McCall's 5525 (trench coat): Progress

After finally catching a break from busy times at work, I got a chance to sew this weekend.  My trench coat is coming along slowly, but surely.

Remember these pictures?

Yeah, I didn't use any of this.  Hah.  I was looking forward to working some silk magic but ended up ditching that idea in the end.  I still plan to make the navy blue trench coat, but for fall instead of now.  The red stretch cotton sateen was a world of swears waiting to happen, so back to the stash it goes.

I went traditional with a sandy-colored cotton twill with a hint of sheen on the right side.  Despite the dull color, this was the right choice of fabric.  It's not too heavy and presses nicely.

I'm sort of half-following the instructions.  I completed the back first and fiddled around with the front - filling in blanks as I needed.  For example, I made the button hole in the back yoke before attaching it to the back.  Why in the world would you want to work a buttonhole after the whole coat is constructed?  In fact, the instructions save all of the buttonholes until the end.  O_o  Who thought this was a good idea? #FailWaitingToHappen

I'm not feeling the gun flap.  I hadn't pressed it yet in this picture, but have since then.  I'll give it another day on the dress form before deciding to keep or ditch it.  I don't know why it's puckering like this.  Maybe I needed to adjust the flap for the FBA.

I included a back stay out of pre-washed muslin.  I do this on (almost) all jackets and coats.

The jacket and sleeve hems are interfaced as well.  For some reason I thought the hem was 5/8" so I cut strips just slightly larger than that.  Then I read (somewhere) that the hems are 1 5/8".  Oops. 

Here's where the coat stands.  I have to refit the sides and decide on the gun flap before I can go on to the epaulettes.  In the meantime, I tried out button ideas and I think the dark brown buttons make the jacket look timeless.  Problem is:  I only have ten buttons and I need eleven.  I bought the buttons over a year ago and can't find them anymore.  Waaaah. 

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace!

L

Catching Up

Wow, is it October already?  Despite having a busy and stressful September, I did manage to get some sewing done.

Simplicity 2365 - version 2

This one is for you, Terry!  While visiting Toronto, I stopped by Fabricland and picked up several pieces of fantastic fabrics, including this black on white polka dot quilting cotton.  I normally don't gravitate toward polka dots, but after seeing Terry's dotted creations, I thought I'd give 'em a try.  I couldn't be happier. 

In making S2365, I did the same thing as I did the first time I made this top.  The only thing I forgot to mention in my original review was the width of the bias tape.  The tape is 2 inches wide so that I could sew a 1/2-inch seam allowance and have enough to turn under and topstitch.

McCall's 6654

I finally got some photos of me wearing the not-so-easy skirt.  I  really like this look, thought I have to refine the fit of the jacket.  

BeaJay's Scary September Challenge

Although I didn't make anything for the challenge, I did cut out a muslin for a button-front blouse.  I fell behind in putting it together and then got  distracted/discouraged and decided to move onto something else.  My plan to sew and fit a button-front blouse is still in the works, but I don't know if I'll return to it anytime soon.  Despite failing in the challenge, BeaJay was kind enough to mention completing my Indygo Junction coat as part of the process.  Aww.  Thanks BeaJay!

Sarah Liz's One Garment a Month Challenge

To round out the year, I decided to join Sarah Liz's One Garment a Month Sew Along.  While I hope to sew more than one piece a month, I think I can get one done - especially now that things have slowed down around here.

My first garment to enter for this challenge is the Simplicity top (above).  I cut and sewed it in the month of October, so my quota is met. =)  I have plans for two more tops - both knits and from TNT patterns.  I'd also like to make another Kwik Sew jacket.  These three garments will complete the first of my planned fall 6PACs.

That's all I have for now.  More later!  Until then, be well.

L

McCall's 6654 (skirt): Complete

McCall's 6654 with Simplicity 1945

This was supposed to be a quick project.  The pattern has two pieces, both cut on the fold, and a simple waist casing for elastic.  Easy right?  Noooooo.  Of course not.  I had to rip out the serger stitches for the casing twice.  I also had a hard time stitching the ends of the elastic together.  There was a thread nest big enough for a bird.  The truth is, it's still there holding everything together.  And you know what?  I am not picking out these stitches for a third time.  No one will know - except the folks reading this.  But no one else.

I blame Scandal and all you Scandal lovers for bringing me over to the dark side. 

Fabric & Notions

• one yard of grey/black knit houndstooth
• 3/4" no-roll elastic
• serger, coverstitch machine, and thread

Sizing & Alterations

I started with a size 16 (I know, too big) and made my normal full seat adjustment by slashing and spreading the back 1.25".  I started with the larger size because I really didn't feel like making a muslin.  So I figured if it was too big, I could make it smaller and I did.  I ended up taking 1" out of the sides so that I could get the fit I wanted.  Next time, I'll cut between a 12 and 14.

