Kwik Sew 2960 (pants)

 (photo credit:  Patternreview.com)

Last summer, the lovely SarahLiz embarked on a pants fitting journey that I followed with great interest.  She used several patterns, ultimately fitting Kwik Sew 2960 perfectly.  In following her progress, I was reminded of my first attempt at fitting this pattern which ultimately ended in me throwing the muslin in the magic closet.

When it comes to jeans, I don't mind a few wrinkles because I think some are necessary to sit comfortably.  But this pattern was designed for stretch wovens and, in theory, shouldn't have many wrinkles.  Right?

I returned to this pattern again in September with a wrinkles-be-damned-I-need-pants attitude.  I made three pairs, each varying wildly in fit and satisfaction.

When sewing the first pair, I noticed that the pants legs were WAY wide - wider than in the muslin.  So I nipped the front and back pieces in near the knee by an inch on both sides.

Doing this gave a much closer fit and a nice flare at the hem.  What can I say, I love flared pants!

Version 1 (stretch poly woven):  fail

I have no pictures of this pair because I already donated them.  Somehow, front and back side seams were off by a full inch and I had to stretch the pieces to fit.  This caused unsightly puckers at the hip that could not be removed no matter how much I pressed.

Version 2 (rayon poly lycra woven):  semi-fail

After fixing the side seam issue, this pair sewed much more smoothly.  However, not all rayon-poly-lycras are the same.  This pair stretched horribly!  I could take the pants off without unbuttoning/unzipping.  I cut the waistband on the cross grain and used a stretch interfacing - which only added to the problem.  Plus after only one wear, the fabric started to pill.  These are going in the donation pile or trash; I have no desire to try to fix them.

I bought five yards of this fabric and still have three left.  Unless I find something else to do with the fabric, methinks this is getting donated as well.

Version 3 (rayon poly lycra woven):  success

Either I'm a glutton for punishment or I refuse to be outdone by a piece of fabric.  In any event, I gave the RPL another try.  This time, I used a 2-yard piece left over from this Jalie jacket.  This pair was a total success (although the jacket is in the donation pile).

The weight of the fabric is pretty much the same as version 2, however I think this has more rayon than polyester.  The stretch is perfect and after two wearings and a wash, there is no pilling.  I cut the waistband on the straight grain and used a non-stretch interfacing.  The waistband is a little snug, but I MUST unzip and unbutton to take them off!  I am definitely going to make more.

I'm still working on my fall sewing plans.  The color scheme is grey, green, purple, and white/off white.  I finally started sewing again and am almost finished with a simple tank top.  I intend to start working on another version of New Look 6407 (pictured above).

***

Thank you so much for offering words of support.  I'm doing better and simply trying to take one day at a time.  I did a major bike ride yesterday and that lifted my spirits - while also making me extremely sore!  More details on that tomorrow.

Until next time, peace!

L

Kwik Sew 3558 (jacket): Complete

When I don't know what to sew, apparently I sew jeans and jackets.  I liked my first version of KS 3558 so much, I knew I would make it again eventually.

Sewing this jacket was pretty quick.  I didn't bother to bind the facing and hem edges as I did on the first.  

Denim is my comfort food for fabric.  There's no question about right/wrong sides, presses very nicely, and is just easy to sew.  What's not to love? =)

Due to fluctuations in my weight, I added 3/8" to the front vertical seams for extra width.  I could probably take the upper shoulder and waist in a bit.

I started to doubt whether including the back pleats was a good idea.  Trunk junk and pleats are normally never a good mix.  It looks like a little shelf back there.  

Pressing the pleats definitely helped; wearing it for a full day will tell the true tale.  The above picture shows how it rests on my backside.  Yeah.  Methinks this will be the one and only pleated peplum version. =)

I added sleeve heads for cap support and taped the lapel roll line.  I forgot to take pictures of the roll line, though.

I contemplated topstitching the pleats.  By the time I thought this was a good idea, I had already completed the back and I wasn't going to pick all of that apart.

I can see this little jacket paired with quite a few skirts I already own.  I might make this pattern one more time before retiring it for a while.  I'd like a long-sleeved version for fall.

I'll get pictures of me wearing the jacket soon.  

Up next:  I'm working on four projects at the moment:  New Look 6472 (two skirts) and Simplicity 2614 (tie-neck tops).  I'll probably finish the skirts first - despite knowing that I really need shirts.  

Until next time, peace!

L

Kwik Sew 2895 (jean-style jacket)

I make a lot of muslins.  A lot.  I don't want to cut into my 'good' fabric until I'm satisfied with the fit.  I once made a total of nine muslins (4 of one pattern, 5 of another) for a cocktail dress.  The ninth muslin was the one that worked and I used it to produce a lovely dress for which I still get compliments when worn.  I never blogged about it; perhaps I should.

