New Look 6644: When Wrong is Right

I checked off another pattern from the "want to sew" list:  New Look 6644. I don't remember when it was released, but I do remember really wanting to make both the top and cargo pants. I made a muslin of the cargo pants, but got distracted and never followed up with making adjustments.

Despite wanting to make the top, I was intimidated by the v-neckband construction. Sometimes the smallest details stop me in my tracks. I got interested in it again after recently viewing a sewing YouTube video of someone making the top. It didn't seem that hard at all, so I pulled out some fabric and got to work.

 

 

I also figured if I struggled with sewing the v-neckband, then it's okay because I wasn't too happy with the fabric. More on that in a bit. First the short details:

Fabric & Notions:

• 1.5 yards rayon/poly/lycra heathered brushed sweater knit (2022)
• strips of SewkeysE 1/2" knit stay tape 
• regular sewing and serger thread
• 80/12 stretch needle

Size and Adjustments:  I cut a straight size 16 and added 2 inches to the bottom (front and back) as a cheater FBA. The top looks a little short on the model, so I didn't mind the extra length overall. The fabric has a lot of vertical movement and makes the top hang weirdly. I'll see how it wears and decide then if the extra 2 inches was necessary all around.

 

Construction Notes:  I fused knit stay tape to the shoulder seams and around the front neckline. My first attempt at making the top using this fabric was a mess because I think the neckline stretched out. The knit wasn't particularly stable so that didn't help.

 

Determined to not give up, I cut a new front and back and stabilized the area first. 

 

The rest of the construction was very straightforward. I attached the neckband with my sewing machine and finished the edges and all other seams on my serger.

 

I didn't get the neckband seam aligned properly with the V, but that's okay. I'll work on it and do better next time.

 

 

When Wrong is Right:  When I first bought this fabric, I was disappointed with the texture because what I originally thought was the right side turned out to be the wrong side. The public side is very fuzzy and looks like it already pilling.

 

 

Yeah, no. Not a fan.

I really tried to overlook it, but eventually I just couldn't; I knew I wasn't going to be happy with it. Plus I had a few cuts of this fabric in different colors, so I wanted to find a way to like it - before giving it away.

The wrong side of the fabric has a completely different texture. It's still soft, but has no fuzz. Like I said, initially I thought it was the public side. So you know what? I used the wrong side as the right side and I like it so much better. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the two:

left:  original public side (fuzzy)

right:  original wrong side (not fuzzy)

 

Another comparison:

 

 

The wrong side is darker, but I don't mind. I'd rather have that than the potential messiness of pilling.

 

An upside to swapping right with wrong sides is the fuzzy side is close to my skin which should make this comfortable to wear in cooler weather. I may come to regret this if it makes me sweat too much.

 

Conclusion:  I like the pattern and am no longer afraid of sewing the v-neck. I think the pattern might work better in a less fragile knit, so I'll search the stash and try it again sometime. In the meantime, this top will be worked into the fall rotation.

This is the...hmm...fourth top I've made for my fall nautical wardrobe. I have two more tops to make then I need to start working on bottoms. I'll share progress pics in the next post...I hope.

Thanks for reading!

L

 

 

 

 

Finished: Burda 5-2006-119

This is the second of two shirtdress patterns that I tried recently in an effort to recover from the disappointment of Simplicity 8014.

 

 

Although this style of dress isn't the same as Simplicity 8014, it does have some similar features:  front-back yoke with forward shoulder seam and short sleeves with turn-up cuff. Bust shaping on the Simplicity pattern is done through darts and pleats whilst the Burda pattern has front shoulder princess seams and a center back seam. In this pattern, the front band is cut on and there is no waist seam.

 

I made view 119 with the shorter length of view 120 and without any pockets or the front self-fabric strap things.

 

 

Unless you look carefully at the photo, it's not immediately clear that there are separate pieces to cover the princess seam. I certainly didn't realize it until I reviewed the cutting diagram and read the instructions. Small sections are sewn to create the belt loops and in-seam pocket facings...or something (Burda instructions are famously terse). It's a neat design and I think it looks good on the modeled version. I didn't have the patience to put up with what I thought would be annoying to sew, so I didn't include it.

Fabric & Notions:

• 3 yards of stretch cotton sateen (Mood...y'all I need an intervention.)
• 9 x 5/8" metal shank buttons 
• shirt crisp light fusible interfacing (Fashion Sewing Supply)
• 1.5" gold metal belt buckle (Tandy Leather) 
• 4 x 4mm gold grommets
• strip of black vinyl fabric for belt 
  
• 80/12 universal needle
• regular sewing and serger thread
• scraps of tear-away stabilizer for sewing buttonholes
  

Sizing & Alterations:  I took flat pattern measurements of size 44 and compared them to my beloved TNT Burda shirt pattern.

 

 

It's an inch bigger across the bust, but that's alright. I cut right into the fabric and sewed 5/8" seam allowances. I didn't add a hem allowance and shortened the length 1 inch. For the hem, I folded and pressed 1 inch twice and topstitched.

General Construction Notes:  The fabric is a lovely stretch cotton sateen from Mood (link). Mood runs sales often, so it helps with the cost. The dark blue is not as dark as in the image, but still a nice rich color.

 

All seams were sewn on my machine, serged together, pressed to one side, and topstitched. I cut two yoke pieces and used the Burrito Method for a clean inside finish.

I wanted to look of the sleeves from Simplicity 8014 so I lengthened this sleeve pattern by 2 inches so that I could sew the folded tuck. I don't have a good photo of the sleeve.

The pattern has a self-fabric belt, but I wanted something more substantial. I'd been eyeing Anita by Design's self-fabric belt tutorial on YouTube for a while and decided to give it a try. In the video, she explains her process of making a belt with grommets and a vinyl backing. The steps can easily be customized to include the belt length and buckle width of your choice.

 

As this is my first one, there are some errors, but I think it still looks pretty good.

 

My belt is a bit too long and could use another grommet - easy fixes for next time. I need to add belt loops to the dress and/or a loop in which to slide the end of the belt. As it is, it isn't secure.

Conclusion:  This is a good pattern and I can see making many more versions. I have a third pattern with more skirt flare to try next.

Other thoughts:  I wore the Simplicity 8014 dress yesterday and...well...let's just say I got one wear out of it this year. Although I really like how it looked, I didn't like how the waist area fit or constantly having to fiddle with it. 

This dress kicked off a mini nautical-themed wardrobe I am sewing for fall. The colors are white, yellow/gold, blue, and red. So far, I've sewn four total items (dress and three shirts) and have cut out two more shirts. I intend to make a couple of skirts, vest, and some pants to go along with all the tops. More on that soon!

L