Make Nine 2023 Results & Basement Update

Edited to add:  I don't know what happened to the photos! Google is doing its random acts of weirdness again. I'll get it corrected.

 

Edit 2:  I think it's fixed...maybe. 

 

It's that time of my sewing year for reflection and updates on new year intentions. I'll save the 'sewing year in review' chatter for a future post. For now, I'm sharing the results of Make Nine 2023.

I had good intentions, as always, but did not get to everything on the list. I lost interest in most of the patterns early on and never went back to make any changes. Ah well. I managed to check four of nine items off the list.

 

McCall's 8286

 

Version 1 (blue & white stripes):  I completed this version back in August. I cut size 16 and made a 1/2-inch FBA. I forgot to copy the FBA to the front overlay and oddly it still fit. Perhaps this piece is supposed to have more drape. I also shortened the dress 6 inches; as drafted it was far too long for my short frame. For this version, I used the curved hem with facings.

I think the fabric I used, although nice, is far too heavy for this design. The sleeves can stand out on their own. Hah! Using snaps for closures made the front even more heavy.

I wore it once in September and felt okay in it. It wasn't fiddly and the heaviness didn't seem to bother me - or I don't remember it bothering me.

Version 2 (gray chambray):  For the second version, I used a lightweight tencel chambray; this fabric is much more appropriate in weight. I opted for the straight hem this time and added four inches to the ties. 

 

I should have used a heavier interfacing for the front band because it's a wee bit flimsy. I finished this in October and by that time it was too cold (for me) to wear it. We'll see how it goes in Spring.

Deep Stash > 8 years

I liked having this category as part of the plan as it encouraged me to use some older fabric. I bought this piece a long time ago after seeing an argyle sweater-vest made by another sewer and wanting a similar look. 

This fabric has been in and out of various donation boxes for YEARS. I pulled it back out earlier this year and there it sat, mocking me and wondering when it was going back in the box. Haha! This time I was determined to cut the fabric and I'm SO glad I did. 

 

Enter my TNT knit top pattern:  Simplicity 9385, sans collar. I used a scrap of wool knit for the sleeves, cuffs, neckband, and hem band. I didn't have enough to make the full hem band width, so I opted for half-width.

The neckband sits quite nicely.

This is certainly one of my favorite versions of S9385.

Closet Core Kelly Anorak

I shared my thoughts about making the jacket here. A clear favorite and I'm so glad I went through with it. It came out exactly as I had envisioned and I enjoy wearing it.

Oro Rosa Magdalena Circle Bag

Another winner from Oro Rosa. She makes great patterns and I enjoy sewing them. As soon as I get my sewing space back together, I have intentions to sew more of her collection. More details about this bag can be found here.

***

Even though I didn't complete the plan, I am happy with the things I made. I carry the handbag often and really love the anorak.

I've not given any thought to Make Nine 2024, though I intend to participate.

 

Basement Update:

In my last post, I shared that I started the process of doing small updates in my basement. I've primed all of the wood panels with two coats of water-based Kilz 2 and settled on a top color.

started with priming the grooves

one coat of primer

two coats of primer

This is the first wall I did. I learned later that feathering the paint in the grooves helped reduce the visibility of the paint lines.

much better

At first I thought I wanted a nice tan color on the walls, but then I quickly changed my mind when I saw how it looked. Having gotten used to how bright it was in the basement, the tan color felt suffocating.

 

So I've decided to go with a color by Glidden called Silent Smoke in an eggshell finish; it's the third color on the right (closest to the door trim). I'm going to take the sample jar back to the hardware store to see if they can add a teeny bit more tint to darken it just a little. The next color on the swatch card is called Whiskers. I want something in between, so I'll see if they can make that happen.

(paint chip on the right)

 

Next is to remove the floor trim, then clean and prime the floor. I wanted to put in a floating floor, but I think peel-and-stick is the way to go. It's a basement and if there is ever another pipe incident, I need things to be easy to clean and not too hard to replace or mend.