That said, I do know when to quit.  You win, Simplicity 2443.  Your very short boxy design and weird waist flare are the ghostbuster to my Stay-Puft marshmallow man.  (Guess what I watched recently for the umpteenth time...) I tried to make it work, but it wasn't to be.  It's such a cute pattern too, but I am done foolin' with it.

Enter Kwik Sew 2895.

Fabric & Notions:

• 1 3/4 yards of dark blue non-stretch denim
• fusible interfacing
• six gold metal buttons

Machine Setup:

• first machine:  80/12 universal needle and regular thread
• second machine:  100/16 jeans needle and topstitching thread
• serger:  regular serger thread

Sizing/Alterations:  I traced a size medium based on the finished bust measurement of 44".  I compared the pattern pieces to that of one of my favorite jackets, Kwik Sew 3558, and was satisfied with what I saw.  The width at bust level seemed okay.  Notice I said "seemed okay."

The hazard of using finished measurement numbers is that the number is based on how the pattern's standard block measures around the body.  In theory, 44" should be enough room to go around my body since my full bust is 41".  But this circumference isn't divided equally.  At bust level from side to side, I measure roughly 15" on the back and 26" on the front.  This pattern measures 20" across the back and 24" across the front.  This is why most patterns are ginormous across the back and tight on the front.  I don't carry my fullness equally and I doubt many women do.

That said, I didn't decrease the back width because I intend to wear the jacket over blouses/tops and don't want movement to be restricted.  

The only alteration involved adding 1/2" to the center panel seam that is joined with the front/button panel.  The panels beneath the yoke are curved to accommodate the bust.  One seam curved too far away from CF so adding the extra 1/2" helped bring it closer to center.  I couldn't figure out how to do a slight FBA and settled on this quick fix instead. 

I didn't do a swayback adjustment, but probably should have.

The only thing I don't like is the pooling of fabric near the armhole in the upper bust area.

See what I'm talking about?  I searched the net and found that many jean-style jackets fit like this.  I don't like it, but at least my version is as good as RTW.

Note:  The pattern is freakishly SHORT!  I wanted to make view B (blue jacket in pattern photo) with the waistband.  But, view B is about 4 inches shorter than view A.  I suppose the pattern photo isn't quite misleading, but I don't think it's not telling the whole truth.  View A ends below the waistband as shown.  But if you wear low-rise jeans, view A will definitely end above the waistband.  Check the length before cutting into your fashion fabric!

Construction:  Sewing the jacket didn't take long and was kind of fun.  It took me about two and half days to complete, but can probably be sewn in a day if there are no interruptions.  

Others who've made this pattern state that the front self-facing isn't long enough.  I agree.  The end of the facing stops very short of the shoulder seam and makes for an unattractive finish.  Fortunately, it can't be seen from the outside.  When I make this pattern again, I'll do what others did and extend the facing.

When topstitching the front, I used dark blue thread in the bobbin so that it didn't show through on the wrong side. Usually I use the same color for both the bobbin and needle, but I didn't like how it looked since I intend to wear the jacket unbuttoned.  I also did the same for the buttonholes.

I omitted the pocket bags on the front because I don't use chest pockets.  Some say that busty chicks shouldn't wear pocket flaps on the front.  I don't think the addition of these flaps draws any significant attention to that area.  The flaps are above the bust, so I'm not getting the dreaded "headlight effect" either.


Conclusion:  This pattern is a winner.  It's got all of the elements of a traditional jeans-style jacket with great fit.  The flare at the waist isn't dramatic and I can button it if I want to, though that is not likely to happen.

Up next:  I have no idea.  I made three muslins (hah) of button-front shirts and am discouraged from going forward.  My weight has changed a lot and I'm not satisfied with the fit.  Soooooo...yeah...I'm working on getting in better shape.  In the meantime, I don't know what to sew.  Maybe I'll make another jacket.

Until next time, peace!

L

Jean-style Jackets and Fit

How are jean-style jackets supposed to fit?  

I'm working on Simplicity 2443 and am wondering if I'm actually doing more work than necessary.  In perusing the 80+ reviews of this pattern, I noticed that almost all of them pull apart near the bottom - no matter the shape or figure of the person wearing the jacket.

I thought my first muslin didn't fit because the centers front didn't meet.  After looking at some of these pictures, I'm having second thoughts.  Even the model's garment pulls apart. 

I searched jean-style jackets on the net and see the same thing.

So how are these jackets supposed to fit?  Any thoughts?

L