Pictures of IJ740 & Jean-style Jackets

Here are some photos of me wearing the coat.  I am so happy I ditched the belt!

These pictures were taken outside of the pottery studio.  I wanted to have a background that looked kind of rustic so that the coat really stood out.  These photos were also taken by the studio owner and my teacher, Mike.  Thanks Mike!  

I'm in the process of completing my review for the contest and will submit it shortly.  Wish me luck!

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Thank you for sharing your thoughts about jean-style jackets and fit.  I also emailed Kenneth D. King and asked for his thoughts.  He pretty much said what everyone else said:  it's a matter of personal preference, though he prefers the centers front to meet or else it looks as if the jacket doesn't fit properly.

I stopped working on the Cynthia Rowley (S2443) pattern.  After making four muslins for the front, I decided it wasn't worth it.  It's a cute jacket, but I don't want to fuss with something that may not even be flattering.  Instead, I started sewing Kwisk Sew 2895 and hope to have it finished before Monday. 

Until next time, peace!

L

Okay, So It's Not My Signature

Remember this?  

 

Doesn't this look like a heart and a cursive capital letter L?  Love, L.  Awww...

There's more where that came from:

I bought the fabric at the end of April completely excited about making the coat.  But when I got it home, I was disappointed to realize just how stiff it was.  I mulled taking it back because it really, REALLY would have been a pain to work with.

I had a small swatch and washed it to see if that would help.  The swatch softened up a bit, but I wasn't sure if I could trust the whole piece to soften in the same way.  So I sat it on a shelf in my sewing room and left town. 

After thinking about it some more, I decided that I was going to return it once I came home.  The fabric was around $17/yard (on sale) and I didn't want to waste the money.  Who has time to sew a coat out of cardboard?  What is this, an unconventional challenge on Project Runway?  Nerp.

Then it happened.

I saw someone walking around Sydney wearing a coat with a pattern very similar to the fabric. Cardboard be damned:  I was making this coat!

I put the whole 2.5 yards in the washing machine with detergent and a little bit of fabric softener.  I also put it in the dryer on the low-heat setting.  Ah-ha!  Success.  The fabric softened very nicely.  Although it still had elements of its former cardboard life, it was MUCH easier to handle and sew.

I probably should have washed and dried it a couple of more times.  However, I noticed that this fabric picks up lint and fuzz balls like a raging dust buster.  Another wash or two and I may have been completely discouraged from the project.

Pattern:  The pattern is Indygo Junction 740.  I made this in August of last year and LOVE it.  Wearing this coat makes me happy, so why not double that good feeling? =)

Fabric & Lining:  Just like last time, I used upholstery fabric purchased from...wait for it...Joann's!  I almost never buy fabric from them because it's icky and expensive - can't be both.  Occasionally I'll find a good piece or two.  Most of the time, though, I don't.

The bolt label said that the fabric is 70% polyester and 30% cotton.  I think the off-white base is polyester and the thread for the swirls is cotton.  The fabric is two ply with both plies held together by all of the stitching.

The lining is black flannel-backed Kasha..  I love this stuff; it sews and presses nicely.  

Tailoring:  I included the same techniques as before:  sleeve heads; back stay; and fusible interfacing on the front, side front, facings, and all hems.

Construction:  I finished all edges of the shell first, then pressed them open with a clapper.  Since the fabric was bulky, this was the only way to get nice, flat seams.  

I hemmed the coat using a blind hem and ivory-colored thread. 

I also added side seam pockets.  This is something I didn't do on the first version and I wish I had. 

Murphy's Law demands that I will set one sleeve at least three times.  It happens with every jacket/coat.  The right sleeve went in perfectly with no puckers.  The left sleeve just would NOT cooperate.  I was one minute away from hemming the coat when I looked at the sleeve and took it out...again.  I set it two more times and pressed the hell out of it.  Meh.  It's marginally better, but still not quite right.

Ugh.  The wrinkles!  It's the sleeve head; I think I pulled too tightly.  I'm not setting this sleeve for a fifth time because the sleeve cap is already stretched out.  Any more fuss and I'll have to replace the whole sleeve.  Y'all know that's not happening. 

I added some of the same sea foam green piping between the facing and lining.

As for the picture on the right, we will not speak on the franken-fabric meld that occurred to make this part work.  I have no idea what happened with the facing assembly, but trust me  it is a hot mess in there.  Fortunately the fix can't be seen from the outside.  I just hope it holds!

