Burda 5-2011-113: womp womp

I had major high hopes for this pattern. The versions on Pattern Review are so cute and I LOVE Amanda's version. Alas, it was not to be for me and that's okay. Let's get on with the details of what went wrong.

 

  

Problem 1:  adding seam allowances to armhole princess seams 

I made the first muslin way back in 2021 and had a terrible time adding seam allowances to the armhole princess seams. I could not figure out how to properly sew what resulted in a comically long pointy end. I didn't know how far up (??) I was supposed to extend the seam allowances and it resulted in some weirdness when it came time to sew and press the seam to one side.

 

muslin from 2021

 

Eventually I figured that I can sew to the dot and leave the pointy end loose. Then just tack it down in the seam allowance of the armhole.

 

 

muslin from 2026

 

I started a topic on Threadloop seeking advice because I just knew there had to be another way. One member shared video and a website that explains exactly how to do it, so I am confident that I can properly add seam allowances...on a different jacket pattern. This one is done done.
 

Problem 2:  converting armhole princess seams to shoulder princess seams

 

In the middle of sourcing how to add the seam allowances, I decided to try and convert the armhole princess seams to shoulder princess seams. Members on Pattern Review shared some good tips and a link to an older blog post that showed how to do this. The problem with this pattern is that the side front panel is unusually narrow - at least more narrow than what I am used to.

 

If I were to follow the armhole princess line using this piece, the seam would fall on my side bust and that just doesn't look right at all.

 

So I created my own shoulder princess line on the center front panel which left the invisible waist dart unresolved. Since I love chocolate, I figured I would probably need the extra width and just left it alone.

 

 

I know I did not draw a proper waist curve (near the two pattern weights). In the end, it didn't really matter because the fit was off for other reasons. 

 

The other issue with converting to shoulder princess seams is the seam joining the back to the front is actually about two inches toward the back - and NOT at the shoulder. Not a problem, in theory. But in practice, I ended up with a weird curve in the pattern that doesn't look right or lay properly.

 

At first, I cut this piece off and added seam allowances at the shoulder line. But when sewing the muslin, all the extra seams in this area felt like too much. 

 

You can kind of see the curve near the top of the photo. Armhole princess seams would definitely be better with these design lines.

 

Problem 3:  the jacket is REALLY short 

 

I am five feet tall. Even after adding two inches in length, the un-hemmed jacket barely clears my bust. Dear reader, it is NOT a good look. The proportions are very off and it looks like football padding. It's weird. Very weird. I don't have any pictures because I threw the shell away. It was too much to keep looking at it and I needed immediate separation. 😅

 

Problem 4:  fabric is too lightweight 

 

The fabric I chose was a wool herringbone suiting from Fabric.com (RIP). Even with lining and interfacing, the fabric would've still been too light. This pattern benefits from something much sturdier like denim/twill or wool melton. I still have just under two yards of the fabric, so I'll make a vest or skirt with it.

 

Conclusion:  I will not revisit this pattern again. After two attempts spanning five years, it's safe to say this one isn't for me - unless I do a LOT more adjustments. There are other military-style jacket patterns that I can try for what could be a lot less hassle. Win some, lose some. The pattern pieces have already been recycled. 😎 

 

L 

Pattern Review: Burda 6032 (pants)

This was another pattern on very long sewing list. I don't remember when I bought it, but I've had it for what feels like a long time. 

 

What drew me to the pattern was view A - the one with the side overlays. They reminded me of this cute pair of pants I saw on a lady from years ago. She was short, like me, and the pants  flowed nicely when she walked. 

 

Fast forward to now, I opted to make view B - the one with the side slits and snaps; I didn't have enough fabric to make view A, though it is still on the list. (Wrinkles are from recent wear.)