 

I also thought of tearing out the old ceiling tiles and painting the joists, duct work, etc. and redoing the lighting situation. But that's a major job and probably left best to when I have a lot more time. I know it's probably better to do the ceiling before the floor, but I don't have any clear vision for that right now. Plus I really miss sewing and want my space back.

 

That's all for now. I need to research compound mitre saws so that I can install new baseboard and ceiling trim. I've never used a saw or installed trim before so if you have some tips, please chime in! In fact, any tips or DOs and DO NOT DOs will be helpful and appreciated!

 

L

Oro Rosa Magdalena

Despite facing some challenges at the beginning of the year, I have been doing some sewing. It's the one thing that keeps me relaxed - at least until the weather warms and I can be outdoors more.

I recently finished the first item from my Make Nine 2023 plan:  Oro Rosa Magdalena.

Listen. I LOVE this bag. Everything about it makes me smile. I feel like I say that about every handbag, but it's true! 😅 It came together as I envisioned and I am pleased with how it looks. Though I debated about using contrasting thread, I'm glad I followed through with it. It adds more visual interest and compliments the hardware nicely.

Sewing was mostly straightforward. There were a couple of mishaps that resulted in having to cut new pieces and restitch some areas (looking at you strap connector). Also binding the raw edges with bias tape is still a struggle, so it's not as professional-looking as it can be. In all, this was fun to make and I am very happy with the finish. Even the dude said it looks good. =)

This is my entry into the Bags and Wallet contest on Pattern Review. Here's a recap of my review:

The finished size is: 10 H x 10 W x 3 D (in.) and 25.4 H x 25.4 W x 7.62 D (cm). There is also a smaller, wristlet-sized wallet (purchased separately) that measures 5 H x 5 W x 2 D (in.) and 12.5 H x 12.5 W x 5 D (cm).

I did not make any changes to the pattern. I did not include the supplies/hardware needed to wear the bag as a backpack.

Alexis (designer for Oro Rosa Patterns) writes wonderfully detailed instructions. Pictures are clearly illustrated and include figure numbers that correspond to the written instructions. For more complex designs or designs that have several pieces, labels are included for printing and assembling cut pieces into stacks. As this is the third pattern I've made from this company, I appreciate the careful thought and consideration Alexis puts into planning construction and writing the instructions. She even includes statements of encouragement cheering you on to finish. Additionally, she invites you to view YouTube tutorials created by other bag makers who walk through the instructions step-by-step. When needed, I referred to SiahSwag's Magdalena video.

I used two types of vinyl: black faux leather and textured reptilian. The lining is a cotton print in colors red, black, and gold. 

 

 

 Hardware (in antique bronze finish unless otherwise noted):

• 2 x cut lengths of #5 nylon metallic coil zipper tape (grey/antique bronze; black/gold)
• 3 x #5 metal zipper pulls (2 x antique bronze; 1 x gold)
• 1 x metal "Handmade" tag
• 10 x large double capped rivets
• 2 x 1" strap ends
• 1 x 1" extra wide strap slider
• 2 x 1" swivel clasps
• 2 x 1" D-rings

 

Structure:  I used three different interfacings for structure: SF101 black fusible woven interfacing (all lining pieces), Decovil - light (strap connectors), and Decovil - heavy (gusset, zipper panels, front & back panels).

Construction: I sewed the bag on my semi-industrial straight stitch machine. I used a 100/16 leather needle, stitch plate for thick fabric, Teflon foot, and hinged zipper foot. For thread, I used Gutermann Tex 100 polyester thread in black and antique bronze in the needles and regular-weight thread (Tex 30) in the bobbin. Other notions used include wonder clips, duct tape (to prevent the back of the "handmade" tag from damaging the lining), and leather silver marking pen. The interior seams were bound with 1/2-inch wide black double fold bias tape.

To apply the rivets, I used my KAMSnaps table press. Interfacing was fused with my Elna press and regular iron.