Other Stuff:  

The buttons are ceramic and handmade by moi.  For the pottery folk, the glaze fired to cone 6 and is called Palladium by Amaco. The color looks black, but it's really a dark metallic silver.  Yum!

I got the collar roll right this time, Rachelle!  On the first version, despite trimming the under collar and cutting it on the bias, the collar would not roll.  I made sure to encourage the roll more aggressively on this one.

I made a belt, but I didn't like it.  Something about it just didn't feel like the first version.  Even if I were to sew a button onto the belt, I still wouldn't like it.  So, I took the belt loops off and chucked the belt.  The coat has no shaping, but that's okay; it's a coat!  It's not supposed to be form fitting.

This will be my entry into Pattern Review's Outerwear Contest.  I didn't even know it was going on until recently. 

I hope to take pictures wearing the coat later this week.  I want to get prettified and have the photos taken outdoors.  Kinda goes with the spirit of the garment, ya know?

Up next:  I have a couple of things in queue.  I want a denim jacket after seeing (and drooling over) Valerie's version of Butterick 5616.  I made a muslin of Kwik Sew 2895 and Simplicity 2443, but they don't fit.  Surprise, surprise.

Random non-sewing comment:  Anyone else watching 24:  Live Another Day?  I used to be ALL IN with 24.  Since season 6, I've started comparing the number of times Jack says "Damn it!" to the number of times I say, "This is stupid."  So far, I'm winning. 

Until next time, peace!

L

Indygo Junction 740 (coat): Complete

Finally the coat is done!  Except for a couple of snaps.  And belt loops.  And good press.  

I FREAKIN' LOVE THIS COAT!  I thought I wouldn't get a chance to wear it until October.  But because Michigan weather is wrong on so many levels, I can actually wear it now.  

Let me tell you about this weather.  Wednesday, the high was 95F.  Friday night, there were frost and freeze warnings.  The high was 66F today.  Do you see what I'm talking about?  Wrong.  Just wrong.  Excuse me, Michigan, can we ease into this freeze?  My body doesn't appreciate being shocked like that.  Humid and 95 to breezy and cold is a bit much.  Thanks.

Okay.  Back to the coat.

Fabric & Notions:

• 2 yards of upholstery fabric (main body)
• 1 yard of upholstery fabric (sleeve and lower bands)
• 2 yards of Kasha flannel-backed satin lining
• 1.5 packages of Wright's piping
• fusible interfacing for the front, side front, collar, and all hems
• small piece of pre-washed muslin for back stay
• 2 11" x 3 " bias-cut polar fleece for sleeve heads
• 90/14 universal needle
• large and medium-sized snaps
• single belt buckle 

Machine Setup:

• regular machine with walking foot
• serger with medium-brown thread

Alterations, Pattern Changes, & Lining:

I wrote a series of posts about the changes I made to this pattern.  For more info, please visit these links:

Sizing & Alterations

Pattern Errors

Altering the Upper Collar

Lining Pieces

Construction Highlights:

Light Tailoring

I was going to go all out and do padstitching, hair canvas - the whole nine.  But since I have at least one more coat on my radar before the year ends, I scratched that idea and took the easy route.  I fused interfacing to the entire front and side front panels, cut the under collar on the bias and fused interfacing to it, inserted a back stay, and added sleeve heads for cap support.  

 

I cannot stress enough how nice it is to use sleeve heads to help set in a sleeve.  My fabric was thick and I don't think using the two rows of ease stitches would have been enough to set the sleeve in nicely.  I have ZERO puckers on my sleeves and got them both in on the first try.  If you haven't used sleeve heads on your jackets or coats, do it!!  Now!  =)

Order of Construction

The instructions have you construct the bodice and bands separately, then attach the bands to the bottom of the coat.  Instead, I added the bands to each panel (side front, front, side back, and back) so that I could fit the vertical and side seams as I sewed.  This way just makes more sense to me.

The fabric raveled A LOT so I finished the edges first before sewing them together.  I used my wooden clapper to help get nice flat seams and to reduce bulk.  The seams on the lining were serged together and pressed to one side.

Lining

I decided not to bag the lining and let it hang loose.  I wanted to be able to get access to the inside in case I need to adjust further for fit or repair some future weak spot.  Like I said, the fabric raveled something awful and even though I serged, I'm not sure how it's going to hold up after lots of wear.  After making the lining pieces and all of the other changes, I intend to wear the hell out of this coat.

