Jamie Christina Abbey Coat (fitting & adjustments)

The second of my three works in progress is almost finished.  The problems I encountered were fully brought on by me not trusting my measurements and not paying attention to detail.

Mistake #1:  I am short.

I know this.  I've always known this.  Every time I need to reach for something on the top shelf at the grocery store, I have to stand on my toes, ask someone taller than me, or, on rare occasion, grab a broom from the cleaning aisle.

Why I don't take this into consideration when I sew - particularly bodices - is a mystery.  I KNOW I need to shorten the bodice proportionately  to match my height, yet I don't.  Well sewing this coat has put my shortcomings (hah!) on full display.

Mistake #2:  I did not pay close attention to the pattern cover.

The modeled version of the coat on the pattern cover clearly shows the flounce ending above the knees.  Coupled with my height, the flounce of my pre-hacked fell below my knees. 

Mistake #3:  I did not pay close attention to the fit description (emphasis mine).

"A sewing pattern to make a semi-fitted, fully lined coat. The Abbey Coat features princess seams, 3/4 sleeves, and a peter pan collar. View A is made with the flounce and view B is made with out the flounce."

I started with a size 16 in the shoulders and neckline, gradually morphing out to an 18 in the bust and back to 16 in the hip and hem.  I figured the extra width would be good for accommodating thicker clothes.  Bad idea.  The coat ended up being way too big and I looked like a radioactive strawberry.  I could have sewn a straight 16 - maybe even 14. 

I could have saved myself a lot of hassle had I added the flounce to the muslin.

I didn't think that was necessary because it's a flounce.  What fitting issues could there be?  I could have also saved time by making petite adjustments right from the jump.  Looking at this pictures now, I can see that the bodice is too long.  The waist line is a couple of inches below where it should be.  Ah well.  Hindsight.

Pre-hack Adjustments:   I lowered the bust fullness 1" (on both the side front and center front pieces) and added 5/8" at bust level near the armhole.  This is similar to an upper broad back adjustment.   I did not do a traditional FBA.  

I made a 1" full bicep adjustment and added 2 inches to the length.  

Hacks:  To save the coat, I removed the flounce and took off 1.5 inches from the bottom.  I asked for ideas on Instagram and many suggested adding a waist seam.  This would have been my plan if shortening at the hem didn't work.

I also removed about an 1.5 inches from each side seam.  Talk about too big!  While the coat is more fitted now, wearing something heavy underneath is no longer an option.  No big deal.  I can wear this with a light sweater between the fall and winter seasons.

In these pictures, I'm using the trimmed width to make the same adjustment on the lining.  I trimmed away the extra and then marked the seam line from that edge.
Originally I added side seam pockets, but the position of the pockets exacerbated the fullness above the flounce.  So the pockets had to go. 

I had to make a few more minor adjustments as I sewed.  Trim here...snip there...and there...and there.  Unpick all of that and start over.

This was a regular scene in my sewing room.

***

The facing is attached and the sleeve cuffs are done.  All that's left is buttonholes and buttons. 

Whew!  This is definitely an EPIC coat - but not in the way I originally imagined.  I thought the tailoring would consume a lot of time.  Using KDK's method for sew-in interfacing took very little time.  It was the repeated stitching and unstitching that increased the time.  Hopefully I will be done in the next couple of days!

Until next time, peace!

L  

Complete: Simplicity 2151 (button-front shirt)

Thanks to all who left words of encouragement on my latest Ramblings post.  I appreciate your stopping by to say hi and keep your head up.  I've still been up and down, but I'm working on remaining positive.

Though I've added even more to the fabric stash, I also sewed quite a bit so that kind of balances things out, right?

On with the review...

Fabric & Notions

• 2 yards of 45" stretch cotton poplin in deep magenta
• light-weight non-stretch fusible interfacing
• 70/10 microtex needle

Machines & Setup

• regular machine for seams
• serger for finishing seams together

Sizing, Fit, & Alterations:  As this is a multi-cup pattern, I cut an 18 D-cup in the bodice  a 16 in the collar, neckline, and armhole.  I can usually get away with this combination using Simplicity multi-cup patterns.   

Collar

Cutting a 16 in the collar/neckline was not a good idea.  It's too big and stands away from my neck. Either I need to use a smaller collar size or contour the collar a bit more so that it sits properly in place.

Bust

The only bust adjustment I made was to lower the bust fullness 1.25".  I did this by drawing a box around the bust curve and moving it down the desired amount.  This alteration was done on both the side and center fronts.

Shoulder princess seams just work for my full bust and it's one of the reasons I was drawn to this pattern.  So why in the WORLD doesn't the back have shoulder princess seams too?!  That annoys me about some patterns:  party in the front, buzz killington in the back.

When I made the muslin, the fit in the back was just wrong.  The swayback adjustment I made coupled with the darts made for a terrible fit.  So I turned the darts into shoulder princess seams.