 

 

Fabric & Notions:

• 2.5 yards black linen
• 80/12 universal needle
• black weft fusible interfacing 
• 10 fashion spring snaps 
• regular sewing and serger thread

Size & Alterations:  I cut a straight size 44 and shortened two inches (one inch above and below the knee). I did not make any changes to the front or back crotch curves. Having worn the pants twice, I realize that I could use a slight scoop on the back crotch curve. They're not uncomfortable, but scooping would help me forget wedgies exist.

 

Construction:  Save for user error, construction was very straightforward. I sewed the darts and assembled the pieces on my regular sewing machine. I finished the edges on my serger, sewed the seams, and then pressed them open. 

 

The front waist overlays are cut from four pieces of fabric - two for each overlay. Since my fabric was on the heavy side, I was worried about that area being too bulky. So I used a thinner black cotton fabric to serve as the underside.

 

 

I think this worked quite well. If I make this again and need to use a different fabric underneath, I will make sure to trim a scant 1/8-inch from the edge to ensure proper turn of cloth. I can see a bit of the underside peeking out here.

 

The instructions show that the pointy end is interfaced, but there is no separate pattern piece. I just traced the pattern to a width that looked reasonable and used it to cut the interfacing.

 

When installing the snaps, I used a 4mm cutter to make the holes. Unfortunately, this was way too big and one of the holes stretched out.

 

 

The other three were cut the same hole size, but haven't failed yet. I'm going to leave them alone for now and repair if needed. For the other side slit, I used a 2.5mm cutter. Those snaps seem to be holding well.

 

To mend the error, I used buttonhole thread to darn over the hole and covered with a small piece of weft interfacing (not pictured). I cut a new hole slightly below the original to better align with the snap. 

 

  

Instructions:  The one review that appears on Pattern Review indicates that the instructions for the waist facing and side slit were awful. When I first read this review, I hesitated to make the pattern. Having sewn many Burda envelope and magazine patterns, I decided to forge on and deal with any issues as they arose. I'm pleased to say that the instructions are clear and not difficult to follow at all. Maybe it's because I'm fluent in Burda-speak? I don't know. I didn't have any problem sewing the side slit, hem, or waist facing.

 

To sew the side slit, first prepare the underlap as instructed (interface, fold in half, press). If I  make these pants again, I would wait to serge leg raw edge until after the underlap is attached and the hem folded in place. This way, the underlap edge is caught in the serging - avoiding the need to finish separately.

 

Place the underlap RST with the back leg. The piece should fit between the marked diagonal stitching line (which appears on the front leg) and the hemline (picture 10).

(Note:  When I shortened the pants, I forgot to remove the extra length from the underlap. I couldn't figure out why my underlaps were so long then it hit me. So if you make length changes, don't forgot to make the changes to the underlap and facing pattern pieces too. After making those changes, I cut new fabric pieces and proceeded with construction.) 

Stitch the underlap to the back leg. Fold the hem onto the underlap and stitch in place (picture 10a). I serged the raw edge of the hem before doing this step. Then finish the entire raw edge from waist to folded hem. This is what's shown in the circled image.

Once sewn, turn hem to the inside and handstitch in place.

Attaching the facing is straightforward too. The only instruction lacking is to finish the raw edge (part that is not sewn to front leg) of the facing.

 

Picture 12 shows that the upper and lower edges of the facing seam allowance are folded as well as the front hem. Do this before sewing the facing to the front leg right sides together. Fold to the inside and press. Handstitch the hem in place. 

    

Overall thoughts:  I really like the pants. The snaps add a nice weight to the leg and keep them stable whilst also allowing for generous movement. I felt really good wearing them and can see making another version of this view along with view A.

 

I find the back zipper unnecessarily cumbersome - maybe because I don't have any pants with back zippers. Hah! Unless the front overlap is supposed to be permanently attached to the front, there is no good reason why the zipper can't be on the center front seam. There is potentially a lot of bulk in the side, so I can see why a side seam zipper would be avoided. But the front? Definitely possible.