Resources:

• My PunkBroidery (vinyls)
• Wawak (interfacing, zipper tapes and pulls, double-sided tape, thread, bias tape, needles)
• Emmaline Bags (hardware)
• JoAnn Fabrics (interfacing)
• Tandy Leather (rivets, silver marking pen)

 

Originally, I wanted to make this bag in all black with rose gold hardware, but I decided on this combination because...squirrel! I really liked the reptilian vinyl and when I saw it, the vision of this bag would not leave my mind. I'll likely make the original all-black version at some point or try Oro Rosa's Erica Bowler which is comparable to Magdalena with a different shape.

This is the third bag I've made from Oro Rosa patterns (previously made Catalina and Quilted Alice).

 

(left:  Catalina; right:  Quilted Alice)

  

I am very pleased with the newest handbag; it will definitely get a lot of use!

 

More pictures of the hardware and interior:

Below, the bag is hanging on one of my dress forms for scale.

 

(top:  Simplicity 9385; skirt:  Simplicity 9375)

  

***

 

I've started the muslin for the Closet Core Kelly Anorak. I also started cutting out the pieces for another Catalina cross-body bag. Methinks the handbag is going to take priority over the anorak. =)

 

L

 

Make Nine 2023

2023 got off to a rocky start. The bruise from the IV that was in my arm has finally healed. 😔 I'm better now *fingers crossed*.

 

I finally completed my intentions for Make Nine 2023. As with previous plans, the majority of the grid consists of patterns that have been in and out of the sewing queue.  To my own surprise, four of the patterns are from (fairly) recent releases.

Two tops:  Simplicity 8791 &  Simplicity 9646

Lately, I've been drawn to shirt patterns (knit and woven) with full sleeves. So when I saw 9646, I knew I wanted to make it. I'm a wee bit on the fence about the dropped shoulder seam morphing into the full lower sleeve. We'll see how it goes.

Simplicity 8791 is a classic and I've wanted to make it for a while now. I think I'll do view C (modeled), though I do like view B (red) with the double peplum. 

Two skirts:  Simplicity 8609 & Simplicity 9377

Honestly, I don't remember why I added 8609. I think I saw something on Instgram some time ago that sparked an interest in this type of pleated skirt. Eh...I don't know if this one will remain on the grid.

I do like 9377. I have some linen that I think will go nicely with this pattern. I'll likely do a test version first to see how all those buttons are going to work.

Two dresses:  McCall's 8030 & McCall's 8286

 

When 8030 was first released, I didn't think much of it. When people started sharing their versions, the pattern grew on me. I really like the play on stripes and intend to do the same with my version. If I have enough fabric, think I'll make view A with the sleeve cuffs and belt.

8286 - a wrapped shirt dress with collar and curved hem? Um...YES please! I like this so much I bought two copies in anticipation of making multiple versions. I hope this pattern delivers!

Oro Rosa Magdalena 

 

image source (not an affiliate link)

 

As with all of my Make Nine plans, I include a handbag. I really, really like making handbags and have been acquiring fabric and hardware to keep going. I like the challenge of coordinating fabric, vinyl/leather, and hardware as well as putting all the pieces together. 

Magdalena was part of my Make Nine 2022 grid, but I changed it for Oro Rosa's Catalina bag that had just been released. I really like Alexis' patterns because the styles are unique (to me at least) and her instructions are very clear and comprehensive.

Closet Core Kelly Anorak

Every time I see this pop up on the internets, I get excited all over again. I love the details of the jacket and it looks like it would be interesting to make. I'll definitely make a muslin to test the fit. Hopefully, I'll have this done in time for Spring.

Deep stash

I have a lot of fabric (we are not going to talk numbers 😅). Some pieces date back 15 years and it's doing no good aging in my basement. My partner once said that the fun for me was in buying fabric and not using it. Ouch. He's not wrong, but homie didn't have to call me out like that. =) Anyway, a stash reduction is in order and the best way to achieve this is by sewing, selling, and/or donating.

That's it for the plan for now. Though these are the patterns I've chosen, I am not wedded to anything on the grid. My Make Nine is flexible and subject to what I feel like sewing.