Construction
I serged the sides and "attached" the casing.  I didn't understand the instructions for this part and just did what I thought made sense.  I don't know if the casing is supposed to be on the inside or not, but mine looks like a narrow waistband.  It works and I'm not changing it!  As for the elastic, I cut it to my waist measurement and then adjusted the length after it was inserted into the casing. 

Here the skirt is paired with Simplicity 2422 (left) and Jalie 2559 (right).

This skirt is part of my fall 6PAC plan - which has sort of morphed into a full 12PAC with pretzels.  I don't think I want to sew these colors for long, so I'll do some editing and add in some other colors.  In fact, I think I might try to do an Endless Combinations type of plan.

Do you remember the Endless Combinations contest on PR?  This was one of my favorite contests since it opened the door to building a wardrobe of coordinating outfits.  The idea is to make a garment (or use a previously made garment) and make a second to wear with it.  Then make a third garment to match with either the first and/or second.  And so forth.  Before you know it, you've got a whole wardrobe collection or a capsule of coordinated pairs.  

I don't know why this contest hasn't run in a while.  I think the idea is kinda neat.  Would anyone be interested in doing an EC sew along?  We can space out the time to cover a few months and, perhaps, continue the spirit of the wonderfully inspiring Style the Stash sew along started by Sarah Liz.  We can step into the depths of scary sewing (I'm talking to you collar stand and welt pockets) and join BeaJay in some fearlessness.

I'd love to hear your thoughts.  Anyone interested?

L

Quick Update

Lady Grey Update
I am really close to finishing my Lady Grey coat.  All I need to do is sew on the snaps and attach the pocket bags so that they don't fall beneath the hem.  Finally, I'll take it to the dry cleaner's to give it a good press.  I'm working on a post about sewing the coat, but that will have to wait as work is super busy right now.

Carnival of Skirts
Thanks to everyone who offered encouragement about that crazy Vogue skirt.  I've decided to put it down for now and come back to it.  I really appreciate the feedback and will definitely work on it again. I still intend to complete one skirt for Faye's sew along.  I've cut out a black and white houndstooth skirt and just need to cut the lining.  Hopefully I'll be able to get to it this weekend.

Until next time, be well!

L

Vogue 8426: Skirt (Fitting & Alterations)

As part of Faye's fantastic Carnival of Skirts Sew Along, I've decided to work on some skirts as a way to get my sewjo working again.  I didn't stop sewing completely, but I was impaled by indecision so this sew along popped up at the right time.  On my radar are:  Colette Pattern's Beignet, New Look 6130 and Vogue 8426.

I love the style lines and overall look of Vogue 8426.  Plus, with so many opportunities for delicious topstitching, how can I not love it?  I've had the pattern for a while and after perusing the numerous reviews on PR, I decided to give it a try.

In fitting skirts, I always have to make a 1.25" full seat adjustment.  The alteration is easy to do if the back pattern piece is simple.  The back of this skirt has three pieces (back, middle back, and side back) and all but one of the seams is straight.  Additonally, the skirt's back yoke appears to have a deeper dip.

I had to think about how to make the full-seat adjustment on with these pieces.  First, I made a muslin to see if I even needed the adjustment.  In all of the reviews I read skimmed through, no one mentioned needing this alteration.  As this side view of my muslin shows, I definitely need it.  It's too not extreme, but you can tell that the hem isn't level. 

I pondered for a couple of days on how to make the adjustment.  I figured that the adjustment could be made in one of two places:  at the yoke seam or a couple of inches below the seam.
 
In trying to do the wedge alteration below the yoke seam, I created a hot mess of uneven and difficult-to-true pattern pieces.  I attempted to do the alteration at the black line seen in the picture to the left.  That part wasn't so bad.  I ran into trouble trying to remove the extra width created at the CB from the side seam.  I couldn't get the angle of the side seam correct and didn't feel comfortable with proceeding.  So I scratched that idea and decided to do the adjustment at the yoke seam.


There is nothing scientific about this alteration.  I added 5/8" to the bottom of the yoke, tapering to nothing at the side seam.  I did the same thing to the center and middle back pieces, again, tapering to nothing at the side seam of the middle back (curved piece above).  As you can see I did this right on the fabric, so obviously I'm not that stressed about it!

 

The hem still appears to be off because I haven't attached the yokes.  I am trying to decide if I want one or two rows of topstitching.

That's all I have for now.  Hopefully I'll be able to work on this in the next couple of days.  I have lots of work to do and sewing will likely be put on hold.