 

 

I neglected to get a picture of me wearing the pants. Maybe next time. =)

 

It's a good pattern and I'm glad I finally made it. Fabrics with body and drape are ideal for optimal movement. I give it 5/5.

 

***

 

I started cutting out a skirt pattern from Burda 9-2006. I'm thinking about fall clothes and new garments for this new body. I saw someone say that they do not feel secure in their new body and I understand the sentiment completely. I will continue to work on improving my physical and personal health.

 

L 

 

 

 

 

Mid-year Check In

Here we are more than halfway through 2026 and I don't have that much to show. 

 

To date I have completed a grand total of 8 wearable garments, had a fair number of failures, and participated in lots of stress-related fabric buying. 

Significant weight gain has made me less interested in sewing clothes. I know, I know:  sew for the body you have. I get it. I am working to accept my perimenopausal body and its changes. I admit that it's been hard and I don't always feel the greatest. Adding to that, the home situation is still a steady source of stress and I need to find an alternative; this isn't sustainable and my health is suffering for it.

 

In an effort to make some positive changes, I started going back to the gym. I also started gardening and have spent a great deal of time in the yard with my plants and wild animals. Despite the back-breaking work, it truly has been something I enjoy. The sights and sounds of nature can be restorative.

 

Not much going on in these sewing streets. So far, I made:

• two pairs of exercise pants (Jalie Isabelle)
• knit dress (New Look 6683)
• one pair of leggings (McCall's 6404)
• knit top (Simplicity 4020)
• two woven tops (Burda 8-2025-107 & Vogue 9299)
• skirt (McCall's 7906)

With the exception of the Burda magazine pattern, everything else was a repeat. I tried a few new patterns, but they ended up as failures. Given that my sewing mojo is fragile, I do not hesitate to abandon something that isn't working.

 

Burda 8-2025-107 (top)

 

 

When I first saw this pattern in the August 2025 issue, I wanted the whole set:  top, bustier, and Bermuda shorts. The top fits great (well...it did in May) and I the flouncy-ness of the sleeves. Sadly, the bustier no longer fits so it's hanging in the closet for now. I bought fabric to make the entire set and have a fitness goal to get it done.

 

Simplicity 4020 (top) & McCall's 7906 (skirt)

This wasn't a planned outfit. I have a few cuts of Ankara wax print and just cut this on a whim. After completing these garments, I got on this orange/white/black kick for a while and pulled fabrics to make a mini collection. Unfortunately, the next three garments I made for this set were fails. Oh well.

 

Vogue 9299

This is my favorite Vogue top pattern. It still fits (mostly) so I made another version. I added gold buttons because oooh...shiny and also because I have a crapton of these buttons and I should include shiny everywhere.

 

That's it for an update. I'm working on getting in a better headspace and in better physical health. 

 

As for sewing, I am working on another version of Burda 7827. The fabric I'm using is equal parts great and testing my patience. I am going to keep working on it until I've reached my limit.

 

After this, I want to make Simplicity 3236. I don't know if this is a good idea or not, but I've already invested in the fabric and made a muslin. It's happening...

 

Thanks for reading.

 

L 

 
 

2026 Make Nine

I'm back again to take part in the Make Nine challenge. This is my seventh year doing the challenge and I really enjoy it as it gives me something to focus on throughout the year. I may not always be successful and plans may change, but it's fun for me to have these goals in mind.

 

This year, I intend to again focus on garment types rather than specific patterns. I found it worked best and was able to complete everything in the grid. I talked about the 2025 results here. 

 

I am stepping up the challenge a bit this time. I have two (that's right...TWO) potential plans. The first is similar to last year's grid of garment types:

 

 

The second focuses solely on garments sewn from Burda or Burda Magazine patterns. I have over 20 (!!!) years of Burda magazine and a boatload of Burda envelope patterns and I really want to make better use of this...ahem...collection.