Connie Crawford wrote an article on how to convert darts to princess seams.  It can be found on pages 46 - 51 of Threads #170.  Here's what I did: 

• Measuring from the edge, I located the position of the front shoulder princess seam and marked this on the back shoulder line.
• Then I drew a line from this point to the top of the back dart.  You may want to check the angle of the line for personal preferences.  Use a curved ruler to introduce a slight curve to follow the contour of the upper back.
• Finally, I cut from shoulder to hem along the line drawn in step two and the dart legs.  

Voi-la!  I did my usual sway back adjustment on the center and side back and added notes to remember to add seam allowances on the fabric.

Unfortunately, I neglected to take pictures of the back.  Actually, it wasn't neglect.  I was tired, in a salty mood, and just didn't feel like it. =)  The fit across the back is spot on, trust me.

Sleeves

When I make this again, I will shorten the sleeves a bit.  On someone taller, this might be a good length.  On me, it looks like I ran out of fabric and "did the best I could with what I had."

Conclusion:  I definitely plan to sew this again.  I want to make the tie-neck version in a more fluid fabric.  I think poplin was a good choice here, but this pattern would benefit better in something a bit less stiff.

I will always wear the shirt belted.  ALWAYS!

Up next:  I've started working on fall clothes.  I put together some coordinating fabrics to make a mini wardrobe.  I hope to post the review of Kwik Sew 2960 (inspired by SarahLiz) soon.

Until next time, peace!

L

BWOF 11-2009-125 (funky bellbottoms): Complete

This seemed like the project that would never end.  Fortunately, it has.  Unfortunately, it's not my best work.  I'll definitely rock (ring?) these bells, but there is definitely room for improvement!

(top:  McCall's 6078, jacket Jalie 2559) 

Fabric/Notions:

• 2 yards of medium to heavyweight denim
• 7" metal zipper
• topstitching thread
• fusible interfacing
• 7 metal jeans tacks
• 80/12 universal needle for seams
• 100/16 universal needle for topstitching
• fabric scraps for pocket and belt loop lining

Pattern Instructions:  Typical BWOF word maze.  I didn't really follow them since I've sewn jeans before. In this order, I:  sewed the front and back vertical seams, inserted the zipper using the instructions from Jalie 2908, sewed the back crotch seam, and topstitched the inseams (described below).  I sewed the side seams, waistband, belt loops, and hem as usual.

Alterations and Fit:  Originally, I started with size 44, but took off so much (about 3 inches total) from the  seams, I probably ended up sewing size 40.  That's good news considering I picked up about six pounds (!!!) from my most recent ailment.  Ugh.  Comfort food played a big role in the weight gain...but still...six pounds? 

I removed a total of five inches of length:  three in the leg area (1.5 above and below the knee), one from the hem, and one from the waist.  Although removing the extra inch from the waist helped in positioning the jeans on my waist where I like it, I could stand to remove about another inch because the front crotch is still too long.  Is this a thing with Burda pants? 

Topstitching (A Lesson in Faking It):  With four godets on each leg, I didn't think the jeans would look right with topstitching only on the outer seams.  This meant I would have to topstitch one of those seams in a tube.  I tried it with basting stitches and gave up around mid-thigh.  There was just too much fabric bunched up around the needle.  There just had to be a better way to get the same effect without the hassle.  

My solution?  I faked it.  Before sewing the inseams, I topstitched them while they were flat.  I sewed a guideline on the seam line and topstitched 1/8" to the outside of this line.  Then I sewed and topstitched the side seams as normal.  Lastly I sewed the inseams, taking care to keep an even seam allowance so that the line of topstitching would be visible and even.  You know what?  The faked topstitching lines look MUCH better than the real ones.  Figures.

I ended up pressing all of the vertical seams open because I didn't like how much bulk was created around the godets.  There are areas where there is a little bit of bulk, but it's not too bad.

Construction:  I relied heavily on Katie's (Kadiddlehopper) blog post to sew this pair.  I took cues from her on topstitching the seams and lining the pocket flaps/belt loops. 

The only thing that gave me problems was sewing the buttonhole.  My machine did not like doing this at all.  I sewed a few practice buttonholes only to have to pick out the 'real ones' twice.  The final attempt resulted in a buttonhole that's about 1/4" too small.  The jeans tack still fits, but it's a struggle and I don't know how secure this will be in the long run.  

In pottery, if there is an area of the piece that is imperfect, potters often use something (a design, chattering, or more clay) to cover it up.  Picking stitches 0.4mm long is a PITA.  I couldn't pick them all, so I covered them up with a little decorative stitch.  Meh.  Like I said, not my best work.

