Kwik Sew 3558 (jacket): Complete

When I don't know what to sew, apparently I sew jeans and jackets.  I liked my first version of KS 3558 so much, I knew I would make it again eventually.

Sewing this jacket was pretty quick.  I didn't bother to bind the facing and hem edges as I did on the first.  

Denim is my comfort food for fabric.  There's no question about right/wrong sides, presses very nicely, and is just easy to sew.  What's not to love? =)

Due to fluctuations in my weight, I added 3/8" to the front vertical seams for extra width.  I could probably take the upper shoulder and waist in a bit.

I started to doubt whether including the back pleats was a good idea.  Trunk junk and pleats are normally never a good mix.  It looks like a little shelf back there.  

Pressing the pleats definitely helped; wearing it for a full day will tell the true tale.  The above picture shows how it rests on my backside.  Yeah.  Methinks this will be the one and only pleated peplum version. =)

I added sleeve heads for cap support and taped the lapel roll line.  I forgot to take pictures of the roll line, though.

I contemplated topstitching the pleats.  By the time I thought this was a good idea, I had already completed the back and I wasn't going to pick all of that apart.

I can see this little jacket paired with quite a few skirts I already own.  I might make this pattern one more time before retiring it for a while.  I'd like a long-sleeved version for fall.

I'll get pictures of me wearing the jacket soon.  

Up next:  I'm working on four projects at the moment:  New Look 6472 (two skirts) and Simplicity 2614 (tie-neck tops).  I'll probably finish the skirts first - despite knowing that I really need shirts.  

Until next time, peace!

L

Updates: M5523 (skirt) & J2559 (jacket)

McCall's 5523
Sewing this skirt the second time around has been a pain in the ass lesson in patience.  I started this skirt almost three weeks ago and it is still not finished.  My serger chewed the fabric horribly which prompted yet another trip to the shop.  It turns out that the blades were dull and needed to be replaced.  What, these things don't last forever?

The type of lining I'm using (polyester stretch charmeuse) is not cooperating at all.  It has an insane amount of static and sticks to everything.  I shocked the shit out of myself on more than one occasion and I have to remember to "ground" myself before I touch the sewing machine.  Grr.

Once I tamed that electrical beast, I assembled it backwards after checking...twice...and just realized last night that I serged the lining to the skirt at the waist seam...inside facing out.  It's hard to describe in words, but trust me, it is all kinds of wrong.  I'll need to unpick the serger stitches and reinsert the lining correctly.   After that, all I need to do is face the waist and sew the hem.  I don't even want to touch this darn thing right now.  =)

Jalie 2559
The jacket is coming along nicely.  I've sewn the sleeves and am now thinking about what to use for sleeve heads.  My choices are thin cotton flannel, polar fleece, and cotton batting.  Below are a couple of pictures of the two samples basted in: one is fleece, the other is cotton flannel.  Can you tell which is which?

I want the sleeve cap to be adequately supported without looking too bulky.  The cotton flannel doesn't produce a lot of bulk, but I don't know if it is strong enough to prevent the cap from collapsing.  The polar fleece will definitely support the shoulder cap as well as stop it from caving, but it is it too bulky for this material?  Hmm...  I'm going to get a piece of cotton batting and compare its thickness to that of the two samples I have.

I don't know what I'm going to do about lining.  I could use the electrical polyester stretch charmeuse, but I am not looking forward to it.  I might take a risk and use my non-stretch rayon Ambiance with smaller seam allowances.  I'll have to think it about it some more...

In the meantime, I am going to sew some quick knit tops and dresses.  I need some sewing success so that my sewjo doesn't make a run for the border.

 I'll be posting my year-in-review next.  Until then, be well!

L

Updates & Pictures (finally!)

Sewing Updates

Ripped Pin-Tuck Skirt
I love wearing this skirt because it is so comfortable and cute.  My most recent wearing unfortunately didn't end well.  The lining got caught in the invisible zipper and would NOT budge.  The only thing I could do to free the lining was to tear it.    

Sigh.  I suppose I could save the skirt by taking out the lining and putting in a new one.  But that would mean that I'd actually have to do it.  Maybe next summer...