L

Make Nine 2022 Update

We're halfway through the year and my Make Nine is surprisingly (for me) going pretty well. I've managed to complete and/or work on 8 of 9 items. One of those items was muslined a few years ago, so maybe that shouldn't count. I re-read the instructions for the pattern so that's something, right?

Top Row

• New Look 6560:  I finished this a couple of months ago (mentioned briefly here). I really like the top, but definitely could have used an FBA. I'll definitely need to wear a camisole underneath and add a snap to keep the front from gaping.

• New Look 6968:  I really wanted to like this top after I saw some versions on IG and YouTube. The issue here is that it's just too big. I got lazy with not wanting to do an FBA (knowing full well that I need it) and cut a size 18 all around. The neckline/shoulder area is just too big for my frame and it shows. You can see the size of the neck opening on my dressform.
  

 

Each pattern size is printed separately, so there was no easy way to blend sizes. I'm sure I could have figured something out, but I chose haste over proper fit. Meh. I'll wear it a few times and probably let it go.

• Simplicity 8948:  This pattern has been in and out of rotation many times and I've finally taken time to work on it. I cut size 14 everywhere and made a 1-inch FBA, rotating the dart to the shoulder pleats. I also added a 1/2-inch broad back adjustment. I worked through a second muslin with the changes and don't think it looks that good. It's too tight across the back and something is wonky with the neckline pleats. So this pattern is a fail for now. I need to protect my fragile sewing mojo and working more on this is not a good idea. =)
  

Middle Row

• wild card (fabric purchased abroad): I bought a cut of bouclé from Eurokangas whilst in Finland in 2019. It has the most wonderful colors, but is also hard to match with other fabrics. Weird. This purple wool knit is the best I could find for now.
  

The skirt pattern is Burda 2-2020-108. I cut a size 42 and added one-inch side seam allowances (ended up not needing the extra room). I also cut two inches off the overall length because the skirt was too long for my height. The skirt is lined with rayon Bemberg and the waist is faced with 1.5"-wide petersham.

• Oro Rosa Catalina cross-body bag:  This was a replacement for the Oro Rosa Magdalena circle bag. I love this bag so much - even with all of its flaws. More thoughts on this bag and pattern are here.
  

• Ottobre 5-2011-11:  This is the pattern that was muslined some time ago. Like with New Look 6698, I tried avoiding an FBA by cutting a larger size. Given that this is a coat, having the extra room isn't a bad thing, though there are some areas (sleeves, side and center back) that can be taken in. I think I'll do a second muslin with a smaller size and an FBA.

Bottom row

• McCall's 7627:  This is the only pattern on this grid I've yet to tackle. I made view B  from this pattern in 2018 and wear it regularly. I'd like to make either view C or D, but after reading my old review, I'm not sure I want to fool the wrap-tie area again. I have to look at the instructions. If it looks like the same hassle, I will replace this pattern with something else.

• Simplicity 8014:  Welp, I've tried this version twice...no...three times and it's no for me.

I cut a size 16 and made a 1-inch FBA, converted to shoulder princess seams. Still, the bust is a bit tight and I'm over it. I think the fault here is in the fabric. It's a medium-weight chambray with no give and just not suitable for this design. I've already put this in the donation pile. Maybe someone can wear it as a duster.

• Vogue 9299, view B: I LOVE THIS TUNIC. OMG. Listen. I do not know what took me so long to make this. Well, that's not true. 😅 I was lazy with making the FBA. I've got it in my mind to just take the time and make the adjustment because I know I need it.

I traced a 14 in the neckline, shoulder, and upper armscye - transitioning to 16 in the lower armscye and everywhere else. I also made these adjustments:

• 5/8" FBA, converted to shoulder princess seams
• removed 1/2-inch in length between shoulder and bust (on front and back)
• removed 1/2-inch across the sleeve cap to match the last adjustment

I'm almost finished with a second version of this tunic. I'll write a second blog post about both versions when I've finished the second. Suffice it to say, I will be making many more tops/dresses from this pattern!