Conclusion:  I'll wear these jeans, but I doubt they'll be in the regular rotation as much as my other jeans.  Despite trying them on during construction, they're still too big in many places.  Even though this is a very distinctive style, I will probably sew them again just to get the fit and sewing right.  I am by no means a perfectionist, but I know I can do better.

Peaking out from the jeans are leopard print patent leather flats.  I *love* this look, but hate that the flats are uncomfortable.  O_o  They have soft soles too!  Ugh!

More pics:

Up next:  I have no idea.  I need tops, so maybe that's what I'll work on next. Until next time, peace!

Feedback & Funky Bells Update

First some feedback...

Thank you for the comments on my jacket.  I like it and can definitely see more versions in my regular rotation.  I hope to snap a picture of me wearing it once I finish the funky bells.

Faye asked:  "What type of fusible interfacing did you use?"

I used a medium-weight fusible that I found at Haberman Fabrics years ago.  I bought all they had since they said they would no longer be able to order it.  I use it for special projects like this because of its weight and stability. 

Sarah Liz asked:  "What sort of lining do you use?"

I use Bemberg Ambiance 100% rayon lining for almost all of my lined garments.  The lining washes, dries, and presses well.  It's shifty and, at times, can be a pain to handle.  Aside from silk or Kasha flannel-backed cotton/acetate lining, I wouldn't line with anything else.

Up next, the funky bells update...

Sooooooo...I basted the seams together and tried on the jeans.  What did I learn?  I could fit two people in these bad boys.

Holy big jeans.  These things are ginormous.  I started with the same size (44) as the last pair because I thought I needed the extra room since my denim has no stretch.  When I compared the pattern pieces to Jalie 2908, I thought they looked rather big.  But I forged on anyway because the Jalie jeans are made for stretch denim.

I was wrong.  I'm so glad I didn't do any topstitching.  I would have been in a sour mood if I had to undo all of that.  I picked everything apart and started over.  I sewed at 3/4" along the front and back vertical seams.  For the side and inseams, I trimmed off 1/4" and then sewed at 5/8".  This amounts to a total reduction of 3 inches!  The fit is much better now, though I could have taken off a bit more across the front.

I'll also need to do something about that mile-long front crotch.  

Do you see that??  This can't be normal.  I don't remember the front crotch being this long on the skinny jeans or else I would have altered the pattern before cutting my fabric.  Maybe I've been wearing low-rise jeans for so long that I've forgotten what regular-rise looks like.  I don't know.  What I do know is that I am definitely lopping that shit off.  

For comparison, here is a copy of the zipper area for Jalie 2908:

Yeah, man.  That foolishness has to go.  I think taking off an inch will do; that will leave enough for a seam allowance.  I was concerned that shorting the length at the waist might throw off the waistband.  But I've already done that by taking those bigger seam allowances.  Meh.  I'll make it work somehow.

As for the overall length of the jeans, yeah I'm short.  Whatareyagonnado?  I'll probably have to lop off an inch or two before I sew the hem.

This is a picture of one of the godets topstitched.  The jeans have four godets on each leg:  front, back, and both sides.  I want to topstitch all seams, but doing so will involve topstitching one seam in a tube.  I've tried that before - it's not fun.  I'm going to practice doing it while I have the pants basted.  If I can't get it to work, then I'll have to figure out something else.  Kadiddlehopper was able to topstitch all eight vertical seams successfully.  She suggests topstitching the inseams last so that any wonkiness is  hidden.  We'll see how that goes.

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace everyone!

L

Contouring a Waistband

A straight rectangular waistband is no good for a person with trunk junk.  The waistband will gap at the center back and cause unnecessary exposure.  To contour the waistband, I used the instructions provided by Jennifer Stern in her "Blueprints to Better Jeans" class on PR.  

1.  The first thing I did was draw the straight grainline since I don't cut my waistband on the bias.

2.  Align the waistband and bake yoke pieces at the center back.  2" from the center back, draw a vertical line from the top of the waistband to the bottom of the yoke.  Draw two or three more vertical lines 2 inches apart from the first one.  The number of lines you draw depends on the amount of width you plan to remove from the waistband. 

I just had a revelation about this method for this particular waistband!  I'll share it at the end of the post.

 

3.  I removed 4 inches of width altogether.  I drew four vertical lines and will dart out 1/2" at each line.  To do this, mark 1/4" on either side of each vertical line.  Since I worked with one-half of the waistband, the amount removed on this piece is 2 inches.

The marks are in blue. 

 4.  Draw a single line connecting the left mark with the bottom of the line on the back yoke.  Repeat for the right mark.  Do this for each of the vertical lines drawn.