 

 

The Burda plan is quite ambitious because I want to sew some of the more advanced and/or quirky patterns. Here is a small sampling of some of the patterns I'm considering:

 

Just looking at these patterns is giving me a mixture of anxiety and excitement. I don't know if that's a good thing or not. I'll give this some more thought.

 

That's all for now. I am in the process of writing my 2025 Sewing Year in Review post and getting pictures together. That's going to take a minute...

 

Happy new year everyone!

 

L 

 

 

Make Nine 2025 Results (pic heavy)

Before I jump into the topic of this post, I want to apologize for the delay in my replies to comments. I used to get email alerts when comments were posted, but somehow that stopped. I've tinkered with the settings multiple times and searched how to fix the issue - nothing seems to be working. Also, I sometimes have problems replying to comments if I'm logged in. I saw that Sigrid also experienced the same issue. I've been saying for years that I need to look into other blogging platforms; I need to stop saying and start doing.

That said, I really do appreciate everyone who reads my blog and am grateful to dialogue with you in the comments. It may take me a few days to respond and I'm sorry for that.

 

I know it's been a minute since my last post. Working full time and being a full-time caregiver is extremely exhausting. I am still sewing and have made a few garments over the last several months. As always, I will try to share what I can, when I can.

 

On with the Make Nine results...

 

This is the first time I have successfully completed all nine items on the grid. I came very close in 2022 where I made 8 of 9 garments.

 

I owe the success of this year's challenge to the flexibility built in the grid. Rather than select specific patterns, I focused on garment types. If a pattern didn't work or if I had a change of mind, then I could simply pick something else of that type. In prior years, I never made it a strict requirement to stick to the plan, though I did notice that I would lose interest in the plan even if I made a change. 

Favorites

My most favorite is the floral trench coat using Burda 9-2009-104. Making this coat was truly an exercise in perseverance and patience. Despite the pattern only requiring 3 yards of fabric, multiple user-unfriendly mistakes increased that number to 6 yards. Adding to that the extreme use of my seam ripper and half of a 1093-yard spool of thread, this coat nearly took me out. I am so glad I pressed on because I simply adore this coat. I detailed the construction over several blog posts; the final post can be found here.

 

My other favorite from the grid is the Hinterland bag by Lavender & Twine. This was one of my selections from the Handbag Grab Bag (I have a similar one for garments). I have a lot of handbag patterns that I want to sew and, as with garments, indecision is sometimes paralyzing.

 

I didn't know what vinyl or hardware I would use, so I scoured the internet for inspiration. Then I saw this on Lavender & Twine's website:

 

 

(image source:  Lavender & Twine) 

(maker:  Cherelle Le'Ron) 

  

Listen. I was smitten, SMITTEN, I tell you! I loved everything about the light and dark contrasting vinyls and gold hardware. So yeah, I absolutely copied this.

 

I'll write a separate post about sewing this bag and how well it worked on my trip to NYC. Suffice it to say, I LOVE this bag and want to make another one.

 

Good Construction

I really enjoy making button-front shirts. Now that I have a couple of TNT shirt patterns and have gotten comfortable sewing collar stands, I can make a shirt fairly quickly. 

 

For the shirt/top category, I made yet another version of Burda 9-2023-125. I quite like this pattern because I can have fun thinking of ways to arrange the fabric for more visual interest.

 

For the inner cuffs, inner collar stand, under collar, sleeve plackets, and inner front band, I used a navy/white micro check gingham to contrast the outer fabric. The outer cuff, outer front band, outer collar and stand were all cut on the bias. It's hard to pick a favorite shirt because I have so many that I like. This one is definitely high on the list.

 

 

New Garment

I've been wanting to make a vest/waistcoat for a long time. After seeing lots of them in wardrobes and in stores, I wanted one sooner rather than later. I'll admit that I almost gave up on this category because my first two tries didn't go so well.