McCall's 6559
I made two versions of this dress.  Unfortunately I didn't get to save the first dress because I burned a nice big hole in the fabric while applying steam-a-seam.  Note to self:  cotton-poly blends and heat do *not* mix.  I will spare you the melted details.  In fact, I think I already threw it away.  I used a size 14, shortened the shoulders by about 1.5 inches, and lopped off about 3 inches of length.  On the next version, I will raise the neckline an inch and take off another inch in length.

I use two hangers to prevent the shoulders from stretching out from the weight of the dress.

New Look 6897
I made another version of this pattern; I think the count is now up to four.  I didn't do anything special here except to line it, face the waist with petersham (like the others), and put the flounce on the other side.

Simplicity 2422
I finished this a while ago as well, but neglected to take pictures.  It's a cute little jacket that is perfect for summer.  The jacket is 98% complete; I need to add two buttonholes and sew on the buttons.  I might make another one for early fall.  I wrote a blog post but need to take and upload a few more pictures before posting. In the meantime, here's the jacket with the linen skirt and the McCall's dress.

Lady Grey
I resumed work on my Lady Grey coat.  I started this last fall but got sidetracked with other projects.  Since I want to wear this coat this year, it would be a good idea to finish it before it gets cold!  I am following Gertie's 2010 sew along and instructions on how to properly tailor a coat.  Let me tell you, this is definitely no weekend project.  One has to be very patient and have many moments of zen to undertake a project like this.  I thought about interlining the coat with lambs wool but decided  to use some flannel-backed lining instead.  Here are a couple of progress shots.

I am at the point where I need to sew the pockets and lining but as I don't have what I need, I am currently stalled.  Until I get the lining, I will jump ahead and start working on shaping the collar.



Fall 6PAC (more like a case, really, if you saw my storyboard)
I hope to sew another 6PAC for fall since my summer 6PAC was a fail.  Even though I got three of the six garments completed, my sewjo quickly sank after I ruined one of my fabrics by incorrectly cutting out the pattern.  Initially, I was going to use a brown, cream, and orange palette.  Instead, I decided to go the nontraditional fall colour route and use grey, white, and magenta. 

My storyboard is still in limbo, though I do have several patterns on my radar.  I am actually thinking of joining the Mini Wardrobe contest on PR in September.  Before I start cutting and sewing, I'll wait until the rules come out to see if it's something I want to do.


Non-Sewing Updates

New Car
My 13-year old Nissan finally bit the dust; the timing chain broke, thus rendering me car-less.  That wasn't so bad considering that I was out of the country for two weeks.  But when I got back, man, let me tell you.  Not having a car while living in the city sucks.  I am thankful and ever grateful to my dear friend Rasheedah who carted me around the city to help me look for a car.  She even drove me to Toledo when I saw a used Honda that I liked.  She did this while working full time and caring for her family of three kids and a husband.  What a doll!

I finally got a car and am happy with it.  It's not a Nissan, but has 6-speed manual transmission and a few nice features.  I really like Honda but this was the best choice for now.  Maybe in a couple of years, I'll trade it in for something else.

Summertime in the City
Summertime in the city is filled with all kinds of activities.  And since I now have reliable transportation, I've been taking full advantage of all the city has to offer.

The 20th Annual Concert of Colours was held at the beginning of July and featured a diverse collection of musical interests - totally free of charge. I got to see Tito Puente Jr., Musique Noire, Joe Reilly (local artist), and the 5th Don Was All City Jazz Revue.  The Jazz Revue was FANTASTIC!!  Joan and Marcus Belgrave, Gayelynn McKinney, James Carter were just a few of the artists to grace the stage of Orchestra Hall.  What a weekend!

This past weekend, I went to see Eric Benet and Ledisi at an outdoor amphitheatre.  It was a wonderful concert and a great chance to enjoy good music on the riverfront.


Pottery
Even though I haven't updated my pottery page with new pieces, I have spent a lot of time in the studio.  I made several pieces and did as much as I am going to do with my 16-piece dish set. So far, I've made 12 of the 16 pieces:  four coffee mugs, four plates, and four bowls.  The annoying and uber-frustrating (but maybe cool to someone else) thing is that I used the same glaze on every piece and none of them look the same.  The coffee mugs are all shiny, the bowls are a perfect application of the glaze, and the plates are brown and dull.  What the hell, man?  I'm over dishes for now and will work on something else when I return to the studio in September.  For now, I need a break.

Whew!!  That's a wrap!  Until next time, be well!

