I make a lot of muslins. A lot. I don't want to cut into my 'good' fabric until I'm satisfied with the fit. I once made a total of nine muslins (4 of one pattern, 5 of another) for a cocktail dress. The ninth muslin was the one that worked and I used it to produce a lovely dress for which I still get compliments when worn. I never blogged about it; perhaps I should.
That said, I do know when to quit. You win, Simplicity 2443. Your very short boxy design and weird waist flare are the ghostbuster to my Stay-Puft marshmallow man. (Guess what I watched recently for the umpteenth time...) I tried to make it work, but it wasn't to be. It's such a cute pattern too, but I am done foolin' with it.
Enter Kwik Sew 2895.
Fabric & Notions:
Enter Kwik Sew 2895.
Fabric & Notions:
- 1 3/4 yards of dark blue non-stretch denim
- fusible interfacing
- six gold metal buttons
- first machine: 80/12 universal needle and regular thread
- second machine: 100/16 jeans needle and topstitching thread
- serger: regular serger thread
The hazard of using finished measurement numbers is that the number is based on how the pattern's standard block measures around the body. In theory, 44" should be enough room to go around my body since my full bust is 41". But this circumference isn't divided equally. At bust level from side to side, I measure roughly 15" on the back and 26" on the front. This pattern measures 20" across the back and 24" across the front. This is why most patterns are ginormous across the back and tight on the front. I don't carry my fullness equally and I doubt many women do.
That said, I didn't decrease the back width because I intend to wear the jacket over blouses/tops and don't want movement to be restricted.
The only alteration involved adding 1/2" to the center panel seam that is joined with the front/button panel. The panels beneath the yoke are curved to accommodate the bust. One seam curved too far away from CF so adding the extra 1/2" helped bring it closer to center. I couldn't figure out how to do a slight FBA and settled on this quick fix instead.
I didn't do a swayback adjustment, but probably should have.
The only thing I don't like is the pooling of fabric near the armhole in the upper bust area.
See what I'm talking about? I searched the net and found that many jean-style jackets fit like this. I don't like it, but at least my version is as good as RTW.
Note: The pattern is freakishly SHORT! I wanted to make view B (blue jacket in pattern photo) with the waistband. But, view B is about 4 inches shorter than view A. I suppose the pattern photo isn't quite misleading, but I don't think it's not telling the whole truth. View A ends below the waistband as shown. But if you wear low-rise jeans, view A will definitely end above the waistband. Check the length before cutting into your fashion fabric!
Construction: Sewing the jacket didn't take long and was kind of fun. It took me about two and half days to complete, but can probably be sewn in a day if there are no interruptions.
Others who've made this pattern state that the front self-facing isn't long enough. I agree. The end of the facing stops very short of the shoulder seam and makes for an unattractive finish. Fortunately, it can't be seen from the outside. When I make this pattern again, I'll do what others did and extend the facing.
Note: The pattern is freakishly SHORT! I wanted to make view B (blue jacket in pattern photo) with the waistband. But, view B is about 4 inches shorter than view A. I suppose the pattern photo isn't quite misleading, but I don't think it's not telling the whole truth. View A ends below the waistband as shown. But if you wear low-rise jeans, view A will definitely end above the waistband. Check the length before cutting into your fashion fabric!
Construction: Sewing the jacket didn't take long and was kind of fun. It took me about two and half days to complete, but can probably be sewn in a day if there are no interruptions.
Others who've made this pattern state that the front self-facing isn't long enough. I agree. The end of the facing stops very short of the shoulder seam and makes for an unattractive finish. Fortunately, it can't be seen from the outside. When I make this pattern again, I'll do what others did and extend the facing.
When topstitching the front, I used dark blue thread in the bobbin so that it didn't show through on the wrong side. Usually I use the same color for both the bobbin and needle, but I didn't like how it looked since I intend to wear the jacket unbuttoned. I also did the same for the buttonholes.
I omitted the pocket bags on the front because I don't use chest pockets. Some say that busty chicks shouldn't wear pocket flaps on the front. I don't think the addition of these flaps draws any significant attention to that area. The flaps are above the bust, so I'm not getting the dreaded "headlight effect" either.
Conclusion: This pattern is a winner. It's got all of the elements of a traditional jeans-style jacket with great fit. The flare at the waist isn't dramatic and I can button it if I want to, though that is not likely to happen.
Up next: I have no idea. I made three muslins (hah) of button-front shirts and am discouraged from going forward. My weight has changed a lot and I'm not satisfied with the fit. Soooooo...yeah...I'm working on getting in better shape. In the meantime, I don't know what to sew. Maybe I'll make another jacket.
Until next time, peace!
L