 

I started with Burda 10-2023-115, but the fit was sketchy. The pattern was too short for my taste and had gaping along the front. I didn't bother trying to make the adjustments. 

 

 

 

Next I tried Simplicity 2556, view C. The fit was fine, but I didn't enjoy making the pattern.

 

 

I especially did not like sewing the v-shape in the back along with the lining. It just didn't look right. I know a good press is needed, but I didn't feel like fooling with it. I'll likely revisit this pattern, but use the pieces that don't have the back notch.

 

 

Finally I gave New Look 6914 a go. After making a muslin and being satisfied with the fit, I cut out the fabric, lining, and interfacing. I missed that the center and side fronts were to be interfaced, so I had to do some un-stitching to correct that. 

        

 

Construction went fairly smoothly and sewing the lining wasn't too bad.

 

  

The only thing I do not like is how the lining opening is finished. I thought I knew how to slipstitch. I do not. When I make this vest again, I'll have to practice slipstitching because this is a whole mess. It's on the inside so no one will see it, but still. It can be much better.

 

Wearables

left (dress):  Burda 9-2006-107

center (pants):  Jalie 2909

right (knit top):  New Look 6648 

 

I am still on the hunt for a TNT woven shirt dress pattern. I think I'm close with Burda 9-2006-107, but I have to find a sleeve that fits this pattern. I tried using a sleeve from another issue but it didn't work at all. The sleeves as drafted are fine, but more suited for cooler weather. I want a shirt dress that I can wear in summer.

 

 

I made Jalie 2909 years ago with decent success. This year, I made the same pattern and relied too much on the stretch of my bengaline fabric to handle my weight gain. Eh...the pants are wearable, but not without a very long shirt to hide the horrible pulling at the waist closure. 😬 Also the waistband is weirdly narrow; I don't remember this from before. I'm in the process of making a second pair in a larger size. We'll see how it goes.

 

 

New Look 6648 is an old favorite that I've made too many times to count. It's quick to sew with only four pattern pieces (front, back, neckband, and lower band).

 

 

For this version, I used a knit from the stash dating back to December 2015. I wanted to replace an older black version of NL6648 that had seen better days.

 

 

The only thing I do differently when sewing this pattern is to not include elastic on the lower band side seams. I don't see the point as the top has the same ruching effect without it.
 

I forgot to include the lounge wear set in the collage. I made both views of Burda 5853. Despite how incredibly comfortable the fabric is, I've not worn this set since I made it. The top as designed has an uneven hem and I don't like how it can sometimes leave my stomach exposed. I'm usually always cold and like to be covered up - even during summer.

 

The pants are perfectly fine, but the elastic is a bit too tight. An easy fix when I get around to it.

 

Disappointment/Fail

The only unsuccessful item on the grid is the knit dress. I have wanted a knit wrapped (mock or full) dress for a long time and have tried several patterns. After the disaster that was the very popular Vogue 8379, I abandoned this style for a while. I decided to try again this year with mixed results. First up is Burda 7187.

 

 

 

The main issue I have with this pattern is the knit facing. I forgot how much I hate knit facings. Why I thought this time would be different I have NO idea. There is no amount of understitching and pressing that will help tame these little bastards. On the dressform, it looks fine, but on me this dress is a mess. The right front flips open because...reasons? I don't know. It's not like it's super heavy or unevenly sewn. It just does what it wants. Can't really see it clearly in this picture, but trust it's not good. It's in the donation bag now.

 

My second attempt was with New Look 6301. I saw so many wonderful versions of this pattern on Pattern Review and had high hopes.

 

 

There is some weirdness going on in the bust area. I can't find my notes for the alterations I made, so my guess is the FBA was too big or not correctly integrated with the pleats. I don't have any immediate intentions to try this pattern again, though I won't get rid of it yet.

That's it for this year's Make Nine! Overall I am really pleased with what I've done and intend to continue with the challenge in 2026. Details to come soon.

 

Happy holidays everyone!

 

L