Until next time, be well!

L

Progress Updates & Sew Along

Sewing has come to somewhat of a halt due to exams two weeks ago and the increase of things to do as the end of the semester nears (hallelujah). Plus, I was mildly ill after having picked up a cold from one of my students.  He was sniffly, feverish, but said he needed help on his work.  I tried to convince him to take his sick @ss home, but he wouldn't leave.  Needless to say, the transference of germs went without a hitch.  Grrr.  Anyway, on with the updates...


McCall's 6279:  trench dress
I'm almost finished with the dress.  I made the buttonholes and just need to sew on the buttons.  I still haven't decided if I'll keep this garment or not.  The front doesn't want to hang properly.  I'll sew the buttons and try it on one last time.  If I don't like it, I'll harvest the buttons and try the dress again.

Simplicity 2473:  sheath dress
I made the alterations and muslin for this dress.  So far, I'm really pleased with the fit.  Although here are a couple of areas that need a bit of tweaking, I should be able to cut this out of my fashion fabric soon.

Dressapalooza
My dress kick is still in full effect.  I have pulled out even more patterns and assembled more fabric to sew.  I will present more details on this in a future post.

SWAP 2012
Meh. 

Faye's "Starting at the Top" Sew-Along
I love me some Faye-inspired sew alongs.  From 1 Apr to 15 Apr, the goal is to sew tops.  Simple right?  In theory, yes.  In practice, not so much.  I have over 350 patterns (judge me not...lest ye be pattern free) and less than 15 days to sew (given the demands of work and other obligations).  I narrowed my choices down to four patterns (with one back up) and will commit to sewing only one top for the challenge. 

• Simplicity 2365/2447

Both have shoulder princess seams and are patterns that I've tried before.  The front fits pretty well, but the back has too much width.  I'll need to adjust the pattern, but that won't be difficult.  The challenge will come with properly attaching the collar stand.  This could be the task that makes or breaks the garment since I SUCK at collar stands.

• Burda World of Fashion 7-2009-129 and 7-2009-128

Both patterns use the same front and back pieces.  The instructions are super simple thus making the tops fairly quick to construct.  Unfortunately since there are no darts for bust shaping, I am uncertain of how either one of these tops will look on me.  So, I have to decide if I want to invest the time in tracing, cutting, and fitting given the time constraints of the challenge.

• New Look 6648

If all else fails, I know I can cut and sew one of these tops in a flash.  The intended fabric is already laundered, so this should be a no-brainer.

Decisions, decisions!  Hopefully my next post will include a picture of a certain finished linen dress as well as the beginnings of a top for the challenge.  Until next time, be well!

L

Jeans #5: Finished!

After having encountered many crazy issues with this pair, they're now finally complete.  This is the pair that has the cute little crystal design on the back pocket.   It's hard to take a picture of the back and I didn't have time to set up the tripod as I was on my way out last night.

right back pocket

I adore how these jeans fit, even though the denim has at least 25% stretch. This is simply too much for me.  The fly area pulls apart something awful and the waistband is super stretchy - even with interfacing.  I have to wear these jeans with a shirt that is long enough to cover the zipper because it just doesn't look right at all.  It's a shame, too, because I am seriously digging the crystal design!  Were I a more assiduous sewer, I would pick all this shit apart and try the zipper again.  Since I did that four times already, round five is not happening.  Besides, life is too short.  Like my friend Deepika once said, "There will always be more fabric.  It is time we must preserve."  Yeah.  So.  Yeah.  Not happening.  =)

I almost finished with jeans #6.  I just need to work the button hole and sew the hem.  Photos coming soon.

L

2012 SWAP Intentions

A few days ago I mentioned that I was participating in the 2012 SWAP on Stitcher's Guild.  After perusing my pattern and magazine stash, I've finally settled on seven garments that I'd like to sew for the contest.

 

Button-down shirt with collar:  Vogue 1260 (x2)

During the American Sewing Expo, I had an opportunity to meet Sandra Betzina and try on the actual view B (the red & black one) featured on the pattern envelope.  I was pleasantly surprised to see that the shirt (in size D) fit very well.  Although it was a little snug across the bust, cutting the next size up on only the front should fix that.

Fabric:  teal striped cotton shirting; yellow stretch cotton poplin



Vest:  New Look 6914

When I received this brochure from Clarks in the mail, I couldn't help but focus on her outfit.  It's simple, chic, and not too country.  On the inside is a closer shot of the vest.  The vest has front pockets with the welt cut on the bias.  Too cute!  I have a wool houndstooth very close to the one in the picture and have some boots that I think will go nicely with the vest.  If I have the time, I might attempt to make a denim shirt as well.