L

Jalie 2559: Fail

After much hard work and deliberation, I finally have to admit that this project is a major fail!  While the pattern is nicely drafted and fits reasonably well (with a few minor alterations), the cause of the failure was completely due to fabric choice.  I used a wool flannel and with all of the layers, the garment doesn't hang nor fit as nicely after the facing/lining unit is attached.  It's just too thick many areas and making sharp collar points is nearly impossible.  Here are a couple of pictures of where the jacket stands at present.

  Meh. 

I'll likely finish it and give it away.  I'm not a fan of the finished product and I know I'll never wear it.

Unfortunately, this tanks my motivation for the SWAP.  I did finish another piece of the plan, but I have no desire to focus on the remaining pieces, especially now since I need to start over on the jacket.  I'm not even pressed about it.  There are so many other things I want to sew right now and I'm going to do just that. 

Many thanks to everyone who left comments on my jeans. I really appreciate it. =)


L

Jalie 2559: Sleeve Heads

The pattern calls for installing sleeve heads for sleeve cap support.  I did this in my Vogue jacket, and  recognize the benefits of having this structure in a jacket. 

The pattern includes a separate piece for the sleeve head (a 2" bias strip with diagonal edges).  According to the instructions, set the sleeve in first and then sew the bias strip (folded in half lengthwise) to the seam allowance of the sleeve cap.  I tried this and didn't like the results.  While there was some support, the sleeve cap caved significantly.  Unfortunately, I neglected to take pictures before removing the sleeve head. 

I knew there was a better way to do this, so I referred to Kenneth King's book, Cool Couture.  His method not only results in a nicely supported shoulder area, the process of inserting sleeve heads makes setting the sleeve really easy.

Here are the steps:

1.  Sandra Betzina and Kenneth King suggest using lamb's wool or mohair, respectively, for the sleeve head.  Having neither one of these on hand, I opted for hefty polar fleece.  Cut a bias strip measuring 3" by 11" (7.6 cm by 28 cm).  I thought 3" was rather ride since on the Vogue jacket, I used a 2" strip.  I opted to take the average and cut a 2.5" strip.

2.  Anchor the strip to the wrong side of the sleeve cap one inch below one of the notches.  Sew a few stitches using a 1/8" seam allowance.  I would use a 1/4" seam allowance so that presser foot (or walking foot) has something to grab onto.  Hmm.  Looking at this photo, I think I may have used a 1/2" seam allowance.

3.  Stretch only the strip as much as you can while sewing it to the sleeve cap.  This shouldn't require a lot of effort since the fleece is already stretchy and on the bias.  Be sure to keep the piece taut and stretched as you sew. Continue stitching until you're about one inch below the opposite notch.

4. Shake the sleeve and watch the ease fall into place.  Neither Kenneth nor Sandra suggest a stitch length.  I used a regular stitch length (2.5 mm) on one sleeve and a basting stitch (4.0 mm) on the other.  While they both eased relatively the same, I like using the smaller length better.  On future jackets, I will use a length of 3.0.  This way, I have the benefits of both a secure stitch and longer stitch for adjusting ease.

5.  Pin the sleeve into the armhole right sides together.  Basting stitches aren't needed since the ease has already been removed by the bias strip.

Voi-la!  This is the pucker-free finished product!  These pictures are of the sleeve before steaming the cap into shape.  I think it looks pretty good!

Ugh!  I can totally see my pattern alteration error in the back.  Hopefully it's not too noticeable while I'm wearing it.  I've put in too much time and fabric to scrap this project now.  This jacket will be completed!


********
Since writing this post several days ago, I've removed both sleeves and opened up the front and back princess seams and the center back seam.  There was just too much width in these areas.  Looking at these pictures now I can totally see where the back of the jacket is too wide.  I took about 1/2" out by sewing 1/4" in from the existing seam lines.  I also removed some width from the bicep to elbow area of each sleeve.  The jacket fits much better now.  I will make the same changes to the lining pieces and permanently adjust the pattern pieces. 

Up next:  I need to start working on the lining.  I am dreading this part of the project!

L

Jalie 2559: Getting Started

This is the fourth item of my 2012 SWAP and I'm moving right along with construction.  Jalie writes fantastic instructions for their patterns.  Not only are the instructions thorough and easy to read, the drawings are amazingly clear.  Unfortunately, I have already had some issues with constructing this jacket.