 

5.  Finally, fold on the vertical line, overlap the dart edges, and tape in place.  Alternatively, you can cut on one dart leg, match it with the other, and tape in place.  Do the same for the yoke piece.  The changes to the yoke piece are so small, I didn't bother taking out the excess.  I haven't had a problem with fitting the waistband to the yoke.
  

curved waistband

As I was writing this post, I thought more about how this method affects this particular waistband.  The Jalie waistband is designed to be cut into two pieces, sewn at the center back, and then joined to the pants front/back.  Then, it's folded lengthwise and topstitched.  So the waist seam is in the center of the piece.

So the amount removed is actually less than planned since the dart isn't as wide in this area.  I never realized this until now.  This may explain why my waistband still gapes a bit.  I will have to address this in future pairs of jeans.

I hope this was helpful!

L

Fitting Simplicity 2473

This pattern is one of many in my dressapalooza.  Having seen versions of this dress on Kyle and Rachelle, I was excited to try it myself.  What I like most about the pattern is the front shoulder princess seams for fit and the various options to customize your own look.  I'm working on this version: 

Fitting (Round 1):
There's not much to this first round of fitting.  I cut a straight size 14 in the bodice and midriff only, and started by lowering the bust fullness 1.25 inches.  Normally I lower a full 2 inches, however when I compared the pattern piece to my dress form (or mannequin as my guy friend insists on saying), it appeared as if the bust curve was almost in the correct spot.  I made a 2" FBA and a 5/8" broad back adjustment.

To compensate for the extra width added by the FBA, I increased the width on the midriff front band as well.

(I made additional alterations to the pattern, but the necessity of these adjustments weren't revealed until after the second muslin as described below.)

Fitting (Round 2):
For the second round, I decided to cut out the skirt panels and assemble the dress in its entirety. 

The first thing I did was pin the hem at a place that I find flattering on me.  Even though it's not clearly visible in these photos, the midriff front was huge.  I pinned out a dart of about 5/8" from below the bust to half-way through the midriff front. 

Next, I noticed that there was some pulling toward the front at the skirt side seams.  At first I thought about reducing the side seam on the back and add the reduction to the front.  But, since the front and back side pieces are cut from the same single pattern piece, I'll add one-half an inch to the seam allowance and fit as I sew.


The armhole feels a little tight, so I will scoop out a bit if needed.

Here are the additional changes:

• pinned out 5/8" dart on both the side front and midriff front
• made 1" swayback adjustment above the midriff back
• lowered front neckline 1"
• reduced length 2 1/4"

Up Next:
I intend to use a red silk suiting for the dress and line it with either red or cream rayon ambiance.

I have a few projects that need special attention before I can dive fully into this one.  But since I have sewing ADD, I will likely work on a few things at once.  Hah.

Until next time...be well!

L

Jalie 2559: Getting Started

This is the fourth item of my 2012 SWAP and I'm moving right along with construction.  Jalie writes fantastic instructions for their patterns.  Not only are the instructions thorough and easy to read, the drawings are amazingly clear.  Unfortunately, I have already had some issues with constructing this jacket.

Preshrinking the Fabric
I should have known that this was going to be a PITA project labour of love when I attempted to preshrink the wool flannel in the dryer.  I only meant to leave the fabric in for about 30 minutes.  10 hours and about a yard later, I remembered it was in there.  I am almost certain I had at least 3.5 yards.  Upon measuring, there was about 2.6 yards left. 

Pattern Alterations
Fortunately, what remained was enough to cut out the jacket.  While cutting out the main pieces, it occurred to me that I needed to make the same swayback alteration on the lining piece since the pattern includes separate pieces for shell and lining. After staring at the pattern for several seconds, I noticed that I goofed up the swayback adjustment.  I took out a wedge of 5/8" from side seam to center back, tapering to nothing at the center back.  This is suppose to be done the other way around.  I have NO idea what I was thinking when I did this.  Since I had already cut out the fashion fabric. there was nothing I could do about it.  I just hope that it won't look like too much of a hot mess. As for other alterations, I shortened the sleeve 1.5 inches and that's it!  I made a muslin cutting a straight size Z.  

Welt Pockets
I had some fears about doing a welt pocket since I had never done one before.  I can't emphasize enough how super simple and clear the instructions are.  Before cutting into my jacket, I practiced the technique on some wool flannel and cotton flannel scraps.

outside                                               inside

Not bad, eh?  Yeah, well.  It was pretty bad when I tried to sew the welt pockets for real.  Interfaced wool flannel and welt pockets simply do not mix.  At.  All.  There was just too much bulk in the area of the welt to turn under evenly.  I stitched and unpicked the welt at least five times - each try never improving in look or feel. I decided to scrap the welt pocket idea after already cutting the jacket open at the pocket line.  Determined to save this project, I zigzagged the opening closed and sewed the pocket flap over top.  I need to think of a way to keep the pocket flaps from...um...flapping so as to permanently conceal the welt pocket failure.  Any suggestions?

I've made more progress on the jacket and will describe how I inserted sleeve heads and set the sleeves in my next update.

Until then, be well!

L