Since my lining isn't bagged, I wasn't sure how to finish the area where the piping ends.  So I cut out some of the cord from the end, tucked the end piece under and stitched it in place.  I make a note to think about this more the next time (oh yeah, there will be a next time).

Conclusion:

Though this coat took a lot of work, I am SOOOOO glad that I pushed through and finished.  There were times that I felt like sending this project to Area 51 - the real one.  I had already had the fabric and pattern for at least six years and waiting another year would have been nothing.  The simple truth is that I was afraid of ruining the fabric.  When I thought about it, I realized that this fabric I like so much is just going to continue gathering dust and not ever be enjoyed UNLESS I do something with it.  So, I got over my fear and just cut.  It was the right decision.  =)

I want to take a moment to thank everyone who showed some love and support through the making of this coat.  I am very grateful to be among a group of goodhearted folks like you. 

Up next:  I wanted  to try making a woven button-front blouse for BeaJay's Scary September Challenge.  But, I think I will sew something that doesn't take much thought right now.  I'd like to make a few pieces from my Fall 6PAC plan that I have yet to blog about.  Most of the patterns are TNTs so these shouldn't be to hard to sew.


Until next time, peace!

The Questions & Other Stuff

Based on some conversations on PR, Debbie Cook of Stitches and Seams asked and answered some questions about her sewing habits.  Knowing that us blog-folk like to share, it'll be no time before everyone is posting their own answer to "The Questions."  Since I like hopping on and off bandwagons from time to time, here are my answers:

1.  Do you cut with your fabric RS or WS out?

I cut with the fabric mostly WS out.  This way, I can make all of my markings as I lift the pattern paper.  For plaids (which I have yet to sew), single-layer pieces, or when watching motif placement is important, I cut with the right side out. 

2.   How do you make your pattern markings?

It depends on the fabric.  Most of the time, I use old pieces of natural soap or wax tracing paper for dots, darts, or other important markings.  For white or delicate fabrics, I use small pieces of low-tack painters tape to mark the right/wrong side and dots.  To mark notches, CF, CB, or fold lines, I snip into the seam allowances.

3.  Do you follow the cutting layout in patterns?

Nope, though I used to when I first started sewing.  At some point in time, I stopped looking.  I try to lay out the patterns to minimize waste.

4.  Are you obsessed with re-folding your pattern tissue on or very close to the original fold lines?

Never.  Well, maybe not never.  I take the time to fold BWOF magazine and Jalie pattern sheets.  If I need to trace a pattern, I cut around the piece(s) to be traced and then fold it in anyway that makes it fit back into the envelope.  If the pattern has lots of pieces and tracings, I put them both into a 1-gallon Ziploc bag - again folded any old kind of way.

5.  Do you make all of the markings?

Most of the time.  I save buttonholes for the end.  Notches, tuck lines, and anything that helps construction are marked.

Anyone else jumping on "The Questions" bandwagon?

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The only thing I have left to do with the Indygo Junction coat is the hem.  I've played around with the belt several times and can't find a layout that I like.  So, I will probably not stitch the belt to the coat and, instead, leave it free hanging with belt loops or a buckle.  I am still waiting on the buttons.  They didn't go in the last firing and I don't know when they will.  In the meantime, I will get some pictures in the next couple of days.

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My next sewing project will be....wait for it...an attempt at a button-front woven blouse.  Anyone who knows my sewing history knows that this has been a quest for a LONG time.  I decided to join BeaJay's Scary September challenge (original post) and resume the quest for a good-fitting woven blouse.  She's already posted an update of risk-takers.  At this rate, I might be rolling my project into Onerous October.  =) 

Until next time, peace!

L

Almost Finished. Holla!

I am really close to finishing the coat and, honestly, I am glad.  Project fatigue is starting to set in and it's time to move on to something else.  All that's left to do is to tack down the facing, sew the hem, attach/do something with the belt, and attach the buttons.  

The pattern calls for elastic loops to secure the buttons.  I have no idea where to find this notion or how to make them.  I was thinking of getting some hair twisty things and using that. We'll see.

The buttons I intend to use will be about 1.5 inches and ceramic.  I made a set for this coat earlier this year, but the color isn't quite the same.  I made six more last week and need to have them bisque fired, glazed, and fired again.  That process will probably take a couple of weeks.

Anyway, here's where the coat stands now.  

