Goings On

Long time, no post.  The start of the school semester is always busy.  Plus, I'm also having a hard time and the stress is taking its toll on me.  Sewing happens.  Blogging, not so much.

I managed to finish three of the four items from my "upcoming sewing plans" list.  The fourth item is in progress.  Win!

McCall's 6654 (knit skirt) & Simplicity 1072 (knit top)
 

For the top, I cut a straight 16 and shortened the sleeves two inches.  I didn't do any other adjustments and the fit is okay.  The top is rather boxy, so I nipped it in at the waistline at around 0.75 inches, tapering to nothing at the armhole and hip to give more shape. 

The good

Sewing sequins wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be.  Both my sewing machine and serger handled the fabric well.  I used a 70/10 microtex needle in the machine, regular needles in the serger, and sewed slowly.

Since the sequin knit was sheer and scratchy, I underlined it with black jet set (from Joann Fabrics).  Once the two fabrics were hand-basted, I treated the whole unit as one during construction.

The pattern calls for the neckband to be made of the body fabric.  Since I used ponte, there was no way the neckband was going to have enough stretch and recovery to sit flat/flush against my neck.  So I used black cotton rib knit for the neckband, hem band, and sleeve cuffs.  I cut the ribbing 80% of the neckline circumference, without seam allowances and stretched to fit.  I've done this before on previous necklines and found that it works well. 

The bad

In some serged areas, the sequins poke out from behind the knit lining and cause awful chafing.  I need to think of a way to bind this area to prevent the irritation.  Otherwise, I could never wear this top without a turtleneck. 

The meh

I added sleeve cuffs, but I don't think they're wide enough.  Eventually, I will cut off the cuffs and make new ones that are wider to balance with the hem band.  But for now, meh.

***

The skirt was a an easy and quick sew.  The only thing different with this version is the length.  It is about two inches longer than the others and I am not quite sure why.  I used the exact same pattern pieces.  Hmm...

McCall's 6884 (knit dress)

Originally, I was going to make NL6301.  After making an FBA and a bunch of other pattern adjustments, I chickened out because I wasn't confident in how I redrew the pleats.  Instead, I opted for the simplicity of M6884.

I cut size 16 and did not make an FBA.  I shortened the sleeves 2 inches and made a 2.5-inch hem.  Next time, I'll hem at 1 or 1.5 inches as I think the dress is a tad bit short.  I will also try binding the neckline edge instead of turning under and coverstitching.

I added six inches total to the ties, but they're still not long enough.  On the next version, I will add twelve inches and attach them a bit higher.  The placement dots are too low and cause weird pulling if I pull the ties from back to front.

Burda 7942
I was going to make Simplicity 2599 out of a non-stretch cotton shirting.

But, I wasn't too confident about how the stripes would look on the ruffles and I didn't have enough fabric to cut the ruffles on the bias.  Plus, this fabric leans more blue than grey and didn't quite go with the other fabrics in this mini wardrobe.

So instead I decided to make the Burda pattern, view A.

So far the fit is pretty good.  I cut size 44 and made a 0.5-inch FBA.  I am finally learning my Burda bodice size and am excited to try the MANY other Burda patterns I have.  

There is still lots of work to be done.  I need to sew the side seams (they're pinned in this phot0), attach the continuous lap/cuffs, set the sleeves, hem, and work the buttonholes.  When any of that will actually happen...well...uh...

***

New Plans

Every once in a while, I get the urge to sew small mini wardrobes.  For some reason, I am feeling the need to coordinate more.  Next up is a small five or six-piece set comprising of blues and reds.   

I've already cut another version of New Look 6274 out of this stretch cotton border print.
 

Eventually, I'll add a few more garments from these fabrics:

 left:  blue floral stretch cotton poplin (skirt)

top (on shelf): navy blue wool suiting (vest)

middle (on shelf): ITY knit (infinity scarf)

bottom (on shelf):  navy/white ponte knit (skirt)

lower shelf:  ITY knit (wrap dress)

Big dreams.  Hah!  That's all for now.  I hope things settle down more, though I am not optimistic. =/

Until next time, peace.

L  

August Round Up

Mic check.  Is this thing on?

Some sewing...no blogging...blah blah blah.  Y'all know the story. =)   

I was actually quite productive in August - having sewn five, YES FIVE, garments.  Wut!  Since I'm way behind on blogging, I'll just give the highlights of each piece.