That's all for the update. I'm happy to have completed 2/3 of the grid so far. Ideally, I'd like to finish the pea coat before it gets too cold to wear it.

 

I'll probably switch gears to sewing for the upcoming PR Mini Wardrobe contest. The rules haven't been posted, but I'm sure there will at least be some combination of tops, bottoms, and perhaps a topper. I'm working on muslins of intended garments and will share some details soon.

(I don't know what's going on with the font formatting. Blogger can be finicky. Apologies if the text sizes are off.)

L

 

Make Nine 2022

I finally settled on some patterns for Make Nine 2022. It took me a while because on some subconscious level, I think I was apprehensive to create a plan for fear of life falling apart again after posting it. Plus there wasn't a pattern or project that was really drawing me in.

After thinking about it for some time and perusing social media and the internet for inspiration, I picked these patterns. All of them (except the handbag) have been in and out of the sewing queue and three have been attempted/muslined. 

Three tops:  New Look 6560, New Look 6698, and Simplicity 8948

 

 

There are so many great versions of of these patterns. I like the versatility and options of NL 6560. I bought a small cut of Ankara fabric specifically for this pattern.

 

I bought NL 6698 for the sleeves, though I don't know if this is a good style for my body type. 

 

Simplicity 8948 is classic and I love the cummerbund for waist-shaping. I have lots of rayon challis in mind for this, so hopefully the fit checks out.

Three dresses:  McCall's 7627, Simplicity 8014, Vogue 9299

 

McCall's 7627

 

I made view B (shirt with dramatic sleeves) a few years ago and still wear it. That same year, I saw view C (dress with cap sleeves) at a fabric store made in the most beautiful floral cotton sateen. I bought some of the fabric with the intention of making the dress that year, but...well...you know how it goes. 😬 Given that the bodice is already prepped, I think this can be a relatively simple and quick sew.

 

Simplicity 8014

 

This is holdover from Make Nine 2021. I tried sewing view D (modeled version) before, but it didn't work out (bad fabric and naughty big honkin' dart). I dug out the pattern pieces for this view and noticed that I converted the front darts to shoulder princess seams. I probably stopped working on it because I didn't want to be disappointed with it not fitting. I'm willing to give it another try.

 

I'd also like to make view B (top row, second image). I've seen lots of versions of this dress on different bodies and they all look good.

 

Vogue 9299

There's a sewer on IG whose versions of this pattern are absolutely gorgeous. She has an eye for pattern-fabric pairing and print placement that is truly inspiring. I don't know what fabric I'll use with this pattern, but I hope to make view B (tiered sleeve bands) at least twice. 

 

Ottobre 5-2010-11

 

This pea coat has been on and off the grid twice. I have the fabric and notions and even made a muslin a couple of years ago! I know what's stopping me:  there's no back neck facing so the coat is lined to the edge. I'm not a fan of this technique - even though I've sewn jackets and coats like this multiple times. I know how to make a back neck facing, I've just been too lazy to do it. I want this coat, so I need to make a decision already!

Oro Rosa Magdalena 

 

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The one thing that is consistent with my Make Nine plans is the inclusion of a handbag. I really like making them and have given serious thought to bag-making. It's a huge investment that requires a lot of time, skill, and heavy-duty machinery (e.g., industrial walking foot machine). Before I go down that road, I have to see if I like it and can do it well enough.

I've sewn three different Blue Calla patterns and wanted to try other designers. I happened upon Oro Rosa patterns on Instagram and bought the Magdalena. I like small purses and think this would be a nice addition to my wardrobe.

 

Fabric purchased abroad

 

Any time I travel internationally, I try to get at least one cut of fabric to remind me of my visit. I've got fabric from the UK dating as far back as 2008. Uh...yeah. I should probably sew that up.

 

That's all for now. I'm working on a wool tweed jacket (Simplicity 2810) because of course this is the type of project to get the sewjo flowing again (read:  it's totally not). 😏

 

L