 

The neck area was challenging to sew because of all of the thickness, but I managed.  I neglected to serge-finish the neckline, so I hope it doesn't ravel too much.  It will be a hot mess if it does and a royal pain in the ass to correct.

I am SOOOOOO glad I went with the Kasha lining.  The coat is very warm and feels divine.  The upholstery fabric is some sort of polyester on the outside and a super soft cotton/poly blend chenille on the inside.  Adding the lining did make the coat much heavier and much more snug.  But the trade off of extra warmth without feeling sticky or being shocked by static is totally worth it.

I L.O.V.E. the piping accent.  I think I will include piping between the facing and lining on every single jacket.  Seriously!  This little detail gives such a nice and professional look.

Oh and Tasia's (Sewaholic) tutorial on creating lining pieces?  FANTASTIC!  Everything went together smoothly.  I can't recommend this tute enough.

That's all for now.  I'll probably finish up the hem and facing today.  Photos of the finished coat and a full review will be posted soon.  Gotta get the buttons!

L

Indygo Junction 740: Back Lining Photos

If I work really hard (i.e., work at all), I might be able to finish the coat this weekend.  Instead of bagging the lining, I will let it hang free.  I figured it would be pretty hard to try and pull such thick fabric and lining through a small opening in the side seam.   In the meantime, here are some photos of the lining.

I bought some seafoam green piping a few years ago simply because it was $0.25.  I had no idea what to do with it, but figured it might be useful some day.  When I saw that it was a close match to the green in the coat fabric, I decided to use it as a border between the lining and front/back facings.  

This is my second time working with piping, so I don't know if what I'm doing is correct; I'm just winging it as I go along. =)  I do know that I need to remove the piping from the shoulder seam allowance to reduce bulk.  What I don't know is if I should have inserted the piping all at once with the front facing or do it in stages as shown above.

Today, I hope to finish the front lining, insert the piping, and attach the facings.

I am thinking about redoing the collar.  It's pretty bulky right now and I think I may have some issues sewing through all of the layers once I attach the facing-lining unit.  I have enough fabric to cut the upper collar and can cut the undercollar out of lining.  I'll think on that a bit more.

Until next time, peace!

L

 

Kasha Called and I Answered

I am a lining snob.  There.  I said it and I own it.  I have to use Bemberg, Kasha, silk, cotton, or silk/cotton. 

I bought some cheap polyester lining to see how I would like it in my coat.  It took all of ten seconds for me to realize that polyester was not happening.  It was hot, sticky, and full of static.  Um....nerp. 

Besides, I bought the Kasha lining specifically for this coat.  There is no need to be afraid to use it.  Deepika (from PR) once told me, "There will always be more fabric.  It is time we must preserve."  Agreed.  I cut the Kasha today and will post another update soon.


 L

Indygo Junction 740: First Photos

The shell of the coat is complete.  Next is to cut and sew the lining.  I'm still trying to decide what type of lining to use:  Kasha or polyester.  I'll think on it a few days before proceeding.  In the meantime, here are some photos.

 

The design is remarkably symmetric throughout the coat.  I did not intend to do this and tried not to put circles near the bust.  Having it sewn together, the circles on the front aren't as bad as I originally thought.

Until next time, peace.

L

Indygo Junction 740: Lining Pieces

The pattern doesn't include a lining, but I want to add so that the coat goes over my clothes smoothly.  I'm still trying to decide if I want to use the Kasha flannel-backed satin lining or something else.  My fabric is not only thick, but heavy and adding the Kasha lining will make it even heavier.

In the meantime, I decided to follow the instructions on Tilly's blog (Tilly and the Buttons) to make the lining pieces.  Tasia from Sewaholic wrote a tutorial on how to turn regular pattern pieces into lining pieces.  For skirts, I normally just cut out the same pieces in lining fabric and proceed.  But for jackets/coats, Tasia suggests small adjustments to make the lining fit more properly within the garment.  She explains how to do this in great detail here:  Sewaholic tutorial:  Drafting a jacket lining.  Here are the adjustments I made to each piece.

Side Front:  I added 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point, tapering to nothing away from the point.

Front:  Since my pattern has shoulder princess seams, to follow Tasia's tutorial I pinned the side front and center front together at the seam allowance.

Then I placed the facing piece on top of the front coat piece and proceeded with the instructions.  I used the grainline on the side front to establish one of the front lining piece.

side front and front lining pattern pieces

Side Back:  I added 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point, tapering to nothing away from the point.