Burda 6769 (skirt)

Taking a cue from Nakisha's version, I cut a 16 front, 18 back, and did not make a full seat adjustment Because my denim is fairly stretchy, I probably could have gotten away with a straight 16.  Sewing was straightforward - until it was time to sew the back vent.  Burda ranks supreme on word salads and the diagram didn't help much because the pattern piece doesn't clearly define what is meant by the 'right side' line.  I just winged it; I think it looks okay.

 Pardon the wrinkles.  I washed the skirt, but didn't iron it.

If I make the skirt again, I'll make a horizontal tuck of about an inch to shorten the front crotch area.  I've noticed that Burda bottoms are always too long in this area for me.

Here is a not-too-clear-or-particularly-helpful picture of me wearing the skirt on a boat.  The angled side seam is kind of weird, but I love the pegged hem.  The skirt is comfortable, but there is definitely room for improvement in fit.

New Look 6648 (knit top)

I've made this top more times than I can count.  I cut my usual size 16 and added an inch to the front and back neckline.  As drafted, the neckline is really wide, so adding the extra height helps to close it up a bit.

Kwik 3693 (knit cardigan)

This cardigan is part of my first group of patterns for fall sewing.  I find that if I want to "sew with a plan," I work best when I focus on no more than five or six pieces.  After that, I get bored with the colors and need to find something new.

I traced a medium in the shoulders/neckline and a large everywhere else.  I shortened the sleeves ## inches.  I did not make a muslin.  I probably should have shortened it all around as the length on the dress form looks longer than that on the model.  I'll probably always wear it belted.

Simplicity 1321 (skirt)

This is one of two skirts for my fall sewing plan.  I've had this pattern in the stash for a while and decided to sew it when I saw this pattern review.  Her outfit is simple, yet very stylish. While I didn't make mine in a colorful wool, I definitely plan to do so later.

I cut a straight size 16 and made a 1" full seat adjustment.  The skirt was too tight, so I sewed 3/8" seam allowances on all seams - except seam containing the invisible zipper.  I had already installed it before realizing that the skirt was too small.

I finished the waist with petersham and lined with black Ambiance Bemberg as usual.

The fabric is a lightweight bouclé and is hanging weirdly here.  It didn't look as bad when I tried it on.

I haven't decided on what buttons to use.  I'll probably use the one on the one on the left for the sheer fact that I have exactly two of these in the stash.  I have three of the one on the right and would feel weird with having one random button left. 

Ugh those seams!  I swear I pressed them.  Must be the polyester.

New Look 6053 (skirt)

The second skirt is a new favorite.  This pattern is super simple with only two pattern pieces (four if you include the facings). 

Again this is a straight size 16 with 1" full seat adjustment.  I didn't include the facings,  finished the waist with petersham, and inserted a lining.  The fabric is also polyester bouclé.

I have a love-to-hate relationship with polyester.  It can be terribly hot and sticky and pill horribly, but it's washable.  As I usually am covered in chalk by the end of the day, I need more clothes that I can toss in the washer.  

Upcoming Sewing Plans 

To finish up this mini wardrobe plan, I hope to make these:

 Simplicity 1072 (knit top with sequined front panel)

 Simplicity 2599 (sleeveless tank with three-tiered ruffled front)

 McCall's 6654 (double knit skirt)

 New Look 6301 (knit dress)

Because I know I can put off things that are challenging, I started working on the knit sequined top first.  I have never sewn with sequined fabric before and was intimidated by all the prep work.  Most info I found on sewing sequined fabric suggested removing the sequins from the seam allowance first and sewing as normal.

Yeah.  Well.

There are 5,974,842 sequins less than 1/8" in diameter in the seam allowance.  I tried to pick out some sequins on a scrap piece of fabric and nearly lost my mind.  I took the same scrap to my sewing machine and sewed very slowly using the sharpest needle I had, a straight stitch, and then a small zigzag stitch.  And you know what?  It worked.  I didn't break any needles and no sequins came flying out from under the presser foot.

Picking all those sequins?  So not happening. 

If I work really hard (read:  at all), I can finish the top today and post pictures tomorrow.  t's also the last weekend of freedom before...dun dun dun...school starts.  So I might chillax and watch Netflix.  =)

Until next time, peace!

L