Indygo Junction 740: Lining Pieces

The pattern doesn't include a lining, but I want to add so that the coat goes over my clothes smoothly.  I'm still trying to decide if I want to use the Kasha flannel-backed satin lining or something else.  My fabric is not only thick, but heavy and adding the Kasha lining will make it even heavier.

In the meantime, I decided to follow the instructions on Tilly's blog (Tilly and the Buttons) to make the lining pieces.  Tasia from Sewaholic wrote a tutorial on how to turn regular pattern pieces into lining pieces.  For skirts, I normally just cut out the same pieces in lining fabric and proceed.  But for jackets/coats, Tasia suggests small adjustments to make the lining fit more properly within the garment.  She explains how to do this in great detail here:  Sewaholic tutorial:  Drafting a jacket lining.  Here are the adjustments I made to each piece.

Side Front:  I added 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point, tapering to nothing away from the point.

Front:  Since my pattern has shoulder princess seams, to follow Tasia's tutorial I pinned the side front and center front together at the seam allowance.

Then I placed the facing piece on top of the front coat piece and proceeded with the instructions.  I used the grainline on the side front to establish one of the front lining piece.

side front and front lining pattern pieces

Side Back:  I added 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point, tapering to nothing away from the point.

Back:  After correcting the back facing (discussed in a previous post), I traced the facing on the back and added two seam allowances as suggested by Tasia.  I also added a 5/8" seam allowance along the center back and a 1" ease pleat. 

Sleeve:  The additions here are the same as on the side front and side back.  Add 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point. 

Lower and Sleeve Bands:  The only thing I did was remove a hem allowance of 1.25" from the bottom.

I've begun assembly and will post in-progress shots and a quick update soon.  Initially, I was going to hand-tailor the coat with hair canvas, padstitching, etc.  But I decided to save all of that work for two other coats that I want to make before December/January. 

Previous posts on this project:

Sizing & Alterations

Pattern Errors

Altering the Upper Collar

L

Gracious Giveaway from Down Under

I don't enter many blog giveaways and have only held one of my own.  When BeaJay of On the Road to Sew Wear asked readers to guess which of seven statements was not true, I thought it would be fun to guess.  I didn't expect to win anything - especially since my guess was not exactly the correct answer!  BeaJay was kind enough to enter the names of those who selected the 'sort of not true' statement and mine was picked.  I was totally excited because, like I said, I hardly respond to blog giveaways and thus never win! When I came home from being out and about on Monday, I was happy to see a package from Australia in my mailbox.

I use thread snips ALL OF THE TIME!  I have one by my sewing machine, one by my serger (both machines sit on the same table) and one on my cutting table.  Despite having three snips within close proximity of each other, I can't find one when I need it.  Thank you!

Tweezers are necessary to thread my serger and coverstitch machine.  I just can't do it without them.  My tweezers have learned how to walk and regularly take short trips in and out of the sewing room.  How cute are these?

I've never seen pins like this before.  I am anxious to use them to see how they hold fabric when sewing and serging - especially when sewing knits.  I think this would be great in easing sleeve caps without the double row of ease-stitching.

There have been a couple of reviews of this pattern on PR.  I love how it looks and am happy that I have the chance to try it!  I can see this in a nice navy wool suiting. 

OMGosh!  What a tremendous help these fabric cards will be!  Now I don't have to guess how much fabric I need to make certain patterns - especially if they're out of print.  The cards give information about standard pattern sizes, body measurements, as well as how much extra fabric to purchase if your garment length/volume is mini, average, or maxi.   What a great idea!

I have fabric very close in color to both the peach and sky blue buttons in this package.  This could not have been more perfectly timed!

I don't think BeaJay knew this, but the bubble wrap is a gift in itself.  If bubble wrap ends up in my hands, it will certainly be rendered useless.  I don't buy bubble wrap just for the sake of popping it.  But if I get it in a package, I won't be reusing it.  Must.  Pop.  Bubbles.

Aww shucks BeaJay!  Thank you so much for this wonderful package of goodies.  I will put everything to good use.  Thank you!

L