Vogue 2921: Wadder

I've been searching for some pants with back princess seams similar to Vogue 9032.  Why not use Vogue 9032 you say?  Because angled side pockets have NEVER looked good on my hips.  Ever - not even 20 years and 50 pounds ago.

Vogue 9032

So when I happened upon OOP Vogue 2921 at the 2015 MPB Day pattern swap, I was elated!  My butt-princess seam pant pattern search was over.

Vogue 2921

Except no.  Big no. The cut of these pants is WAAAAAY too wide or something.  Only now after having looked at the line drawings do I realize that the cut is completely different.  V9032 appears to hug the hips more gracefully and taper at the hem.  The legs on V2921 are like stovepipes.

I started with a size 16 and have removed a considerable amount of width from the inseam, outseam, and princess seam.  The result?  Not good.

The photos are overexposed to show the detail/twist/WTFery.

I'm sure I cut everything on grain, so the twist that's happening from the knee down is probably from taking out so much width.  I don't think starting with a smaller size will help either.

This is actually my third time attempting this pattern.  The first time was a muslin that looked promising.  For the second attempt, I used rayon-poly-lycra suiting and it was a MESS.  The current pair is made from a lightweight wool suiting that I picked up from my recent splurge at my local non-profit art store (gotta blog about this latest haul!).

I could take all of the extra stitching out to retain the original width.  But then it looks like I'm all pants and nothing else.

I wonder if I can somehow trace the front of 2921 onto the front of 9032.  I'm hesitant to use the complete front of 2921 because of the leg shaping.  Hmm...

Any thoughts?  I could cut the legs off at the knee and make knickers.  But then I know I would never wear them! =)

L

 

Siimplicity 2284

I cannot express enough the awesomeness that is Simplicity 2284.

The back isn't this wrinkly.  I took these pictures after a long day at work.

I first made this jacket back in May and wear it often.  I don't know how many zipper-front jackets I need, but I wouldn't mind making two or three more! 

My favorite part is the sleeve vent.  The buttons...I LOOOOOVE the buttons!

I found these a few years ago at an independent craft store that's been around since I was little.  The buttons are glass and the same color as the fabric. 

I added my usual tailoring techniques:  back stay, fully interfaced front and hems, and sleeve heads.  

 

Sewing lining is always a MAJOR pain for me.  Slippery fabrics and I just don't bond well and this jacket almost didn't get finished because of said slipperiness.

As I was cutting out the back lining, the fabric must have shifted, and as a result, this happened:

O_o  

Damn slippery fabric.

There was no way to fudge this either because the sleeve notches were off by more than an inch.  I ended up fusing a scrap of lining to the edge of the back and re-cutting this area.  Hopefully it will hold up.  I *could* have cut a new back lining piece, but since I was pressed for time, I had to improvise.

I added piping between the lining and facing.  I like this little detail and can see it being worked into all of my jackets.  Maybe I'll try making my own with bias striped fabric.  Hmm.

This pattern is definitely a TNT.  

 Simplicity 2284

(top:  Simplicity 2599, skirt:  BWOF 1-2015-109)

Up next?  Regular stress-less sewing.  I started working on another version of New Look 6407 at the beginning of September and am in the process of cutting out a pair of pants using Vogue 2921 (OOP).  

Until next time, peace!

L