Preshrinking the Fabric
I should have known that this was going to be a PITA project labour of love when I attempted to preshrink the wool flannel in the dryer.  I only meant to leave the fabric in for about 30 minutes.  10 hours and about a yard later, I remembered it was in there.  I am almost certain I had at least 3.5 yards.  Upon measuring, there was about 2.6 yards left. 

Pattern Alterations
Fortunately, what remained was enough to cut out the jacket.  While cutting out the main pieces, it occurred to me that I needed to make the same swayback alteration on the lining piece since the pattern includes separate pieces for shell and lining. After staring at the pattern for several seconds, I noticed that I goofed up the swayback adjustment.  I took out a wedge of 5/8" from side seam to center back, tapering to nothing at the center back.  This is suppose to be done the other way around.  I have NO idea what I was thinking when I did this.  Since I had already cut out the fashion fabric. there was nothing I could do about it.  I just hope that it won't look like too much of a hot mess. As for other alterations, I shortened the sleeve 1.5 inches and that's it!  I made a muslin cutting a straight size Z.  

Welt Pockets
I had some fears about doing a welt pocket since I had never done one before.  I can't emphasize enough how super simple and clear the instructions are.  Before cutting into my jacket, I practiced the technique on some wool flannel and cotton flannel scraps.

outside                                               inside

Not bad, eh?  Yeah, well.  It was pretty bad when I tried to sew the welt pockets for real.  Interfaced wool flannel and welt pockets simply do not mix.  At.  All.  There was just too much bulk in the area of the welt to turn under evenly.  I stitched and unpicked the welt at least five times - each try never improving in look or feel. I decided to scrap the welt pocket idea after already cutting the jacket open at the pocket line.  Determined to save this project, I zigzagged the opening closed and sewed the pocket flap over top.  I need to think of a way to keep the pocket flaps from...um...flapping so as to permanently conceal the welt pocket failure.  Any suggestions?

I've made more progress on the jacket and will describe how I inserted sleeve heads and set the sleeves in my next update.

Until then, be well!

L

New Look 6508 (jacket)

I am bad at blogging. I know this. I actually have several posts in queue, but I haven't posted them because I feel compelled to close out this one. I don't want to make a habit of starting a topic and not finishing it. I've done that once already with the woven blouse.

In my last post, I mentioned getting a jacket to fit. I started the jacket as part of a class on Pattern Review and am happy to say that after a substantial hiatus, it is almost complete. It took me a long time to finish the jacket for two main reasons: family drama and fit. I will not bother going into the details of the family drama. It's around me enough every day and I don't want this space to be invaded or consumed by it. As for fit, I thought the muslin looked really good. But, when I put on the actual garment, I saw a few problems: the bodice fit isn't that great, the shoulder seams are still too long, and the sleeves look too long and full.

At my last sewing get-together, I took it to show my friends and get their opinion. Nicole and Rachelle both had very positive things to say. They did not see any of the issues that I saw and thought I should just finish it. Here's how the jacket looks so far:

Fabric used: The fabric used a a 100% wool tweed from the Fabric Warehouse in Romulus. I love this fabric. I love it so much that I went back and bought enough to make the dress from this pattern and a pencil skirt to go with the jacket. I even went back a second time to get more of the fabric and made Simplicity 5914. More on that in another post...

Fit and size: As mentioned before, I did not do any alterations to this jacket. I simply cut a myriad of sizes and blended when needed. Thinking that the fit wasn't that great, I decided to alter the pattern for future use. Eventually, I will try this pattern again in a stretch corduroy from my stash. I am going to participate in the upcoming fall wardrobe contest on PR and don't have this pattern worked into the rotation.

Construction: All seams were sewn on my machine. I only used my serger to finish the armhole edges. I cut 2"-wide bias strips to bind the neckline. I was going to just serge and press up the lower hem. But this pattern does not have any hem allowances; which struck me as odd. After studying the instructions and consulting Shannon Gifford, we discovered that the jacket is finished by bagging the lining and thus the hem allowance is the same as the seam allowance. Since I don't like that finish on this particular garment, I will go ahead and bind the hem as well.

This is part of the reason the jacket remains unfinished. I do not know how to mitre corners and something has to be done so that the front corners look smooth.

Wearing it: I don't think I'm going to wear this jacket with a skirt in the same fabric. I think it's colour/fabric overload for me. Instead, I'll probably wear this with a pair of jeans or slacks and some nice loafers. Classic, chic, and preppy.

