The
pattern doesn't include a lining, but I want to add so that the coat goes over my clothes smoothly. I'm still trying to decide if I want to use the Kasha flannel-backed satin lining or something else. My fabric is not only thick, but heavy and adding the Kasha lining will make it even heavier.
In the meantime, I decided to follow the instructions on Tilly's blog (Tilly and the Buttons) to make the lining pieces. Tasia from Sewaholic wrote a tutorial on how to turn regular pattern pieces into lining pieces. For skirts, I normally just cut out the same pieces in lining fabric and proceed. But for jackets/coats, Tasia suggests small adjustments to make the lining fit more properly within the garment. She explains how to do this in great detail here: Sewaholic tutorial: Drafting a jacket lining. Here are the adjustments I made to each piece.
Side Front: I added 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point, tapering to nothing away from the point.
Front: Since my pattern has shoulder princess seams, to follow Tasia's tutorial I pinned the side front and center front together at the seam allowance.
Side Front: I added 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point, tapering to nothing away from the point.
Front: Since my pattern has shoulder princess seams, to follow Tasia's tutorial I pinned the side front and center front together at the seam allowance.
Then I placed the facing piece on top of the front coat piece and proceeded with the instructions. I used the grainline on the side front to establish one of the front lining piece.
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| side front and front lining pattern pieces |
Side Back: I added 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point, tapering to nothing away from the point.
Back: After correcting the back facing (discussed in a previous post), I traced the facing on the back and added two seam allowances as suggested by Tasia. I also added a 5/8" seam allowance along the center back and a 1" ease pleat.
Sleeve: The additions here are the same as on the side front and side back. Add 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point.
Lower and Sleeve Bands: The only thing I did was remove a hem allowance of 1.25" from the bottom.
I've begun assembly and will post in-progress shots and a quick update soon. Initially, I was going to hand-tailor the coat with hair canvas, padstitching, etc. But I decided to save all of that work for two other coats that I want to make before December/January.
Previous posts on this project:
L
Thanks for sharing your alterations and links.
ReplyDeleteYou're welcome. =)
DeleteL, That was a neat tutorial by Tasia, on how to make your lining pattern. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteGreat progress on the coat! And what? Two more coats before winter! Girl, you are on a roll. Tell me what do you eat for breakfast?
No problem. =) I see two more coats in my mind. Reality is another thing. =)
DeleteI had completely forgotten about Tasia's tut on lining so I'm grateful for the reminder as I'm about to make a jacket for my daughter that doesn't include one. Your coat is coming along nicely and thank for all your details in the process.
ReplyDeleteYou're welcome. It's a great tutorial; I don't even remember how I found it.
DeleteFrom my observation, the more you labor over a project the more precious the finished product. Your coat is going to be lovely and you are going to love it!
ReplyDeleteThanks Faye. I hope it turns out okay. I have some concerns about the lining and ultra thickness at the neckline. There are going to be about 5-6 layers of super thick fabric at the neckline. I might hand-sew this area.
Delete