Fabric:  brown/blue/green/cranberry wool small-scale houndstooth

Top:  McCall's 6078

I made this top over the summer and love it.  I need to adjust the front to minimize the pooling that appears.  I don't think I can eliminate it entirely,  It seems as if everyone who's made this top has this problem to some degree - whether they were full busted or not.

Fabric:  gold metallic knit





Jacket:  Jalie 2559
This pattern is complete in so many ways.  It's fully lined, has welt pockets, separate pieces for the back lining (with pleat), self-fabric sleeve heads, and fabulous instructions.  I've already made my first muslin and alterations to the pattern.  The fit is quite good and only needed a bit of tweaking on the side front panel.  I may or may not make a second muslin (gasp!).

Fabric:  rust coloured or brown wool flannel with cream Bemberg lining

Jeans:  Jalie 2908 (x2)

Two garments can be sewn before the contest's official start date (26 Dec).  I'm sewing my two pairs of jeans as part of the Jeans Sew Along.

Fabric:  very dark blue stretch denim; dark blue non-stretch denim










Trousers:  BWOF 11-2006-102 (x2)
I traced a size 40 and am very happy with the fit.  I compared the front and back crotch curves of the pattern to my sloper and found that not much alteration was needed.  I made two muslins and am confident in cutting out my fashion fabric.  I just have to figure out a way to make the waistband look nice and neat on the inside.  Hmm...

Fabric:  brown wool; gray wool



Skirts:  Colette Patterns 1005 & New Look 6897

These are two returning favourites.  I made them both this summer and loved wearing them. 

Fabric:  gray wool suiting (CP); brown or teal wool solid (NL)







I don't really have a colour palette.  I'm sort of making stuff up as I go along.  I'm really excited about this plan and think I can complete it.

L

It's a Jeans Thing Sew Along

Come one, come all and sew a new pair of jeans! The site is up and can be found here: It's Jeans Thing and will run from 15 Nov to 15 Dec. If you'd like to join, leave a comment here with your email address and I'll add you as a co-author. I don't have a badge because I can't figure out how to make it!


L

Jeans #4 Finished & Sew-Along

As planned, I finished #4 in time for the weekend. These jeans are SOOO comfortable and flattering. I made them tighter than normal (gotta embrace the curves!) and an inch longer so that the hem broke at just the right spot on my shoes. I am loving this pattern and can't wait to get started on the next pair.

Speaking of the next pair, let's sew along together! It's time to Occupy a New Pair of Jeans. I'm thinking we can start on 15 November and end either on 30 Nov or 15 Dec- whatever you choose. Personally, I opt for starting in the middle of next month because I have a lot going on right now and am overwhelmed. Plus, our second midterm exam will be over and I'll have more time to participate fully.

In the meantime, if you'd like to join me, post a comment with your email address. I'll create the site and invite you to be a co-author.

L

Fall Sewing & Lady Grey

Who turned off the heat?? Literally, the outdoor temperature went from a high of 80F on one day to a high of 60F on the next day. Damn northern states. That's what the weather is like in Michigan. It's never a gradual increase or decrease. One day, it's hot. The next day, it's Arctic. Oh well, whatareyagonnado?

Since Fall is upon us, I have switched to fall sewing mode. I've actually been in fall sewing mode for a while, but I guess I'm finally making it official. Since school started for me as well, my sewing time has drastically decreased. I am still putting projects together, but I have to be more diligent with managing my time.

My fall wardrobe colours right now consist of purples, grays, cream, rust, and a soft shade of green. I am hoping to overlap some pieces with a second fall wardrobe. We'll see how that goes.

Anyway, I am looking forward to participating in the Lady Grey Sew Along. I still don't have a fabric picked out, but I've been eying this wool coating on Fabric.com

I am not a fan of pink. At all. Bu, I am loving this nubby fabric. The fabric is described as heavyweight, so I don't know if this is an appropriate weight for the coat.

I could also go with something plain like this wool blend from Fabric.com. Meh.

Decisions, decisions. I think I'll focus on getting the muslin together before I buy fabric.

I need to do some job-related work now. I haven't been feeling well the last couple of days, so I have lots of work to do and need to make the most of the time where I feel okay.

L~

As If I Don't Already Have Enough To Do...

I have two skirts in the works, a cardi wrap, and two muslins for a knit and woven top. To add to that, I have now decided to join the Lady Grey Pattern Sew Along after reading Faye's latest post. I've had this pattern for a couple of months and just adore everything about it. The vintage vibe missed me, but this coat beckons me to make it. If I am able to finish the coat during the sew along, then that's great. Otherwise, it will be good to see everyone's progress and creations.

Are you participating in any sew alongs and if so, which ones?

L