I hope to have this finished by the end of next week. I've checked out some videos on YouTube about mitring corners. We'll see how that goes!

~L

Which Way is the Wind Blowing? (Jackets)

Actually, the wind is calm today. Nice and not too breezy. As for sewing, it's blowing toward my first jacket. I know, I know. What about the blouse? Remember Ma and how you were so eager to show her it fit? Yes, I do. And, I will. Right now, my focus has shifted drastically (sadly?) away from the blouse. I am working on bodices, though, so that's still a good thing. After having success with fitting the maxi dress, I decided to return to fitting jackets - a feat that I attempted to master several years ago.

Why now? I'm in Shannon Gifford's Stitch 'N Flip class on Pattern Review. I have been meaning to take this class for a year now. I hesitated doing so because I did not have a jacket that fit properly. As with the woven blouse, I went through a number of patterns and countless yards of muslin.

Some time ago, I started working on McCall's 5859.
I was so inspired by the wonderful versions I saw on Pattern Review that I had to try it myself. Well, this pattern is not for everyone. Even though the short sleeves are really cute, they do not at all flatter full arms. Because I have been trying to tone my biceps, these sleeves just do not look right.

The long sleeves are just not long enough. 3/4 length sleeves, again, don't look flattering because of my height. The un-hemmed length stops right at the fullest part of my torso. Not cute.

Add to that the issue of getting the jacket to fit right and you have a recipe for lots of swearing. I got the bodice to fit, but as soon as I inserted those sleeves...

The jacket class started on 6 July and here I was, on Tuesday 14 July, frustrated and behind. Way, behind. At the point, I thought that I could go to one of the other jacket patterns that I tried. Even though I had all the pieces, I made so many changes to their un-traced papers, that rescue was definitely possible, but not likely.


I raided my pattern stash and found New Look 6508.
It's an out of print pattern from 2005. It was fresh and uncut.
The jacket has five pieces, no buttonholes, zipper or collar. In fact, according to the design, the center front stands ajar! Hot damn. It could not fit completely and I can totally pass it off as a design element. Hah!

Tracing the Pattern and Achieving Fit:

I've learned so much from my sewing friends since meeting with them. Lately, though, I have taken to heart the advice of Tina and Rachelle. Tina is a no nonsense sewer and she does whatever is necessary to get the garment to work. If lopping shit off somewhere corrects balance or makes setting the sleeve easier, or whatever, then do it. Need more room, take smaller seam allowances. Don't fret the small stuff. Just move on. Rachelle likens sewing to cooking: sure there are ingredients, but in the end you're the chef and you determine the outcome. With these thoughts in mind, I just did what felt right. I followed the wind.

I traced the pattern using a range of sizes:

• Center Back:
  Neckline: 12
  Shoulder: 16
  


• Side Back:
  Shoulder: 16
  Armhole: 16
  Side seam: 16
  


• Center Front:
  Shoulder: 16
  


• Side Front:
  Shoulder: 16
  Armhole: 16
  Side seam near bust: 18
  Side seam near waist: 16
  


• Sleeve:
  Sleeve cap: 16
  Sleeve seam: 16

I really should have used a size 14 in the shoulders, but the pattern oddly had size 14 grouped with sizes 8 and 20. The other sizes were grouped on the same pattern. I hate it when pattern companies do that. I just do not understand the rationale behind it.

What was the result? A jacket the fits. No, really, I'm serious. I couldn't believe it. The only thing I will need to do is take a slightly bigger seam allowance near the top of the center front-side front seam. The shoulder seam is too long, as suspected. I didn't do the petite adjustment. I didn't raise the armhole. I didn't do an FBA. Is it perfect? I don't know. Is it better than the McCall's jacket? Indeed. I'll have to have the PR experts assess the fit. The jacket is comfortable and I can move my arms. T he shoulder princess seams fall over my bust and the centers front are in their proper position. I will need to tweak the seam allowance on the princess seam a bit, but that's it. Just a tweak.

I will post pictures soon. My camera's batteries are low and my camera is really fussing about it.

An update on the jacket progress is forthcoming, too. I completed the bodice and just need to set the sleeves. I am making some design changes that are not a part of the pattern. I should have this jacket knocked out in a day or two.

Until then,

L~