Based on my full bust measurement, I started with an XL. I didn't use the HB measurement because I wanted to have extra room to wear over fall/early winter clothes. I lowered the bust fullness 1" and added 5/8" in width at the bust line. The muslin felt a little snug and since my fabric is thick, I figured I needed the extra room. If I need any more room, I think taking smaller seam allowances will be enough.
Shoulders
Since I started with an XL, the shoulder seam is too long. I will take larger seam allowances on the front and back princess seams, tapering back to 5/8 above the bust.
Swayback
Since my fabric has a pretty sizable print, I decided not to add a center back seam to do the sway back adjustment. Instead, I took out 3/4" of length from the center back and added this amount to the bottom. This shortens the back-waist length to match mine but keeps the side back seam length the same.
Sleeves
The bicep area of the sleeves was a little restrictive. I added a 5/8" fish-eye wedge; hopefully this will be enough. Again if I need the extra room, I can take smaller seam allowances.
Up next: Creating the Lining Pieces
Until next time, peace!
L
Love that print and perfect for the pattern. Thanks for sharing your alterations.
ReplyDeleteThis is going to be beautiful - good luck :)
ReplyDeleteLOVING that fabric. Eager to see it made up.
ReplyDeleteCool fabric! It will look fabulous when finished.
ReplyDeleteI love the fabric and would enjoy sewing this coat in the fabric. Looks great!
ReplyDelete