Back:  After correcting the back facing (discussed in a previous post), I traced the facing on the back and added two seam allowances as suggested by Tasia.  I also added a 5/8" seam allowance along the center back and a 1" ease pleat. 

Sleeve:  The additions here are the same as on the side front and side back.  Add 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point. 

Lower and Sleeve Bands:  The only thing I did was remove a hem allowance of 1.25" from the bottom.

I've begun assembly and will post in-progress shots and a quick update soon.  Initially, I was going to hand-tailor the coat with hair canvas, padstitching, etc.  But I decided to save all of that work for two other coats that I want to make before December/January. 

Previous posts on this project:

Sizing & Alterations

Pattern Errors

Altering the Upper Collar

L

Indygo Junction 740: Altering the Upper Collar

In my last post, I commented on number of mistakes that exist.  While inconvenient, the mistakes are minor and easy to fix.  Having a collar that in NO WAY fits the neckline is a problem.  Big problem.

This is not a traditional notched collar as the line drawing appears to suggest.  PR member Nancy2001 explained that the collar on this coat doesn't have a gorge line that is sewn to meet the lapel.  When I compared the collar and center front pieces of this pattern to that of the Jalie 2559 and Kwik Sew 3558 patterns, it totally makes sense.  In the Jalie and Kwik Sew patterns, there are clear stop & start points marked so that this gorge line is sewn correctly.  Now it could be that these markings are missing from the pattern and this really is a traditional notched collar.  I don't know.  

I decided to view this as a non-tradtional notched collar and forget about the gorge line.  Doing so didn't fix the fact that the neckline seam is too long by THREE full inches.  o_O  

In this photo, you can see that the neckline seam extends almost to the edge of the lapel.  I could have continued sewing, but stopped because I thought I was supposed to.  Unreal.  I didn't know the best way to fix this problem, so I tried a few things.

Fix #1: Lop off 3 inches from CB seam

This didn't work because I neglected the fact that the upper collar is cut on the fold.  Removing  three inches actually results in six inches total removed.    

Result:  Collar neckline seam is way too small.

Fix#2:  Lop off 1.25 inches from CB seam

This was close, but not quite correct.  I could ease the neckline to fit the collar, but why do that when I could take out more width?

Result:  Collar neckline seam is still too big.

Fix #3:  Lop off 1.5 inches from CB seam

Perfect...almost.  Taking off 1.5 inches from the CB seam was the right fix.  The shoulder notches finally matched and the seam length was correct.  However, there is a new problem:  the outer edge is now too short.  Removing 1.5 inches (3 inches total) from the neckline also resulted in the same loss on the outer edge.  This caused the collar to not sit properly on the neck.

Result:  Collar neckline seam is the correct length, but the outer edge is too short.

The picture below shows the original collar (beige) and the three fixes mentioned above.

Fix #4:  Lop off 1.5 inches from collar neckline, tapering to nothing at outer edge

At first I thought about taking the whole 1.5-inch wedge all at once.  I figured this would substantially throw off the grain and make the collar all kinds of wonky - thus requiring a fifth fix.  Instead, I shortened the collar neckline in the same way I would contour a straight waistband.  I removed three 0.5-inch wedges spaced one inch apart.

1. Starting one inch from the CB seam, I marked three vertical lines, spacing each line one inch apart.
2. On each side of the vertical line, I measured and marked 0.25 inches. 
3. I constructed a dart by drawing diagonal line segments from each mark to the outer edge of the collar, matching the end of the vertical line.
4. Finally, I made a fold on each vertical line, matching each dart leg.

Here is a picture of the adjusted pattern piece:

Here are pictures of the adjusted collar on the coat:

Result:  Collar neckline seam is the correct length and the outer edge of the collar sits properly on the coat.

While the pattern doesn't include a separate under collar piece, the instructions do suggest trimming the side and long edges 1/8" to help turn-of-cloth. (This article in Threads discusses turn-of-cloth very well.)  Rather than use the same piece, I copied the upper collar pattern piece, drew in the bias grainline, added a 5/8" CB seam.  Then I removed 1/8" from the outer and side edges. 

I cut out the shell pieces and have started to assemble the coat.  I might change the name of this coat to the T-n-A coat for reasons that will become all too obvious when you see pictures.  I'll give you a hint:  Big colorful circles tragically strategically placed in all the wrong (or right) places.  I couldn't have planned this more perfectly even if I tried.

Up next:  Lining Pieces

Until next time, peace!

L