The Flag Skirt (New Look 6300)

I thought it was a good idea when I planned it:  pick three colours that coordinate with fabrics from my intended six piece wardrobe combination (6PAC) and make a colour-blocked skirt.  While putting the skirt together, I couldn’t help but think I was paying homage to some foreign country.  Out of pure curiosity, I consulted the Google and US State Department’s website and didn’t find anything.  On with the review...
 

 Fabric & Notions:

• 7/8 yard of  golden yellow linen-rayon blend for the upper right front and back
• 1/2 yard of teal linen-rayon blend for the upper left and lower right front
• 5/8 yard of cream linen-rayon blend for the lower left front
• 7-inch invisible zipper
• 1-inch wide petersham cut to waist measurement plus extra for overhang 

(Note:  The yardages given are for 45" wide fabric.  My linen measured 60" and I have several sizable pieces left over.  It is certainly possible scale down the required amount of fabric.)

Fitting:

New Look 6300 is TNT for me.  I’ve made several garments from this pattern and always return to it when I need an A-line skirt in a flash.  I started with a size 16 and fit the hips and waist as I sewed. 

Construction:

In the process of cutting out and assembling the pieces, I somehow got confused with "left" and "right" so my skirt is a vertical reflection of the line drawing.

I wanted every seam to be as flat as possible, so I finished the raw edges first before stitching.  I carefully pressed each seam open to keep the serged edge from showing on the right side.  I omitted the facings and opted to finish the waist with petersham as I have done in other skirts.  Finally, I sewed a blind hem since the lower edge of the skirt had multiple colours.

Conclusion:

When I first finished the skirt, I wasn’t too enthusiastic about it.  Having stared at it for a week now, it’s definitely grown on me and I can see working it into the 6PAC.

The 6PAC

For those that are unfamiliar with this concept, it’s a simple sewing plan that involves creating six seasonal garments in three months.  I don’t know what it is about this wardrobe plan/sew along, but I seem to do well with this concept.  I think the relaxed nature of the plan and extensive time designated to sewing it makes it easier for me.  More information and ideas can be found in this thread on Stitcher’s Guild (SG). 

For the Summer 6PAC, I intend to complete the following garments:

New Look 6300 – colour-blocked skirt (complete)

Simplicity 2422 – black cotton jacket (75% complete)

Simplicity 2614 – yellow stretch cotton poplin (50% complete)

Vogue 1224 – floral rayon knit (muslin cut out)

McCall’s 6078 – floral rayon knit

New Look 6897 – teal linen skirt (cut out)

The idea is to extend these garments into the Fall 6PAC which includes some of the same colours.  I tried almost the same plan last fall but didn’t get around to finishing it.  I ran out of steam and decided to focus on other things.  When the Fall plans are posted on SG, I’ll update my tentative plan to reflect the garments needed.  I definitely plan to sew a couple pair of pants and finish my Lady Grey coat.

That’s all for now.  Until next time, be well!

L

Simplicity 2473: Complete

After countless incidents of seam-ripping and much re-fitting, the red silk dress is finally complete!

Fabric & Notions:

• 2.5 yards of 45" strawberry red silk suiting
• 2.5 yards of red Ambiance lining
• 18" invisible zipper
• fusible interfacing for the midriff band, zipper area, and lining
• 70/10 Microtex sharp needle (for both the shell and lining)
• walking foot (for sewing the lining)

Alterations:

The details of the alterations are detailed in this post.  In summary, here's what I did:

• cut size 14
• lowered the bust fullness 1 1/4 inches
• 2" FBA using the slash & spread method
• 5/8" broad back adjustment
• 1" sway back adjustment
• lowered front neckline 1"
• shortened the skirt 2 1/4 inches

Upon cutting out the fashion fabric, I added an extra half-inch to the side seams for fit insurance.  I ended needing to take this back out, plus more because the bodice seemed boxy.  The dress doesn't fit quite as nicely as the muslin and there are a couple of reasons why.  First the midriff band is too low and a bid too wide. After having done many FBAs, I am learning that the extra length created by the slash & spread method is sometimes too much for my frame.Second, I have picked up some weight.  The muslin pictures were taken in the middle of April and I can definitely see a weight change.

Lining:

In an effort to finish the dress, I neglected to take any in-progress pictures of the lining.  I used the same process of stabilizing and installing the lining as detailed in my pattern review of Simplicity 2648.  Since I didn't include the facings, I supported the neckline and armhole areas with fusible interfacing.  To create the interfacing pieces, I measured down two inches from the cut line in each area and blended as needed.  I fused the interfacing directly to the wrong side of the lining and proceeded with sewing as normal.  The pictures below are from S2648.

 

Construction:

I sewed all of the seams on my machine and finished the edges individually on my serger.  I started out using an 80/12 needle, but found that the needle punctured the fabric rather forcefully.  Switching to the smaller Microtex needle solved the problem.  All seams on the shell were pressed open to reduce bulk while seams on the lining were serged together.

Other:

I removed the belt loops.  They were too big and floppy and looked odd with a skinny belt.  When I make this again, I will adjust the size of the loops so that they lie closer to the dress.
  
Conclusion:

I share Kyle and Rachelle's sentiments about the fabulousness of this pattern as well as other sewers on Pattern Review.  This is a good pattern with lots of possibilities for design as well as fit.  I definitely intend to make it again and will likely include it in my fall 6PAC wardrobe plan.

Up next:  comments about the dressapalooza and a summer 6PAC wardrobe plan

Until next time, be well!