersham cut to waist measurement plus extra for folding under
• fusible interfacing for the zipper area

Sewing this skirt was super simple since I made it twice already.  The only change was to take slightly bigger seam allowances.  As the notions list above suggests, I used an invisible zipper, inserted a lining, and faced the waist with petersham.  I used the techniques described in these two posts:  invisible zipper, lining & facing with petersham.  I'm glad I took the time to write the second post as I complete forgot how to do this!  I had to refer back to this post a couple of times to refresh my memory.

Originally, I included the flounce on this skirt as I did on the first one.  Apparently the fabric didn't have the right amount of drape because the flounce stuck out like a shark's fin.  Don't ask me why this image popped in my head.  What can I say?  I grew up in the 80s.  (Do you know the origin of this still-shot?)

 (new skirt; old skirt)

Yeah...see?  That thing had to go.  Believe me, it was not cute.  I have another wool suiting with far more drape out of which I might sew this pattern again. 

I don't know if I'll keep this or not.  I don't like how it fits - even though the first two versions fit beautifully.  I think the fabric is just too...something.  The way it hangs on the dress form is how it hangs on me.  Meh.  If I have to use this as a last resort, I will.  In the meantime, Ive already started looking for something else.

L